|
|
Post by silverfox on Mar 6, 2021 19:25:05 GMT
What wouldbe the minimum id of an extn pipe to extend a water gauge out from the backhead so that a true level can still be seen in the ghlass?
hope that makes sense!
I am guessing that the id of the glass would be a good start, if so what is the od and id of the gauge glass suitable for 5in loco?
Ron
|
|
|
|
Post by delaplume on Mar 7, 2021 2:45:42 GMT
Hi Ron,
Question for you}---- Why do you want to extend the gauge glass away from the backhead ?........These are delicate enough items to start with and any movement of this nature can only make them more vulnerable to an accidental knock, especially if it is of the long-glass type..
You give the best size to aim for ie}-- to match the I/D of the glass.....A 5 inch gauge loco can either be prototype or narrow gauge so the gauge glass will vary in size according to design...
If you really must do this then try and incorporate a gauge glass protector..
PS}--- Don't use a pipe but a large piece of Bronze duly shaped to give extra support at the base...
Alan
|
|
|
|
Post by delaplume on Mar 7, 2021 3:08:28 GMT
Hi Ron, Question for you}---- Why do you want to extend the gauge glass away from the backhead ?........These are delicate enough items to start with and any movement of this nature can only make them more vulnerable to an accidental knock, especially if it is of the long-glass type.. You give the best size to aim for ie}-- to match the I/D of the glass.....A 5 inch gauge loco can either be prototype or narrow gauge so the gauge glass will vary in size according to design... If you really must do this then try and incorporate a gauge glass protector.. PS}--- Don't use a pipe but a large piece of Bronze duly shaped to give extra support at the base... Alan Sorry----- I forgot to include the following}----- What you are suggesting might be considered a "change of design" with regards to Boiler fittings.....I would suggest therefore that you have a chat with your Boiler Tester for approval before you go any further........Just the action of removal of the gauge glass for normal repairs, cleaning etc. should be mentioned in any event... |
|
|
|
Post by Jim on Mar 7, 2021 3:12:53 GMT
Just to add to Alan's comments, due to the layout of my Burrell's 'back head' I had to arrange the water gauge glass in such a way that it stood out from the frame as can be seen in the photo.
On the third outing I had the gauge glass burst for no apparent reason and it caused quite a bit of excitement too with steam and scalding water going everywhere as I tried to close the shut off taps, as an aside I was wearing gloves something that I think is essential when operating steam engines. In trying to discover the reason for the burst glass I realised that I hadn't fitted the sort of protector Alan recommends because as pressure builds the two copper pipes connecting the guage glass to the boiler are forced apart causing the glass to shatter with dramatic effect. My solution as shown in the second photo was to fit a long U bracket to hold the upper and lower pipes so they couldn't be forced apart. I've had no further problems and still have a couple of spare 'ready to go' gauge glasses just in case.
All the best
Jim |
|
|
|
Post by delaplume on Mar 7, 2021 11:05:36 GMT
Hi Jim, You might like to consider linking the upper and lower arms...This makes it very easy to shut off the gauge glass in a hurry....  |
|
|
|
Post by Jim on Mar 7, 2021 12:48:54 GMT
That's a very worthwhile suggestion Alan and one I had been thinking of doing. A blown gauge glass is quite a dramatic event and being able to close both valves simultaneously lessens the chance of getting scalded by the still open valve as you fumble to close the other.
Jim
|
|
timb
Statesman
Posts: 512 
|
Post by timb on Mar 7, 2021 12:55:40 GMT
Jim, Lovin the photo of the traction engine, any more please??!!
Tim
|
|
|
|
Post by delaplume on Mar 7, 2021 21:02:51 GMT
When taking the SVR Firemans test we had to change a simulated broken gauge glass on a 57XX pannier....admittedly it was a dead loco standing in the yard but real enough non the less........
As well as a Shovel, pick, coal hammer, oiling cans, Dets, spanners, corks and cloth-- one or maybe two spare gauge glasses should be taken with you in your bucket of "goodies" which you have just drawn from the stores when signing on duty... ( perhaps some paraffin and spare wicks for the loco lamps as well )..
Just before entering a tunnel take a note of the water level then shut the gauge off ( Don't want it shattering in there, eh ? )....... and just crack open the firedoors a tad to give some light ..... this is where a single lever is most beneficial...
|
|
|
|
Post by silverfox on Mar 8, 2021 15:24:13 GMT
I am thinking about putting a false backhead on the loco as many others have done on here. Just wanted to be on the safe side with bore size so there are no false ( up or down) levels shown
As i said just at the thinking stage so far. All the fittings will be extended to be fixed to the false backhead
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2021 16:21:20 GMT
Hi Ron
just wondering how far the false backhead will sit off the boiler and can it be made to fit closer?
regards
Pete
|
|
|
|
Post by silverfox on Mar 8, 2021 16:30:34 GMT
Peter
Between .25 and .375 inch.
I don't know what Malcolm Breeze suggested as i haven't ogt the plan!. If Reg of Breeze A1 fame is reading his perhaps he could tell us what glass Malcolnm recommended
|
|
|
|
Post by manofkent on Mar 8, 2021 16:42:14 GMT
Reading this thread reminded me of a "piggy back" water gauge I once read about fitted to a model loco in the USA.
IIRC it was like one water gauge, with another fitted in front if it. The claim was that it kept a better level of the water somehow.
Did I make this up or does anyone else know about this?
John
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2021 16:47:59 GMT
Peter Between .25 and .375 inch. I don't know what Malcolm Breeze suggested as i haven't ogt the plan!. If Reg of Breeze A1 fame is reading his perhaps he could tell us what glass Malcolnm recommended Sorry Ron, what I meant was, what's stopping the false backhead from getting closer? |
|
mbrown
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,719
|
Post by mbrown on Mar 8, 2021 17:53:12 GMT
Reading this thread reminded me of a "piggy back" water gauge I once read about fitted to a model loco in the USA. IIRC it was like one water gauge, with another fitted in front if it. The claim was that it kept a better level of the water somehow. Did I make this up or does anyone else know about this? John LBSC described something like this in The Live Steam Book yonks ago. The idea is, as you say, that the water in the column stays more stable than in the boiler and the gauge glass shows the level in the column. I believe it was a common arrangement on locos in the US. But there is only one glass, not two. Malcolm Malcolm |
|
|
|
Post by silverfox on Mar 8, 2021 19:03:07 GMT
Peter
A rather large fitting for the regulator!
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2021 19:24:59 GMT
Peter A rather large fitting for the regulator! Can the false backhead opening be shaped to go around it, would anyone notice the larger regulator body, could it be dressed to disguise it somehow? The backhead is a pretty busy place, it may not be as noticeable as you may think? Just some ideas sir, I have to do a few mods to mine to get it to fit properly, including grinding most of the rivet heads which stick out too far on the boiler for the false backhead to sit flush with it. Pete |
|
|
|
Post by andyhigham on Mar 8, 2021 19:55:24 GMT
'scuse my ignorance but what is a false backhead?
|
|
|
|
Post by Deleted on Mar 8, 2021 20:36:12 GMT
'scuse my ignorance but what is a false backhead? Evening Andy False is probably the wrong terminology, we are referring to the backhead cladding, or at least I am..  Pete |
|
|
|
Post by silverfox on Mar 8, 2021 20:39:35 GMT
THats the word i was looking for!!!!! Cladding
|
|
|
|
Post by delaplume on Mar 8, 2021 21:02:50 GMT
Sometimes spelt}-------- cleading............but pronounced "Cladding"... Usually a thin steel jacket that surrounds the boiler and backhead...It helps contain the boiler's insulation and gives a nice,smooth surface for the painting, lining-out etc... On the boiler barrel are a series of steel hoops that stand at a short distance away from the boiler and give a base for the cladding to rest upon.....In some areas these are known as "crinolines" for obvious reasons}------ www.google.com/search?client=avg&q=%22crinolines%22  |
|
