Any Dremel users on here?

[silverfox]

Scenario

Had a 4000 for about two years noiw, not overly worked .

Yesterday wasdoingsome sanding od soft solder from some brass sheet with one of the little rotary sander it that fit in the chuck
Suddenly revs dropped and on checking it runs at about 5rpm ( not much more) at the 5k setting
However when i turn to rateup runs like nothing has happened

Could some solder/brass 'dust' have got into it and if that is the problem,what is the best way of gettingit runningsmoothly at low revs?

Any thoughta

[glynmar]

I had the original Dremel model 395 for something like 30 years which was subject to a hard life then it stopped working but I stripped it down cleaned the motor and it kept going for a while but but eventually died. I bought a new 4000 and although it had a lower rev range I could believe how noisy and how much vibration it had compared to the original so I sent it back. If you look at the reviews they are not great as it seems Dremel's are not what they used to be when they were first made in the USA. So I sourced a secondhand good condition Dremel model 395 from ebay not a cheap Chinese copy and after 2 years it is running like new and I am well happy again. Like most things in life everything now is made to make as much profit as possible sacrificing quality. My advice would be find a nearly new Model 395. They hold there price well as those who know Dremels are aware of their quality. I paid £27 plus postage which I think was a bargain considering I paid about £70 for my original 395 all those years ago

[oldnorton]

The 240V Proxxon models have proper bearings and enough grunt to put 3mm drills through steel. I have two of them.

[wink]

Speed control on my Dremel did something similar, it now only runs at full speed. If you're going to replace the tool, buy a Proxxon instead. They're much better made, and the collets are in another league.

[SteveW]

Apr 30, 2021 19:20:09 GMT silverfox said:

Scenario

Yesterday wasdoingsome sanding od soft solder from some brass ...

Perhaps a granny suck eggs thing but I recall getting a very firm debriefing from my old school metalwork teacher. At the time we were making little three sided copper trays with three brass feet soldered on. I still have it 58 years later and still remember the lesson, I haven't lost it.

The key was to remove excess solder using a scraper made from a broken hacksaw blade. My teacher was adamant about not using an abrasive.

I've followed this advice many times since with some success.

As for your Dremmel you might have got a bit of crud in the front bearing which could have seized it an possibly stuffed the electronic controller.

[silverfox]

Steve

Thanks and don't worry about eggs, any info is great

If i can spilt it in two i might give it a strip down,and a blow out with an airline!!

[Gary L]

May 1, 2021 14:17:07 GMT oldnorton said:

The 240V Proxxon models have proper bearings and enough grunt to put 3mm drills through steel. I have two of them.

I have one with a burnt-out motor. Very disappointing, its life was no better than the Lidl unit it replaced. Bearings are better though...

Gary

[JonL]

If its only running at top speed its the speed control potentiometer. The same thing happens in cars when the blower fan only works flat out.

It could have been burned out if it was running hard.

[Gary L]

May 4, 2021 17:57:23 GMT JonL said:

If its only running at top speed its the speed control potentiometer. The same thing happens in cars when the blower fan only works flat out.

It could have been burned out if it was running hard.

No, the motor is burnt out and Kaput. I don’t think I mistreated it particularly, and (if I remember correctly) it cost nearly three times what a Lidl version did, so I wasn’ t impressed. Naturally it was out of warranty. Guess what I replaced it with!

The Lidler has developed a rattly bearing behind the collet, so I’m not promoting that one either, but it is cheap if not cheerful. It us adequate for grinding and polishing which is what I mostly use it for, but not for drilling. The previous Lidler had a feeble thrust bearing, so drilling is obviously something the designers never thought of.

Gary

[SteveW]

Guys,
I have had some success replacing bearings in a couple of the cheaper drill/router type products.

The router/table bought quite cheaply from QVC (not sure whether I bought a router with a free router table or a router table with free router) did stirling service till one day it wouldn't. Turned out to be very well made and for tenner including PnP received a new set of ball bearings and was returned to being useful, doubly so because of the table system.

Access to new ball bearings is quick and easy usually with prompt deliveries.

[Deleted]

Hi Ron

I have been using a Dremel since the early I can't remember when it's so long ago, I agree with other comments about the early models being the best. I'm not sure about today but you used to be able to get these serviced, my first tool required a new speed controller which I believe maybe what's up with yours. alas I don't have the details of where mine was serviced, I was working on Bond and the buyer got it fixed free of charge for me, well free to me, no idea what it cost his budget...

Pete

[wobblebox]

Hi All,

You could try the link below where there is a speed control PCB available for the 4000 :

www.dremel-direct.com/acatalog/service.html

[92220]

I forked out for a 230v Foredom SR flexi drive unit. It is worked hard and often, and is still in perfect working order after around 15 years. It can be fitted with a collet handset or a variety of dental drill handsets. Foredom, in the USA, also sell a chuck stile handpiece that takes up to 5/32" dia drills. Speed control is by foot operated speed control and runs from around 1000 rpm up to 18000 rpm. Shesto Ltd sell the 230v SR flex drive unit for £240, which is the price I paid 15 years ago! Other UK stockists sell the same thing at anything up to £400.00 so you do need to shop around for one of these.

Bob.