Making 1/32 scale A4 corridor tender but need advice .

[goldeneagle]

I would prefer to make my tender tank from 1mm or maybe 1/32" brass sheet for the sides and ends. My loco is made from 1mm thickness plate-work eg cab sides. However, Gresley tenders have a small inward roll along the top.  It curves and then flattens but is generally roughly about 10-15mm radius. Can I accomplish this with that thickness brass sheet? How do I bend it , twice, exactly the same? Second question;  My plan is for the water tank to have two bottom plates, one to have threaded fixing holes to hold the chassis etc and an internal plate that is water-tight. Should the side-sheets overlap the two bottom plates and be butt soldered to them and is it necessary to keep all plate-work at the same thickness?

[borderer]

You can bend thin brass sheet quite easily by hand, but it will work-harden, so may need annealing and bending in stages. As your side plate is a fairly small part, a length of rod of your chosen radius is all you need as a former - even a broom handle might do! Experiment with a bit of scrap material to judge how it will bend. Finger pressure may be sufficient, or it may need gentle persuasion with a light hammer or mallet.

There is no need to use the same thickness plate throughout. Often the bottom plate is made thicker. A double layer isn't necessary - fixing holes can be made watertight with sealant. The usual practice is to reinforce the soldered joints with a continuous brass angle, which also gives you a square corner to work from. Plumber's solder and active paste flux work well for this sort of job.

[fleetbank]

Mar 9, 2024 19:28:11 GMT goldeneagle said:

I would prefer to make my tender tank from 1mm or maybe 1/32" brass sheet for the sides and ends. My loco is made from 1mm thickness plate-work eg cab sides. However, Gresley tenders have a small inward roll along the top.  It curves and then flattens but is generally roughly about 10-15mm radius. Can I accomplish this with that thickness brass sheet? How do I bend it , twice, exactly the same? Second question;  My plan is for the water tank to have two bottom plates, one to have threaded fixing holes to hold the chassis etc and an internal plate that is water-tight. Should the side-sheets overlap the two bottom plates and be butt soldered to them and is it necessary to keep all plate-work at the same thickness?

I made both corridor with the half round beading at the top and the later non corridor without beading in Gauge 1 back in the 1980's. I think I made the latter with integral bend but may have added it as a separate piece on the former due to the beading, photos seem to indicate this. Tender base would have been much thicker sheet to support the hand pump with angle screwed in place to attach the sides to, all soldered of course. Never used a separate tank bottom.