When to Paint

[mott]

Hi, Guys I was meandering through the General Chat room and read up on the "threadlocking " string.I think JJ started it and in course said he would be dissambling his Brit for painting after testing on air. That set me wondering what is the right time to paint. For my 14XX I painted the frames and other solid metal as I went on, did the air tests with everything fine and then painted and completed installation. The snag was that the air tests did not reveal problems which only started to show when steaming started. Since then I had the boiler off 3 times and resprayed it twice and generally as I ferretted around sorting these problems all my nice paint work got soiled and chipped. My conclusion is to leave final painting until the loco has run on steam and done a few circuits of the track. I did wonder about steaming using a blow lamp in the firebox to avoid the coal dirt getting on the finely finished surfaces but you need a rolling road to do that and getting a supply of air to the blowlamp is not too easy.I would certainly prime the metal but leave the top coating 'til the loco is an established runner. Incidentaly I painted in cellulose and very glad I did because it allowed respraying very quickly and easily with rapid hardening of the finished coating.The paint came from our automotive suppler and they made up spray cans to the sample colour provided.Not what the traditionalist would do, I know but very effective. Mott

[Jason]

Hi Mott

I was very interested to see that you have used automotive paint as that is what I am considering for my Black 5!!! I have already purchased enough paint from Precision paint to do the job, but I am more experienced with spraying auto paint, plus if I need to touch up any part I know I can get any supplier to mix up a batch of say Ford or Vauxhall black paint at any time in the future with no hassle.
My two queries are, does anybody know which automotive black is closest to BR black; I suppose it is much of a much ness!!!!
The other question is the smoke box, I have got mat black but it seems to be difficult to keep clean, so I was considering either painting it gloss black like the rest of the engine which I have seen a lot of Black 5’s with or maybe a satin black, has anybody got any suggestions?
Also like you said I am not going to paint the engine until it has run for a season to allow any teething problems to be sorted, but I am sure it will run with no hassle straight from the box !!!

Thanks

Jason

[Phil Sutton]

Hi Jason.I should try satin black.I have used it on the frames and trailing wheels of 1437,and it looks fine.
Precision paints make a reuseable spray can,powered by butane,and it makes a first class job.Not used it yet myself,but intend to when I get onto painting the bodywork.Apparently the gas causes millions of tiny bubbles in the paint,but as they burst,it makes a really smooth finish.(saw the thing demo'ed at Donnington,a year or so back.) ;D

Phil

[mott]

Phil, that's an interesting idea I hadn't heard about. I assume you would be spraying enamel though could it be used for cellulose as well? Mott

[Donald G]

Hi Phil,
Reading your post has reminded me that I purchased one of those butane propelled spray canisters, but, to date I haven't used it, so I am curious as to how people who have used it find the results. I am shortly starting to paintng my standard class 2 tank loco, and I have used aerosol cans in the past, mainly satin black. If the spray canister is a goer, then I can get suitable paint from the same place as Mott.
Your, or anyone elses comments would be appreciated.

Regards Donald

[Phil Sutton]

Hi Donald & Mott,the results of the butane spray can were really impressive,the finish would do justice to a professional.Precision Paints goes off fairly quickly,but cellulose is really fast.You must apply it in severalthin coats rather than one thick one or you get runs.The way to get really smooth finishes from a spray can,I find is to pick warm weather,no dust, and, warm the cans up first.This also applys to spraying in cold weather.I keep the cans in a bucket of boiling hot water,and keep shaking them and putting them back in the warm water every minute or so.It works,but dry the cans before spraying,don't want water every where!!! ;D

Phil

[Donald G]

Hi Phil, Thanks for that, I remember now, when I had a Fireball sailing dinghy, I used to warm the varnish tin in a tub of boiling water to help it to flow evenly, so perhaps the same principal applies. Will hopefully try it out soon, although I have now gone off at a tangent, and started to machine my cast iron cyinders and valvechests, so really messy at the moment.

Cheers, Donald