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Post by gilesengineer on Jan 6, 2008 18:01:31 GMT
Thanks to those people who were kind enough to offer constructive help when I was asking for existing drawing information for this, when I asked I thought people might be interested in this - my niece's (probably long term) project. Having worked with 7 1/4" and full size drawings, the result has been this. The brief is for an accurate looking practical/easy build. The frames are laser cut from 8mm, with stretchers in 8 and 10mm, all cut with secret slot and tabs, which ensure squareness, accuracy and speed of assembly. This lot was five hours from raw laser cuttings to fully welded and primed.
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waggy
Statesman
Posts: 747
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Post by waggy on Jan 6, 2008 20:10:24 GMT
Hello Giles,
What type of welding did you use and was there any distortion when the frame cooled?
Waggy.
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Post by gilesengineer on Jan 6, 2008 21:13:58 GMT
Hi Waggy,
It was MIG welded (200amps) into recessed slot-and-tab - really easy. There's no reason why one couldn't stick weld (180 amp or so).
There's been no distorsion, as all the stretchers (wth their tabs) held in all square, and then with sequential welding to keep it balenced - all done - no problem. Then just dress the welds off flush and job done. (the welds are recessed, so there's no reduction in strength.)
All the best,,
Giles
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Post by chris vine on Jan 11, 2008 22:22:25 GMT
Hi Giles,
Looks terrific. I understand the tabs but don't quite see what you mean by recessed slots. Do they not go right throught the thickness of the material? How do you do them?
Chris.
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Post by gilesengineer on Jan 11, 2008 23:45:51 GMT
Hi Chris,
The slots do go right through the plate, but the tabs do not, and have a varied profile so as to allow maximum penetration with the welding - I'll get a drawing up to demonstrate - but effectively, the tab has a concave tongue (in plan) of from 6mm at each end, to about 1mm at the centre. The weld therefore penetrates both slot and tab, and fills the remaining void, allowing you to grind the weld back flush to the surface without losing any strength.
All the best
Giles
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Post by gilesengineer on Jan 12, 2008 9:16:12 GMT
Drawing showing my 'secret slot and tab' method. It gives you a full penetratration weld, whilst remaining invisible. Very easy with laser profiling!
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Myford Matt
Statesman
There are two ways to run a railway, the Great Western way, and the wrong way.
Posts: 621
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Post by Myford Matt on Jan 12, 2008 15:23:55 GMT
Excellent work - are you going to make the boiler too?
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simonwass
Part of the e-furniture
Cecil Pagets 2-6-2 of 1908. Engine number 2299. Would make a fascinating model....
Posts: 472
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Post by simonwass on Jan 12, 2008 22:14:21 GMT
Excellent work - are you going to make the boiler too? You have to be class 1 coded for boilers and use special steels, I'm an expert amature at welding (tig, mig, stick & gas) but I wouldn't dare do a boiler. I have done the class 1 course at work but was not tested, its nice to know you can but a pain knowing you can't! Giles, how do you weld the tabs, just flow over in 1 pass?
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Jan 13, 2008 9:24:26 GMT
Very nice job indeed , with this standard of work you will end up with an excellent engine . congratulation and good luck.
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Post by gilesengineer on Jan 13, 2008 12:14:59 GMT
Thank you all very much - though I'd like to point out that it was my niece who did the welding (under her fathers supervsion).
Yes, Simon. The weld was done in one pass, with plenty of textbook weaving - making very sure she got propper penetration on the tab. Any slight depressions after the weld (and there were only a couple) were gone over again (just to give a clean surface after grinding.
No, I don't do boilers either..... I've just ordered a boiler for my own loco from Wayne Bell, who did a lovely job on 'Alice's boiler a few years ago. Doubtless Katie will coerce some of the Bluebell Boiler chaps into doing the welding on hers! (She's a Passed Cleaner there, and occasionally gets to drive their full size 9F).
I believe she's taking the frames to Ally Pally on the 10 1/4" stand next week.
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Post by spurley on Jan 13, 2008 14:20:10 GMT
Oh Katie from the Bluebell, it's a small world!! She's a popular member of the Loco dept. Was she about when the 9F was running?
Cheers
Brian
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Post by gilesengineer on Jan 13, 2008 15:47:20 GMT
Hi Brian,
Yes - I believe she was! I told her that she ought to do a nice little 0-4-0, with not a lot of wheels and rods - but oh no.... a 9F or nothing! Still, I'd have been the same (though I wouldn't tell her that....)
G
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Post by mostlyharmless on Jan 14, 2008 21:56:20 GMT
Well . . . 'Uncle' and Father always said One should start at the top! If you're going to build an engine, It's much better to build a proper one!! We're hoping to get the wheels cast this year, Giles is producing a drawing and Adrian Grimmett (engineers emporium) has agreed to CNC machine a pattern from the drawing when complete. Adrian also has an existing cylinder casting which we think will be suitable.
The frames will indeed be at Ally Pally this weekend - please come and say 'hello'! Many thanks to my marvellous Uncle for pandering to this whim of mine.
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Post by gilesengineer on Jan 15, 2008 17:52:17 GMT
Well Katie m'dear, you can take me to the bar at Ally Pally and buy me a beer..... It's worth pointing out that this loco is to 2 3/8" scale. Unlike the smaller gauges, 10 1/14" has various common scales; 2 3/16" - just about true scale. Many earlier models were built to this, but people feel they might as well be bigger! 2 1/4" - a good compromise 2 3/8" - a serious engine, that reads as scale, but the extra size is really useful... (scale gauge 4'- 04"). Dave Wiseman's 'Duchess' is to this scale 2 1/2" - bigger again, but equates to 00 - about scale gauge 4'-01")
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Post by chris vine on Jan 18, 2008 23:55:30 GMT
Hi Giles,
I would not have realised what a difference there was in the scales you mention, just from the numbers. The picture tells a different story though.
My what a groovy looking dude! Chris.
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Post by ausdan on Jan 19, 2008 2:41:35 GMT
talking abt scales, Im building a Phamton which I believe is 1/8 scale also as known as 1.5".... how do those 2 figures relate ?
I was born with Metric, taught metric, live in a Metric society ... but don't get this one
1/8th = 1" or 1 foot or 3.175 = 25.4 mm
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steam4ian
Elder Statesman
One good turn deserves another
Posts: 2,069
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Post by steam4ian on Jan 19, 2008 3:50:54 GMT
G'day Ausdan.
I grew up with inches and now work metric. Firstly, there are 12 inches (12') to the Foot (1'). So a for 1.5" to 1' scale the model would be 1/8th full size. This is the same as 3.175 = 25.4 mm. BTW 1/8" to the foot, a common drawing scale is 1/96; near enough to 1/100 for general purposes.
Some of our older colleagues and most Americam brothers are still stuck in the inch/foot era.
regards, Ian
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Post by jamesb on Jan 19, 2008 23:25:55 GMT
Greetings mostlyharmless/gilesengineer,
I saw your main frames today, I have to say I was extremely impressed. I noticed another 9F chassis at the show, I think welding is the way forward, the amount of time you saved by welding must be immense!
regards,
James
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Post by jamesb on Feb 1, 2008 20:39:41 GMT
Looks like I killed this thread with my first ever posting...
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Feb 1, 2008 21:54:49 GMT
Or second?
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