|
|
Post by ausdan on Feb 1, 2008 22:32:59 GMT
G'day Ausdan. I grew up with inches and now work metric. Firstly, there are 12 inches (12') to the Foot (1'). So a for 1.5" to 1' scale the model would be 1/8th full size. This is the same as 3.175 = 25.4 mm. BTW 1/8" to the foot, a common drawing scale is 1/96; near enough to 1/100 for general purposes. Some of our older colleagues and most Americam brothers are still stuck in the inch/foot era. regards, Ian its all clear now , 12' divide by 8 (1/8th scale)= 1.5" , now I can move on to the next thing that puzzles me  |
|
steam4ian
Elder Statesman
One good turn deserves another
Posts: 2,069
|
Post by steam4ian on Feb 1, 2008 22:33:40 GMT
G'day James. You are right regarding the work saved, the down side is the possibility of distortion. Traditionally model frames seem to have been built the same way as prototypes, right down to separate horn guides. Part of the reason was that old timers did not have access to welding gear (in the home shop). I like Barry Potter's no nonsense of his Blow Fly which uses 3/8 (10mm) frames welded to stretchers and the horn slots directly milled into the frame. I compare this simplicity with Sweat Pea which is a fastener suppliers paradise. But I have come across a Blow Fly where the builder bolted the frames to the stretchers, concerned about distortion. Each to his own. If I get no response James it is no longer your "fault" that the topic died.  Regards, Ian |
|
|
|
Post by gilesengineer on Feb 4, 2008 18:45:10 GMT
My profuse apologies James - I hadn't meant to be so rude - I rather took my eye off the ball! Welding is certainly the way forward for the larger stuff - 7 1/4" up - and possibly even 5"..... It is a slight change in culture though, and will never really help those fine engineers who are aiming to rivet and bolt a true replica of a full size beast. It is, however, brilliant for a quicker build - suffice to say the photos show 4 or five hours workshop time as opposed to god-knows-how long doing it the conventional way! (...a combination of CAD, laser cutting and welding.) Of equally important merit is the cost factor - those 9F frames - 8 ft long, stretchers and buffer beams cost just under £250 for the lot..... it makes for a comparatively very cheap loco - I reckon my niece will spend between £8 and £10K for the finished engine. (say £4,500 for the boiler, and a fair bit on all those wheels....) More information on this sort of working is on my website - www.gilesfavell.seriouslyinternet.com/Giles%20index.htmSorry again for missing your post! All the best, Giles |
|
|
|
Post by chris vine on Feb 4, 2008 19:47:27 GMT
Hi Giles,
What a lovely website you have put together.
some hours will be spent there!!
many thanks
Chris.
|
|
|
|
Post by gilesengineer on Feb 4, 2008 20:24:00 GMT
Thank you very much indeed Chris! I hope people find it useful (I found it very difficult to get any information on 10 1/4".....)
All the best,
Giles
|
|
paul
Member
Posts: 8
|
Post by paul on Feb 7, 2008 17:28:12 GMT
I know nothingh about gauges and next to nothing about steam engines but I'll second Chris's comments - great website |
|
|
|
Post by metalmickey on Apr 24, 2008 22:04:53 GMT
Thats what I call large scale. The diagram re different 2"+ scales was excellent. What is the state of play now? Are there any more photo's? Is there a website?
Mike
|
|
|
|
Post by gilesengineer on Apr 25, 2008 18:54:20 GMT
Thank you very much Mike, but I'm having real trouble getting stuff on to the web-site at the moment - I'll update it as soon as it'll let me in!
(I dare say Katies' 9F will be many years in the making though...
We are getting a friend to make a pattern for the drivers at the moment - CNC'd from a steel blank!)
All the best,
Giles
|
|
