paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Mar 12, 2008 22:05:41 GMT
Here's the parts I've made so far for my 'build it in a week clapper valve' engine. The plans call for the cylinder to be soft soldered to the frame but I don't really want to do that. The cylinder is made from 1/2" brass with a 10mm bore so there isn't really enough substance to drill/thread holes to attach it from behind the frame. The only thing I can come up with is some form of yoke as used on some vertical twins but that will probably look a bit odd. Does anyone have any suggestions? ("bin it and build a normal engine" is not allowed!) Nice looking connecting rod huh?!
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Post by dickdastardly40 on Mar 12, 2008 23:12:06 GMT
Why don't you want to soft solder it? Superglue if not being steamed but once you've finished your boiler I'd guess you'll want to.
If you were to drill and tap towards the edge of the square section say diagonally top and bottom, would you have enough material not to encroach on the bore?
By yoke do you mean a strap around the outside of the cylinder? You could bracket with some L shaped stock, difficult to suggest without knowing what the resto for the design is like.
Best Always
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Post by baggo on Mar 12, 2008 23:27:58 GMT
Hi Paul,
Is it that you don't want to solder the cylinder or that you don't want it permanently fastened to the base?
As Al suggests, why not use some brass angle soldered to the cylinder and then bolt that to the base to hold the cylinder? Or solder a wider flat plate to the back of the cylinder and bolt through that. That would move the cylinder out from the base by the thickness of the plate though.
John
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Post by circlip on Mar 13, 2008 6:54:35 GMT
Mamods cylinder tubes were all soft soldered on to the saddles.
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Mar 13, 2008 8:49:33 GMT
I wanted to avoid soldering for a few reasons really; first it never looks great (IMHO), secondly I'm concerned about the heat distorting the cylinder as it's rather thin and finally I'd need to make a gap (it lies flat on the frame as shown) for the solder to give it any strength.
I think some form of bracket is favourite but I hadn't thought of using a piece of angle....
Thanks all for the input.
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steam4ian
Elder Statesman
One good turn deserves another
Posts: 2,069
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Post by steam4ian on Mar 13, 2008 9:36:46 GMT
G'day Paul
I have/have not silver soldered cylinders to the slippers. The big thing is not to clamp too hard, I have spoiled a cylinder that way. It may help to put a steel insert in the cylinder while you silver solder it. Soft solder which melts well below the temperature for hard solders and the brass softening temperature should be mo problem. To control the spread use the methods used for silver solder or use solder paste.
Regards, Ian
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Mar 13, 2008 10:27:38 GMT
Thanks Ian but I think I'm going for a simple bracket like so:- Probably have to machine/file a lump of metal to do the job though as I don't think I've got any angle >3mm thick to accommodate the screws (I really need to get some smaller screws or sub 3mm thread-cutting gear!)
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Post by dickdastardly40 on Mar 13, 2008 11:28:30 GMT
As I mentioned above have you considered this method, you might not have to go as deep if you stud the holes, bottom out the stud or loctite them and put a nut on the other side to tighten. Best Always
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Post by circlip on Mar 13, 2008 11:58:31 GMT
To soft solder without getting it all over, you tin one face of the the cylinder, then wipe off the excess, clean and flux the backplate and place the bits together in their final positions and reheat. If necessary, put a weight on top of the cylinder to stop it moving. Much the same as soldering split bronze or brass bushes together for boring
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Mar 13, 2008 13:02:42 GMT
Thanks chaps. Al there's not really room to do that (that's how I did 'Scotty' my last engine). Circlip, I'm fine with soldering technique I just don't want to use it for the reasons given, thanks anyway though.
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Post by havoc on Mar 19, 2008 18:42:52 GMT
Soldering it together like Cirklip outlines is the way to go Paul. Better learn to do it well on a little engine like this than when you have no other option and failure is going to cost you a lot. Just don't try to move it before it is really cold enough and make sure you tin the correct side to start...
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Mar 21, 2008 20:06:54 GMT
Soldering it together like Cirklip outlines is the way to go Paul. Better learn to do it well on a little engine like this than when you have no other option and failure is going to cost you a lot. Just don't try to move it before it is really cold enough and make sure you tin the correct side to start... Havoc, I've got no worries with silver or soft soldering it's just that I prefer a mechanical means where possible
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