14XX Tank Loco.General Comment

[mott]

Interesting to see several examples of the 14XX on display at the Midland Model Engineering Exhibition, one without its Dome cover which suggests that it is the latest version as this was delayed when Kit 12 was issued recently.Also saw a Winson version (Phil Sutton's) which was well advanced. A couple of points noted were the very flimsy fire hole doors which I have just completed from Kit 9. I reckon they will not stand up to regular use and they don't seal at all well to the fire hole so will admit gales of air which may not be a good thing. I saw one model which had a different door , one piece hinged of the side so some one has reached the same conclusion and changed it completely.
I am starting Kit 10 which begins with the insertion of 100s of rivets, all decorative and fixed with loctite - a real pain of a job. Once you put the minute blob of loctite under the head of the rivet it is disinclined to seat fully home and has to be knocked in with the rivet snap but the rivets along the side tanks are so close together that the rivet snap wont fit on the rivet head, so some other means has to be found to get them to seat properly.(Hammer!)
Other than the above, progress has been good and everything fits together, the cast iron piston rings seem fine and the chassis has run on air for a couple of hours.
Is there anyone out there putting together the current kit? How are you getting on? Mott

[heyfordian18]

Hi there Mott,
My 14xx was on the Northern Association stand at the Midlands Exhibition, and as you say, without the dome cover (or top feed and tool boxes) I have visited Modelworks this afternoon, they are only a few miles from where I live, and the good news is that the overdue castings for the dome, top feed and toolboxes are now in stock. No sign of the guard iron replacements yet though. Castings should be in the post next week according to Dean.
I have steamed my 14xx twice now, and the firehole door was not a problem. I found that I had to leave the door slightly open when running, to cool the fire enough keep the pressure below 90psi, and not waste the water! The effect of the blast is quite strong.
I gave up with loctite on those pesky rivets for the sides. I would recommend a broach to clear the hole enough to seat the rivet, a small blowlamp, soft solder, 8-10 at a time and then cut off close to the surface and finish with a file.

[Phil Sutton]

Hi Heyfordian,you echoed my thoughts on glued in rivets.However,I just countersunk the holes slightly,then used a resistance soldering unit to fasten the d**n things in!I have adapted a pair side cutters to cut the riit stems off almost flush.Saves on filing too.Mind you,I got a bit brutal with those on the rear of the bunker,and attacked them with an angle grinder - I was in a bit of a rush that day!
Bws Phil

[heyfordian18]

Hi Phil
I tried my resistance soldering unit first, but even on max output it was not up to the job.
Regards

[Phil Sutton]

Hmm.Strange,that.I must admit that thr RSU took some coaxing to work.I used mine at max output,inserted some rivits,then,holding them in place with a piece of wood,applied some flux,and then put the carbon of the rsu on the tail of the rivet,then turned on the power.You may have to let the carbon glow!The wires get quite warm,so let the rsu cool down for a bit before you do another batch.Then,invert the work peice,and go over the rivet heads again,pushing down firmly.This will ensure the solder flows properly and the rivet is firmly seated against the tank-side,bunker,whatever.
It has worked for me,anyway.

Bws Phil

[heyfordian18]

I tried the RSU because I liked the idea of pushing the rivet head against the panel to get a good fit. The carbon certainly did glow, but the flexible leads got too hot too quickly, and it did not seem worth buying heavy duty leads when the blowlamp was at hand.
Regards

[Phil Sutton]

I wonder why it worked for me and not for you?Whose make of rsu is it?

Phil

[heyfordian18]

Now that's a good question! No label on the box, and I can't lay my hands on the instruction sheet, (or much else since I tidied up and rearranged the workspace in the back room). Bought it at a GOG meeting in Reading a few years back. Label on the front sockets go up to 4.5 volt. Is your unit more than this perhaps?
regards.

[Phil Sutton]

Mines a Graskop(?)but there are no voltages marked on it any where,so i CAN'T HELP YOU THERE.

Phil

[dscott]

Dear All,
Very interesting comments on the 1400, I have one great thankyou for this engine when it first came out. It, or she put me back in touch with simpler engines and inspired me to design and keep on working out things for her older sister which is the 517 class. A lovely simple engine just as they were converted from saddle tanks and having side plates bolted in place with a few bolts. saves on loctited rivets. Lovely open cab and a bunker that should only take several evenings work.
I have driven a Winston model and they are superb once all the problems have been sorted out. Keep them in polished brass, painting unless grit blasted is a nightmare. This is true in any model. My Gemma just sat there and blew smoke rings on her first outing. But after Fred Dibnah signed her photo she was a different engine. (re-working the valve events helped)
David Scott.
From the 61XX builders page.