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Post by rogerdennis on Jan 5, 2007 14:01:48 GMT
Have recently acquired a Winson 1400 Class kit - 95%+ complete and 'assembled'.
I was very pleased to find this site and have read the various threads together with other articles in Turnout etc.. Many of these talk of differences between the various batches produced by Winson (and indeed ModelWorks).
My kit has a boiler certificate no 133 dated May 1999 and the instructions for Kit 1 are headed October 1998. From which batch is my model?
It might be useful if anyone knows to list the production dates of all batches.
I mentioned 'assembled' as although together it has never been used (or probably even tested). One of the first things I came across whilst dismantling were the side tanks. These do not appear to be watertight. I can't see any mention in the instruction of anything other than screwing them together. Have other builders sealed these in some way or even soldered them?
I am currently preparing the boiler for a 'proper' test.
I think that's enough for now. But I am sure there will be other questions!
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sjtown
Active Member
Posts: 38
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Post by sjtown on Jan 5, 2007 19:44:58 GMT
Congratulations... I think!  Side tanks in my opinion where never really thought about when holding water was brought into the design. Loose rivets will leak, as well as screw holes and of course where the back edge buts up against the the side... literally butts up, hence sealing of some kind is essential! Mine are sealed with various compounds, including some white-tack stuff that goes hard, silicon and solder....this worked fine but seeing as its now in pieces again being painted and paint stripper has removed some of it, I will need to seal it up again when done. It may sound like a bit of a mess but I'm not bothered as it wont be seen and it does the job, plus after spending hours on it, looks inside the tanks are the least of my worries. I know you will have many more questions, but I would be interested to hear or see what your pistons and bores are like, plus I would check the the stays across the top of the firebox are straight where the regulator goes through, as Ive heard some people have bent there's down to get it through.  Hope yours doesn't turn out as "tricky" as mine. ;D Steve |
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Post by rogerdennis on Jan 10, 2007 14:02:35 GMT
Steve,
Thanks for the info.
I will try - at some stage to solder my tanks - but that is someway down the line, unless I need a diversion!
I have not opened the cylinders yet - not plucked up the courage. I have read somewhere about oval bores. Will let you know what I find.
On the boiler front, I have stripped this down and got some blanking plugs as I intend to initially get the boiler approved at twice working pressure. Following your comment, I checked, and yes, I do have bent cross stays. I will give the boiler as much of a test as I can, even if I have to external restrain the firebox wrapper in order to check for any other leaks. Depending on how this goes I might need to look at installing additional cross stays (at a lower level).
Do you know / have you heard of boilers with bent stays withstanding a 2x test?
Thanks again
Roger
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sjtown
Active Member
Posts: 38
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Post by sjtown on Jan 10, 2007 22:57:54 GMT
Roger, Boiler wise, from what I once heard from one of the boiler testers at the local club a message was sent out from 'The North' about this issue, they advised that boilers shouldn't not be tested as obviously its rather dangerous for them to be bent. As far as I could see on mine they are fine and when I actually had it tested (2x) know one asked about anything, so as longs your happy to try testing it and the tester doesn't know of this issue it you may get it through! My bores as you may have read were like ploughed fields and also turned out to be oval when we had them machined and cast iron rings made. I expect your pistons and bores to be 'as factory' so I would suggest you have them honed and polished and get cast iron rings made, well saying that basically anything that gets rid of the idea of having Rubber O-rings on ruff metal! The O- rings will last a couple of runs before they need replacing, obviously depending on the quality of your bores, and eventually steam will just bypass and go straight up the chimney. While am on that subject of steam bypass you may get times when the steam bypasses the valve's as they don't always sit properly. Opening and closing the regulator sometimes moves them back into position creating the necessary seal, or if in doubt hit it with a hammer - Ive got ModelWorks Valves in mine (cast iron, not brass, with smaller lap Also the surface for the valve movement on each cylinder was also machined flat at the same time as the pistons being sort and some more steam holes were also drilled to increase steam flow as they thought it was to restricted.... Anyway more detailed stuff is in the 'problem lists' thread as it was all fresh in my mind back then! If you want any pics of my original bores and other stuff let me know! Steve |
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Post by migman1 on Mar 6, 2010 10:33:23 GMT
in 1999 there were probably 4 boilermakers at winson of which iam one. all the boilers were tested to twice the working pressure, sometimes the stays were bent deliberatly to avoid obstructions, i know they shouldnt but should be no problem at working pressure.
best of luck
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