Zinctec (Zinc plated steel)

[Jason]

I Received kit 2 today of the ModelWorks Duchess. They have chosen to construct the tender from zinctec, which is a zinc plated steel. They say it has several advantages, an example being it does not rust and is widely used in the manufacture of washing machine drums. Is is far easier to form to complex shapes, and also allows the paint to adhere to it better. They say this will also allow the use of water tank sealant and remove the operation of soft soldering the tank. I am interested in hearing peoples views on this and also if it is possible to solder Zinctec?

Thanks

Jason

[waggy]

Jason,

Yes you can soft solder zinc plated steel. You need to use an active flux though, nasty stuff!

One of my loco's has a tender tank made from galvanised steel, up to press I've had no problems. This was soldered up using "Bakers Fluid" as flux. I washed the assembly with Sodium Bicarbonate solution and then liquid soap. You MUST make sure the flux residue is removed.

I've tried the paste form of flux, this leaves a greasy residue which isn't that easy to get rid of, especially in tight corners.

Good luck,

Waggy.

[pannierstan]

Hi Jason I am a gas engineer by trade and find after many many years of using fluxes that LACO is a good flux you might want to try.
Its not exactly self cleaning like Powerflow is but 'cleans as you heat' and is fairly easy to remove the residues.

Stan

[locoworksnorth]

Hello fellow kit builders,

I have mixed feelings about plated steel, yes it does seem to have some advantages. I have always soft soldered all my tenders.. and side tanks. Paint can be a problem with brass, but etch primer sorts that.
I don't have a problem with the zink plated steel, the full size one isn't brass. But I do want it very waterproof. The steel may actually be stronger to sit on.
However, personally I prefer the tender in brass... so..... I rung modelworks. The result is this, the production, I was told, is 50. If more than 10 of us particularly want a brass tender then Modelworks will make available, at cost, brass kits (you will have to keep your std kit as spares)
The cost will be £300.
So if you want a brass one.. there's your option.
I made the assumption it would be brass because they always have been, thats all.
I do find it quite remarkable that they are prepared to make a brass one just because someone like me has asked, even it it does cost me an extra £300... in for a penny.......
happy building
locoworks

[Jason]

Hi Locoworks,

nice to hear from you . When MW gave you the price of £300 was that just the tender which i think is expensive , or was that the tender and the boiler cladding and anything else you would expect to be brass?

Jason

[waggy]

Jason,

I've been reading the input regarding galvanised steel in the general chat forum. Not put my oar in, don't see the point.

As I said above, I've used galvanised sheet with no problems. It's easier to work than brass, doesn't distort as much when heated to solder and paint does stick.

It's your engine, your decision!

Waggy.

[locoworksnorth]

Hi,

I suppose its just the tender, but give them a call and check. I would prefer the boiler steel clad..... as waggy very rightly says , the paint sticks better.... and that bit gets hot !
locoworks

[Jason]

Hi Locoworksnorth,

Thats quites interesting, what happens if the insulation between the boiler and the cladding becomes damp, will that not cause the cladding to start to corrode from the inside over time? I could quite possible be wrong though.

Jason

[paultomlinson]

Hi Locoworksnorth

Did you ever get a brass kit for the tender, I for one would be interested.

Brass is really good for boiler cladding. I use a two part etch primer by ICI on brass, sticks like .......... to a ........

Paul.