KIT 11

[paultomlinson]

Barely a week has gone by and kit 11 lands on my doorstep, well done MW. The components look first class and I'll report later how it all fits together. This time MW are using cast iron rings on both the piston and bobbins, far better than the original idea that Winsons used(split brass collar effectively). Even bronze slippers for the crossheads, what next!
I have asked MW (Dean) a couple of minor questions regarding this kit and I hope to report on these issues shortly.
Paul.

[duchessmike]

Its going to be a busy month, Kit 12 is due soon as well, then we'll have all the cylinders and associated motion.
Tender, frames, bogies and wheels were easy; now it getting serious!
Have fun,
Mike

[baggo]

Any chance of any photos? I was following Jason's website until he stopped updating it.

John

[paultomlinson]

I have spent the day in the workshop working on kit 11, these are my findings so far. This is not meant to criticise MW as they have done a good job with this kit, however I intend to modify parts as I go along.
1 valve rod, the threaded part of the shaft is too short by approx 1/8". Simple job to extend the thread or use a brass washer.
2 the front cylinder end covers need to be eased to clear the piston valve sleeves.
3 also on the valve rod I have milled a flat on the rod where it runs in the end cover to help lubrication etc.
3 Inside crossheads, I didn't like the "square" boss on these so I have turned them down and fitted a polished sleeve on the "round" boss.
4 Similarly on the outside crossheads, the silver soldering of the bosses to the head was a little on the heavy side so I turned these down and fitted polished sleeves as well.
5 I don't like the idea of screwing the piston rod in/out of the crosshead to get the correct length. I have turned a square edge on the piston rod and fitted all the way home into the crosshead. When we get the connecting roda I'll adjust the length by screwing the piston in/out and securing with loctite and a grubscrew..
6 Getting one step ahead I have started turning some Aluminium end covers for the outside cylinders.
7 The exhaust assembly is still in the pickle bath trying to clean it up.
Paul.

[vapor]

Hi Paul,
You stated in your email that you had left the exhaust manifold in the pickle solution, it is my understanding this is to both clean and de-flux, is this correct, secondly do you use a bought in brand or mix your own, if so what do you use, Ian

[paultomlinson]

Hi Ian

I'm of the old school using sulphuric acid but if you read other threads on this forum you will see that there are a number of suitable pickle solutions. The pickle has removed excess flux etc from the exhaust manifold now it's into the shotblaster before etch priming and painting.

Paul.

[vapor]

Thanks Paul,

I have gone through a number of threads on hear and see there a number of recipes so due to the problems locating some sulphuric acid I have ordered a couple of kilos of citric acid and see how that goes, I have already cleaned the exhaust manifold using some tile cleaning fluid that seems to have cleaned most of the crud off but I do not have access to a blasting cabinet at the moment but thats on my list of things to get when I get my new workshop, but thats another story ;D

[vapor]

Did everyone get part number DU51013 with kit 11 ?? I have spoken to MW and they are sending out another, have MW been informed about the other issues on kit 11??

[duchessmike]

Hi Vapor,
DU51013 has been stuck on DU51035, but MW have not included it on the '35 build listing.
I wonder if they will send you the bit, or another '35!
Mike

[vapor]

Thanks for the info Mike,
Well I guess someone will pick that up at MW, I was just sorting the P&F list at the weekend and could not find that bit, now I know why.
Whe I spoke to Isobel yesterday she said she would put one in the post so we shall see, I will phone however and inform MW of my mistake, what a twit.
Ian

[duchessmike]

No worries Ian, I had the box and all the packaging out of the dustbin twice (and with the usual refuse detritus attached...) before I realised what they had done.
I've trialled assembled my kit, and without the rings - its all gone rather solid, nowt moves without thumping it.
Not sure what to do with it; maybe lightly rub-off all the touching surfaces with some fine wet-n-dry to get some movement space?
Enjoy the challenge!
Mike

[vapor]

Got a reply from Isobel this afternoon, guess what she said its fitted to the exhaust manifold I said yes I know, anyway we had a laugh about it, OK on everything going solid I have had a lot of this right through the build, not sure if thats the norm or not, I just assumed that was what is classed as "fettling" I spent ages fettling the axel blocks in front bogie to get a nice sliding fit, also had a few problems getting all the eccentrics to opperate, as you can imagine these tasks are not easy for someone like me with limited experiance and very little by way of workshop machines, my poor old Dremmell has worked overtime, hopefully I have not made to much of a pig's ear of it.
Ian

[paultomlinson]

You're not wrong Ian, there is quite a bit of fettling to do on these kits and I give you credit for getting this far.
Anyway my thoughts for the day:-
I suspect there will be a problem inserting the bobbins when they have their rings on. It's fairly straightforward to compress the rings as the bobbin is pushed home, however when the first set of rings encounter the cavity in the centre they will assume their natural shape. Then it looks impossible to insert the bobbin any further as you can't get to the rings to compress them neither is there a taper on the sleeve to help them home. I have asked MW for a solution but they haven't got back to me yet.
I've now fitted Dave Nobles cylinder draincocks and linkages, although not essential to do they do look good.
I have had to mill the slide bars slightly as the crossheads didn't run in the slidebars until I milled .015" off them. Also on mine I need to shim them .015" at the rear as they enter the frame stretcher.
I also had to mill .040" off the bottom of the exhaust assembly so that the screw holes lined up with those in the frames.
Careful with that emery/ wet and dry Mike!!!

Paul.

[duchessmike]

Hi Paul,
Any chance of a photo of the drain cock arrangements please?
Don't the instructions mention that the front valve bobbin sleeves have a taper inside to get the rings back in? (When we get them!).
Promise not to do anything daft with the wet-n-dry!
Regards,
Mike

[paultomlinson]

Hi Mike
Thanks for the note about the instructions-guess what was missing from my kit. Difficult to see any taper without a borescope!
Pictures on their way.
Paul.