Material to construct water tanks.

[sanddancer]

Good day everyone,
when I decided to look at the construction of the water tanks for the Simplex, I was horrified by the cost of brass sheet. Has anybody thought of, or tried using another material? I am aware that steel would be prone to corrosion, but with a coating of Apexior No.1 or similar treatment, might it be a whole lot cheaper, and stronger. Any comments would be appreciated,

regards,

George

[alanstepney]

Way back, some people would make tanks out of whatever was available.
LBSC mentions this several times and gives examples.
Sheet steel, sheet copper (liberated from old water tanks), are two that I know have been mentioned.

However, none will last as long as brass.
With reasonable workmanship, they should outlast the rest of the engine, and perhaps outlast you too!
Yes, it is expensive, but not as expensive as having to strip down and replace in the future.
So, despite the cost, I would stick to brass if you possibly can.

[ron]

Hi George
I've just started making the tanks, I bit the bullet and bought brass sheet a while back and it was expensive then, I can't see anything cheaper being a good idea long term as there is a fair bit of work involved if you have to repeat it.
There is quite an interesting article in the current EIM about making tanks and sealing them with automotive tank sealer, I might give it a try, because I don't like soldering.
Ron

[baggo]

Hi George,

It pays to shop around for stuff like brass sheet as the prices vary enormously from seller to seller e.g. Reeves are charging £23-76 (plus VAT) per 300 x 300mm for 1.6mm whereas Live Steam Models are only charging £11-56 (plus VAT) ! Might be worth checking out your local metal stockist. I got a 2 foot x 4 foot sheet of 1.2mm for £40 from a couple of blokes who go around the rallies in the Birmingham area.

John

Ron - it had occurred to me that you could probably use the POR15 petrol tank sealer. Worked ok on my Kawasaki tank which had turned into a colander!

[sanddancer]

Hi folks,

thanks for the info, that has given me food for thought,

regards,

George

[mutley]

Ive used petrol tank sealer to cure a leak in a tank discoverd after painting. Worked a treat.

Andy

[Deleted]

The simple rule is " you gets what you pays for" ;D

[Tony K]

The simple rule is " you gets what you pays for"

Mr. orville is right - even if it is Keith Harris talking.

I care for a Simplex with steel tanks. (I do not mean I am in love with it - I just look after it!) The tanks have been sealed with something but the rust still comes through - it is particularly prevalent around the inside of the top lid and mating bits where it is difficult to seal. It looks OK on the outside of course, but inside it is just 'orrible!

Surprisingly, the running of the loco seems unaffected , although I cannot imagine it helps the operation of the injector.

I would recommend brass - you have spent a long time and not inconsiderable sum making this loco - you may not see the benefit of spending a little extra on brass - but you will definitely regret not spending the extra if you use steel. IMHO of course, but based on experience. Incidentally, I recommend the double-acting hand pump also - the single half inch pump is a struggle if you get desperate enough to use the hand pump - and that is the time when you want things to happen - you know, when you are grinding your teeth with your fingers crossed.

[ron]

Hi John
That was a good tip re Live Steam Models, I've just ordered some more sheet and angle brass from them and they are the cheapest by a country mile. The plate work on Simplex is taking a lot more brass than I expected, I reckon I'll have spent over £100 [at the old prices!] by the time I've finished! it was something I sort of overlooked when I was costing initially.
Ron

[circlip]

Just to put a blazer in amongst, has anyone thought about using steel and having the resultant structure hot zinc or hot tin dipped? Other term is Galvanized. Regards Ian.

[durhambuilder]

Live steam models were by far the cheapest on copper sheet (I think they're still using older stock) and are happy to supply the size you want. Their postage hurts a bit though!

[sanddancer]

Hi gents,

just woke up after a month of hibernation. Thanks for all the suggestions. I am going to Harrogate, & will take a look around, but I think that it has to be brass! I have put Live Steam Models into my favourites, as it definitely appears to be the best option. I only hope that I can make some progress with the Simplex before I put my nuts away for winter,

regards,

George

[davidm]

Hi all, my first post so hopefully useful!

Yes, brass is expensive, but not so bad when think of the cost of the whole project. The main advantage for me is the ease of working.
I cut all the sheet with a cheap jigsaw, then riveted and screwed it all together. I filled the joints with soft solder, then sealed it all with motor cycle tank sealant; I used Flowliner, but there are many others.

David

[havoc]

Any tought on using zinc or aluminium? Both are easy to get, strong enough, solderable and mallable.

[jimchunky]

I have built many 5inch gauge locos and always use Zintec sheet, scrounge or buy it easily.
Make angles out of pieces of Zintec bent to suit, and clean off any grease i use washing up liquid and rinse and dry it well. Seal with car body filler. The job will out last most of us so why spend your hard earned "Brass" on Brass? PS use 5 BA csk brass screws to assemble