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Post by 02jcole on Jul 22, 2007 20:05:07 GMT
Hello,
Thinking about building a 4" tasker as my first traction after building a 5" gauge simplex. Anyone else built one??
James.
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Post by alanstepney on Jul 23, 2007 11:07:57 GMT
I saw the very first 4" Tasker when Derek Kilburn showed it at the Worthing club.
An excellent model and not too hard to build.
Go to the Amberley Museum (was the Chalk Pits Museum) for their miniature weekend in September. (22nd and 23rd)
Derek can be found there and is always willing to talk to people, and there is always at least one 4" Tasker among the exhibits.
Now, Colin xxx has made some minor design changes to the boiler. Although I have met him several times, his surname escapes me right now.
However, he too can be found at Amberley as he is one of the helpers there.
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Post by jhaines on Jul 23, 2007 16:35:56 GMT
I have a set of drawings, riveted horn plates, profiled crank and part machined rear bearing housings and a few other odds and sods if you are interested. They came with a part built 3" durham and north yorkshire I purchased, the previous builder was working along the lines of a 'fat boilered tasker'.
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Post by 02jcole on Sept 29, 2007 16:56:15 GMT
Hello,
I would like some advice about building wheels, I have never built a traction engine before and have quite a few question before I begin. Can anyone in this section help me?
James.
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Sept 30, 2007 11:19:56 GMT
Hi
I built a 1.5" scale many years ago . You need to turn the wheel (tyre) and the hub . then you need a jig to build the wheel riveting on the spokes .for each wheel I made two sets of spokes left and wright ,each made as one unit bored in the centre to match the hub and cut and filed halve of the spokes for the wheel . bend the spokes to the correct angle and riveted them to the tyre flange . The jig must locate the tyre and the hub accurately . See my traction engine on my web page . That is how I did it and it is not the only way , you can make all the spokes separately . It would be a good idea to put your hand on a book How To Build The Alchin . Good Luck .
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Post by starspider on Oct 3, 2007 10:02:00 GMT
Hi Have you looked at www.bailey-steam.com/ interesting site shows all sorts of miniature traction engine stuff. colin |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 30, 2007 20:28:58 GMT
James,
In the larger scales, you do not need to turn the rims. I made my rims from a flamecut circle, then welded on the top of the "T". Cut or acquire your spokes (laser cut is quickest), turn & mill slots in the hub. Put hub and rim on building jig and use DTI to true up rim relative to hub. Then carfully fit the spokes.
I have posted some pictures on yahoo group scalemodeltractionengines. See "Burrell Construction"
Best wishes,
Martin
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Post by 02jcole on Feb 4, 2008 20:18:13 GMT
Hello All, Thought I better post something as this section is very, very quiet! I have now managed to purchase a full set of tasker castings and various other parts including front and rear wheels fully riveted and rubbered. I have also got the two largest gears for the differential and the two speed gear on the second shaft. I am now awaiting collection of a professionally made steel boiler from Bell's in the next couple of weeks, so that I can begin to do the hornplates and progress from there. I began this weekend by roughing out the cylinder casting on my 50 year old herbert milling machine. This mill has had a chester head grafted on to it at some point, and is incredibly rigid and versatile for its size. i260.photobucket.com/albums/ii27/02jcole/workshoppics007.jpgi260.photobucket.com/albums/ii27/02jcole/workshoppics006.jpgRegards James. |
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Post by baggo on Feb 4, 2008 23:31:05 GMT
Hi James, that's one big lump of iron!  Is it not cored for the bore? John |
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Post by 02jcole on Feb 5, 2008 8:18:06 GMT
Hello John, No the cylinder block is not cored for the piston or the steam chest, and the flange mount is just solid with no profile, this somewhat suprised me when I when to purchase it. This leads me to believe that the castings is quite old as I am sure that they wouldn't do that with the price of materials these days! But having everything solid makes it a bit easier to clamp down for machining, but will mean alot more messy cast iron swarf all over the workshop, just how I like it ;D I had a thought about weighing the casting before and after maching to see how much is really machined away, could be quite interesting  Regards James. |
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Post by 02jcole on Feb 25, 2008 18:41:35 GMT
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Post by jgb7573 on Feb 26, 2008 10:01:14 GMT
Nice job James. That casting is a lot more complex that the ones I've done (stationary and loco) with the cast in valve chest and boiler mounting. It's great when it goes well.
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Is it not cored for the bore?
