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Post by districtgrandmaste on Jun 20, 2005 11:01:31 GMT
Has anybody in the forum built this?with the Tubalcain modifications?
It was described in 1989 in ME and Tubalcain drew up the design for a covered gearbox. I have just started and find his prose troublesome at times!
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Post by districtgrandmaste on Apr 21, 2006 9:24:07 GMT
Back in June I asked if anyone had experience of this but got no responses. Never the less I have succeeded in making it although I am still wokring on the pump itself.
The only irritation is that the gearbox leaks a bit.
I am thinking of running a bead of Dow Corning's "Silicone Bath & Kitchen SEAL" round the inside of the gearbox.
Can any of you expert chemists tell me if this sealer will resist the oil I shall put into the box afterwards? If not can anyone suggest a more suitable sealer?
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Post by greasemonkey on Apr 21, 2006 11:49:44 GMT
Dow Corning do a MArine grade RTV silicon sealer which I use on just about everything from boiler flanges to valve chest covers with not problems at all. Not sure the 'domestic' grade wil stand up to the oil.
Andy
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Post by steammadman on Apr 21, 2006 19:33:56 GMT
Look at the advertising bar at the top of this page
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Post by greasemonkey on Apr 21, 2006 19:48:30 GMT
so which one do you recomend steammadman?
Andy
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Post by spurley on Apr 22, 2006 12:28:44 GMT
Hi Chaps
Although Silicone sealant is widely used for plugging and sealing I know that it is NOT suitable for exposure to petrol. Between jobs I work with our local Mercury Marine engine dealer and have had the 'pleasure' of cleaning out various boat and outboard motor fuel systems having been contaminated with severely swollen RTV/Silicone sealant, fuel tanks and connections being prone to attention! I am not certain whether it will react the same way to lubricating oil though? It is always worth checking with a sample of oil and sealant together.
Maybe worth looking in the 'Hylomar' range? These are used in place of gaskets in several applications but do need a pretty good mechanical face to face joint to start with. Or there is a product called something like 'sikoflex'; this is like a rubber type solution which is fuel resistant but takes a while to cure. It does stick to things like s**t to a blanket so it's best to be sure you've finished before sticking the last cover on!
Cheers
Brian
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Post by ron on Apr 22, 2006 14:17:19 GMT
Districtgrandmaste
From experience of silicon rubber with classic car engine and gearbox building I would not use it for your application, Blue Hylomar is one of the best joint sealants I have come across but again it isn't really suitable for what you want.
The best I can come up with is a product by Frost Restorers Equipment [www.frost.co.uk] called Oyltite Stik, they claim it stops leaks without dismantling and will stop leaks at gasket flanges, joints and rivit holes, I have no personal experience of it but Frost are well known to car restorers.
Ron
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Post by ridleyian on Apr 22, 2006 14:38:43 GMT
A cautionary tale.
some years ago the starter solenoid in a narrowboat I owned suffered from corrosion of the copper bar which connects the two contacts.I cleaned off the corrosion (which entails unsoldering the coil to get the cover off) but within a month the corrosion was back. Aha I thought , if I seal the cover with silicon rubber sealant that should keep the moisture out. So that's what I did. Imagine my surprise when the very next morning when I went to start the engine.... nothing. When I dismantled the solenoid the copper bar was twice as green as it previously had been. Aha I thought, so that vinegary smell you get from curing RTV really is .....Vinegar.
So, be warned especially if the metal you are intending to apply the sealant to reacts with acetic acid
Ian
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Post by districtgrandmaste on Apr 24, 2006 13:15:16 GMT
Thanks for the suggestions - I will try and track down specs of Oyltite Stik and Hylomar on the net!
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SteveW
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,395
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Post by SteveW on Apr 24, 2006 22:12:32 GMT
Cautionary Tail TWO,
A friend used RTV to seal around a calculator keyboard to keep the grot out. Turns out the acetic acid vapour forms an insulating compound with the silver metaled contacts and stuffed the thing. The good news was that the insulating 'stuff' was water soluble and could be washed off.
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Post by greasemonkey on Apr 25, 2006 9:10:23 GMT
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