Just Started the LBSC Brit

[Deleted]

I've made a start today on the castings. My other half went to Cheltenham and I went into the workshop at two and didn't emerge until 6! I've discovered that my gear isn't good enough for some tasks (what am I saying!). When I tried to mount the cylinder on the angle plate the plate fouled the bedways so I need a neater plate. In addition, the tools that came with my new boring head are neither long enough for this job, nor are they the shape I want, so it's back to the drawing board, and the four jaw! My only real problem is ensuring that both cylinders are exactly parallel. The bolting face is exactly at right angles to the chuck face, so the main piston cylinder is OK right now, the problem occurs when I move the bugger to do the piston valve cylinder!
Here are some pics:
JB
PS. Can't seem to get the pics in the correct order! Anyone know an easier gadget?
www.flickr.com/photos/28837250@N07/

[baggo]

Hi John,

nice to see you've made a start ;D

If you've still got the casting in the chuck, can you face the end of the casting which will give you a flat surface square to the bore. You could then turn the casting end for end and so long as the faced end is flat against the chuck face, the bore should still be on axis. You can then slide the casting across to machine the valve liner bore and as long as the face is still flat against the chuck face, the two bores will be parallel. You would need to mark out the position of the valve liner bore again though.

It would be a good idea anyway to face of the end of the casting before removing it from the chuck as this ensures that the bolting face for the rear cylinder end cover with the piston rod gland is perfectly square to the cylinder bore. The face for the front, blank, cover is not really critical.

Incidentally, the webs on the rear frame stay are the supports for the steam brake cylinder. I think these were mentioned later in the series of articles.

John

[spurley]

PS. Can't seem to get the pics in the correct order! Anyone know an easier gadget?

Hi JB

Nice work so far by the look of it.

I use photobucket photobucket.com/ it's free and you can then put links onto the site here to amuse, or irritate, the other members Like this...........................

Cheers

Brian (the one in the chain mail!) ;D

The other one is 60501, we were at the Bluebell Loco Dept annual 'do' which was fancy dress themed on engine names!!

[Deleted]

Thanks for the advice John, the gunmetal castings are luvly to machine and I shall do as you suggest.

A real engineer is never too old to learn, even from an armchair......

JB

[Deleted]

Thanks for that Brian. How does it go? " Once a King always a King, but once a night is enough..."

[spurley]

Certainly was that (k)night!!

[russell]

Hi,

I had the same problem with my Simplex cylinders and found it easier to bore using a between centres boring bar:


Regards,
Russell.

[jonkett]

had a look at your pics, when you say a good finish for carbide it strikes me that the maybe the carbide tool you are using is not the best for the job.

It looks as though you are using a brazed carbide tool which appears to be painted blue. This is generally used for steel grades of carbide either P30 or P40. Non ferrous and cast iron should be a K grade, usually K20 and are normally painted red. Properly sharpened they should give as good a finish as you could wish for.

[Deleted]

Thanks for the info: I'm a bit out of touch with specs. I was under the impression that the blue paint was the only shade that the Chinese manufacturer had available at the time! Mind you, shaping and sharpening the brazed bit with a fine diamond file, and honing with 1500 wet and dry wetted with WD 40, did help the finish......
JB

[spurley]

Hi John

That is interesting about coulor coded TCT tooling. Do you know what the story is with the set of tools from Chronos

www.chronos.ltd.uk/acatalog/info_xc____.html

These seem to be colour coded as to the type of tool rather than the grade. Any ideas please?

I am thinking of investing in a set, has anyone else bought some?

Cheers

Brian

[Phil Sutton]

Hi Brian.I invested in one of these sets and they certainly produce a good finish on brass and copper.Haven't tried them on steel or C.I. yet,but beats having to make your own. ;D ;D

Phil

[russell]

From the look of them they will probably be OK for CI but IMHO they would need more top rake for a good finish on steel.
Russell.