Flat drive belt

[deverett]

I want to use a flat belt to connect pumps, etc. to the drive pulley of a model IC engine.

It needs to be about 3/4" - 1" wide and doubled end to end length of about 12" - 15", although the length is not too important as the implement can be moved to suit.

If flat belting is not commercially available, how would one make such a belt? I've thought of a thin leather strip glued and stitched. The question then becomes: where does one get supplies of thin leather? A trouser belt is probably too thick.

Dave

[jasonb]

Should be able to get what flat belt you need from the site below, just tell them what sort of size you need.

www.lathes.co.uk/page4.html

Jason

[circlip]

Rather than using flat belts I would be looking at "Poly Vee " type drives.
Regards Ian.

[jasonb]

That would depend on the type of engine, if its an old hit & miss then they would look better with a flat belt, if I wanted to run anything off mine then it would need a flat belt.

If it were a more modern aero or marine engine then a poly-V would probably be better at transfering the load,I used one with the hand held electric starter on my RC Helicopter, think the boat boys use the same.

Jason

[DaveD.]

Some timing belts look pretty flat when moving.

Such as 0.080" and 3mm Pitch.

Look at www.hpcgears.com

I've got a few, but not anywhere near 24" long.
Dave .

[deverett]

Perhaps I should have mentioned that the engine is a hit 'n' miss type, so the flat belting is more appropriate in this case.

Many thanks to you Jason for the Lathes link. I will give them a call when I get home and see what they have to offer. Nice engine, Jason. One of Dick Shelley's Galloways?

And thanks also to you Dave D. I will bear HPC in mind if Tony Griffiths can't supply.

Dave

[jasonb]

Thanks Dave, I'll take that as a complement. The engine is a freelance that was inspired by teh Galloways. Mechanically it is a Zero-six, the design of which was published in Model Engine Builder but that looked to much like it was made from bar stock so I just fabricated all the parts to look more like they were cast, flywheels are 7" Stuarts.

You can see it unpainted and in bits in this album

And the designers zero-six here

Another surce that I have just remembered is LSM who sell traction engine castings, they do flat belting in several widths and the clips to join it, have a look on page 44 of the catalogue.

www.livesteammodels.co.uk/pdf/MES~MAR08A.pdf

Jason

[alanstepney]

Tony, at Lathes.co.uk, does indeed stock flat belting, but it is quite expensive.

One alternative is to look around the craft makers in your area, and find someone who makes leather goods. Then ask then for a belt, but without the holes punched in it.
You will have to join the ends, either by sewing, or making a fastener, but it is a cheap and simple alternative.

[deverett]

Apologies to Alan and Jason for not replying earlier, but I have been in transit from Saudi Arabia to (comparative) civilisation in Ireland for a spot of well earned leave.

I will certainly have a look at LSM and now will have a chance to look around suitable shops over here in West Cork.

Dave

[isc]

I seem to remember that flat heat joinable plastic belting is available.This is similar to the round belting I use on my hot air engines to drive a generator,a water pumpand a power hacksaw(with junior hacksaw blade 15 min 1/2" steel bar)!If the flat belt is as good you'll have no trouble,and it will last a number of years.

[DaveD.]

As we've dug this one up again, I'll poke this in. A month or so ago I was on this site.

www.cricklewoodelectronics.com/Cricklewood/home.php?cat=269

Not actually looking for belts, but they have some that may be suitable for some small engines. Although Sod's Law means you won't find one that fits.

Dave

[isc]

Go to your local belt supply outlet,they should have,or be able to get flat polyurethane heat joinable belting.The sizes range from less than 3/16" to about 12" wide by 0.030" to0.187" thick,sizes may vary depending on the brand.At a local museum I run some vintage machinery using old timing belts turned inside out.You may be able to find these or old polly-v belts at your local garage,in the rubbish.

[ettingtonliam]

My experience with flat belts ( the traditional leather ones) is that very short ones such as you propose need keeping very tight if they are to transmit any power. The longer the belt the better, 24" centres minimum for a 1" belt. They also don't like very small pullies, probably 3" minimum. Is this just for display, or are you trying to get the engine to do useful work.
Engineer's Emporium do belts as well.

Richard

[isc]

You can get a bit o f extra dirive if you use spray on belt dressing.In the old days,a bit of molasses(sticky sugary goo)on leather or fabric belts was the answer,you just have to keep the mice away!!

[DaveD.]

If you want belts to drive, use Fullers Earth on them. ( get it from some chemists, used to cure bum chafing problems I'm told.)

Was often used on leather belts driving textile machines.

Also kieselguhr or kaolin would probably do the job. All diatomaceous earths I think. ( couple of good words there, drop 'em in a pub conversation sometime ... )

Dave

[isc]

I think molasses was used because it was handy for use on farm machinery,it's used in feed for horses,and I think dad used it in the mash for the chooks.If you get leather for the belt(it would look good)chamfer top of one end,and bottom of the other end about an inch.Punch the holes for the stitches,and preferably use 2 needles and either very stout thread or 2or4 or more strands of button thread,if you can get some bees wax to dress the thread,you'll find it easier to manage.Sew up each edge,across each end,then diagonally,before you sew it,some contact type glue(its known as F-2 here),between the two ends,you'v then got the ideal belt for your motor,just keep the belt as long as you can,with the slack side on top.

[Tel]

Good advice there ISC. Molasses was the traditional belt dressing here as well - in fact I think there is still an old molasses can and dobbing stick down in the shed somewhere.