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Post by keithwallwork on Dec 29, 2008 11:36:46 GMT
I am currently building a Simplex and I am confused about the running boards. The Simplex articles indicate that the boards are installed flush with the top of the frames, and this is borne out by the end bracket on the buffer beams. However the general arrangement drawing shows the boards on top of the frames and this is the only way to achieve the overlap on the front of the buffer beams and to fill in the open space in front of the saddle. Can somebody point me in the right direction
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Post by drjohn on Dec 29, 2008 12:04:21 GMT
Hi Keith
You're absolutely right - the running boards sit on top of the frames to butt in with the plate in front of the saddle and the floor of the cab.
How far have you got?
DJ
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Post by baggo on Dec 29, 2008 12:04:21 GMT
Hi Keith,
The bottom of the running boards are flush with the top of the frames but they don't actually overlap the frames. Quote from the 'Words and Music' - the running boards do not lie on top of the frames, but to one side with their lower surface flush with the top edge of the frames.
Hope that helps.
John
PS just seen Dr John's reply and I think it would be better if the running boards overlapped the top of the frames, it would certainly look better. You would just have to cut a notch to fit around the base of the saddle or sit the saddle on top of the running boards?
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Post by ron on Dec 29, 2008 12:06:57 GMT
Hi Keith I made mine as per the drawing, ie they do not overlap the frames but do overlap the bufferbeams, in retrospect I don't know why he did this as it wouldn't make a great deal of difference if they overlapped the frames and would probably look slightly better, also if I remember right, you need to reposition the front support bracket slightly or it will foul the back of the cylinder if made to the drawing? If you need any photos pm me. Ron
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Post by drjohn on Dec 29, 2008 12:10:59 GMT
Baggo and Ron - you guys with the "words and music" I forget that my frames are 3/16" not the same as the plans, so my runningboards do sit on half the width of the frame steel - you westerners with your skimpy little bendy frames don't have that luxury ;D
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redmog
Part of the e-furniture
Not Morgan weather
Posts: 461
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Post by redmog on Dec 29, 2008 13:29:07 GMT
Keith - Mine overlap and sit flat on the top edge of the frame. Cut out around the smokebox as Baggo suggests. Then - I slightly undercut the edge of the running board in front of the smokebox at the bottom and - slightly undercut the edge of the front plate towards the top. Bingo! - When you tighten the running boards down it traps the front plate on the dovetail. Easy to wipe clean and the front plate can slide out if required. Sorry the photo's not too good. Chris
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Post by keithwallwork on Dec 30, 2008 2:01:08 GMT
Hi Guys Thanks,that explains it. To answer DJ's question frames complete with buffers, axles and roller bearing axleboxes fitted, cylinders rough machined ready for boring, axle pump about 50% complete. Frames from 4mm plate 3mm looked flimsy.
Keith
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Post by drjohn on Dec 31, 2008 7:27:12 GMT
Hi Keith
I note you say you used 4mm for the frames - obviously you have reduced the stretchers to keep the overall dimensions correct, but a word of caution - the bushes on the blowdown valves only just clear the 3mm frame steel - I had to mill an area off the inside of my 4.7mm frames to let the boiler in. You can sort of see it in the first picture on page 5 and the second picture on page 15 of the Simplex bit on my site. Well worth doing before you start painting.
The other disadvantage of the thicker frames is, in my case, the inability to attach the boiler to the smokebox when the smokebox is screwed to the saddle on the frames - you have to handle the boiler and smokebox as a single unit as you can't slide the boiler backward unless you make a big milled area on the frames.
I hope I'm teaching my granny to suck eggs ;D and that you already foresaw that problem.
DJ.
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Post by Steve M. W on Dec 31, 2008 15:30:39 GMT
I intend to split my running boards so I can remove a piece to allow access to the valve chest without having to take all the tanks of.
Steve
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Post by Chris Kelland on Feb 10, 2009 8:22:23 GMT
Steve,
That is a good move, I recently had to get into the valve chests on my Simplex and had to take cab, tanks and all off to do the job, so I split the running board above the motion plate and added small angle brackets to support the two ends.
When I eventually get round to my Super Simplex I am going to try having seperate cab and tanks with just the running board forward of the tanks.
Chris.
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russell
Statesman
Chain driven
Posts: 762
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Post by russell on Feb 10, 2009 9:51:19 GMT
Just looked at my Simplex chassis and the top of the expansion link comes just above the top of the frame (by about 1 mm) so I will have to make a cut out in the running boards (under the tanks). Is this normal or have I boobed? The radius rods are level in neutral.
Russell.
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Post by Chris Kelland on Feb 10, 2009 17:13:44 GMT
I Don't think so, I have seen a number of Simplex's (or is it Simpli?) with a cut out in the running board to give clearance. I've just looked at the original article and there are no cutouts, though the Ga side view does look extreemly close. The 2 loco's I have in the workshop at the moment both have cutouts.
Chris
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Post by baggo on Feb 10, 2009 17:21:32 GMT
Hi Russell,
Just checked my own CAD drawings and yes, the front corner does swing above the top of the frames although I measure it to be about 0.5mm. I can get away with just rounding the top front corner of the link I think!
However, I intend to make the tanks completely separate from the running boards (rather than use the running board as the bottom of the tank) so a clearance hole would not be a problem.
John
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russell
Statesman
Chain driven
Posts: 762
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Post by russell on Feb 11, 2009 8:58:54 GMT
Thanks. It's good to know I'm not alone!
Russell.
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Post by ron on Feb 11, 2009 10:19:53 GMT
Hi Russell & John I also had to cut an approx 1/2" square hole for the expansion links in the running boards, they just interfered and no more not even enough to touch the bottom of the tanks plus they are hidden by the side tanks anyway. My frames, motion brackets and expansion links were lazer cut so they should be accurate?? Ron
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Post by drjohn on Feb 28, 2009 3:07:34 GMT
Mine were hand cut and hit the running boards, so I just rounded off the top till they didn't hit the running boards rather than cutting holes.
DJ
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