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Post by spamcanman on Feb 2, 2009 19:23:53 GMT
What's the best type of linisher to buy a flatbed or upright type also what's the best grade paper to use for removing machining marks to a nice bright finish.
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SteveW
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,399
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Post by SteveW on Feb 2, 2009 21:55:27 GMT
SPAM, I bought one from Screwfix. It's horizontal and includes a vertical disk sander with a table all for around seventy quid. If anything I find the disk of more use and for nearly everything. I think I've got 100 grit on it (sticky backed abrasive discs). It's great for doing edges, mitres, trimming edges back to a line etc. I find the major problem with the linisher is the join in the belt. When you're using it there is always a bump as it goes through. The bought belts are are lot better than the OEM one. I've had the thing for ages an still use the original disc but have changed the belt. I went for a coarse belt than disc. The current Screwfix version is: www.screwfix.com/prods/78632/Power-Tools/Benchtop-Woodworking/Erbauer-PGFD4-6F-Belt-Disc-Sanderbut this one looks a bit better than mine and all for just over 78 quid. |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 2, 2009 22:05:16 GMT
Hi Steve. I've used a Clarke clone of your machine for years, and even a 'fine' belt is still a bit coarse for my purposes! The disc sander is great, especially for finish grinding lathe tools at consistent clearance angles, a purpose for which a lot of us don't think of at the time of purchase.
JB
PS. I forgot, you can set the belt as a vertical linisher.......
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Post by Tel on Feb 3, 2009 9:43:30 GMT
Mine's a home made version - handy, but not the best choice for removing machining marks - for that a hunk of plate glass and several grades of wet & dry paper
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brozier
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 335
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Post by brozier on Feb 3, 2009 9:54:35 GMT
I have one of the clarke clones too. A 60 grit belt makes short work of fettling wheel castings when in vertical mode. I did try cleaning up my frame strechers using an 80 grit belt and they ended slightly barrel shaped so be careful  I use finer belts for touching up small drill bits. A handy bit of kit. |
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Post by spamcanman on Feb 3, 2009 10:12:37 GMT
so it sounds like there not to be used for rods etc. how do you guys get everything looking so smooth?
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Post by modeng2000 on Feb 3, 2009 10:40:27 GMT
I have one of these machines. It is very useful, don't know how I managed without it!
However, when it was new, it vibrated so much that it walked across the bench unless clamped down. The problem was that the backing plate for the sanding disk was machined such that it was badly out of balance. Across a diameter one side was about twice as thick as the other. From memory about 6mm down to 3mm. I managed to balance the disk by machining the front face using the hole for the drive as the reference. Now there is no sign of vibration.
I hope this is helpful, John
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Post by Deleted on Feb 3, 2009 10:57:36 GMT
so it sounds like there not to be used for rods etc. how do you guys get everything looking so smooth? A hard rubber block, 800 wet and dry, and lots of patience.... JB |
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Post by drjohn on Feb 3, 2009 11:47:30 GMT
so it sounds like there not to be used for rods etc. how do you guys get everything looking so smooth? Naw - JB keeps telling us about what a tiny workshop he has then propounds all his machines and stuff! - what with his roller/bender/guillotine etc - how thin is this JB fellow - my workshop is approximately the same claimed dimensions as simplylocos, but I couldn't get half the stuff into it that he keeps telling us he has ;D Mind you, I have a man sized waistline.  Finishing coupling rods and getting things smooth - you need a good original (not a cheap Warco copy!!) Chinese milling machine, rigid enough to do climb milling without grabbing. Never mind all this wet and dry rubbing stuff - just makes you skinny and unattractive to machinery like JB! ;D   However, to be serious and keeping to the thread, the linisher is only as good as the sanding belts/disks you buy - the actual mechanics are too simple to cost anything more than a few bob - like many others, I made my own, but in the constraints of this 3rd world backwater, I bought a chinese jobby for 25 quid, but I do buy relatively quality belts. I also have some lovely P1200 grade velcro attached disks which make a dazzling finish, but not engineeringly flat - strictly for the cosmetic jobs. |
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Post by dickdastardly40 on Feb 3, 2009 12:06:30 GMT
JB keeps telling us about what a tiny workshop he has then propounds all his machines and stuff! - what with his roller/bender/guillotine etc - how thin is this JB fellow - my workshop is approximately the same claimed dimensions as simplylocos, but I couldn't get half the stuff into it that he keeps telling us he has ;D Mind you, I have a man sized waistline. I can attest to the fact that JB's shop is as small as he says having visited late last year. I think where he scores points certainly over me is it's general tidyness and organisation. If an item is not in use it's put away under the bench etc. I have a man's waistline also and managed to get throught he door and turn around Back on topic, I am thinking of bolting a wooden disc to my lathe faceplate to make a disc sander and using either the vertical slide with an angle block or making a wooden table over the lathe bed so I can 'sand' radii on covers and eccentric straps. I think I'd have to cover the machine in a plastic sheet to stop the dust getting everywhere, but it seems to me a 'easy' way of getting a useful tool. What do you think? Al |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 3, 2009 13:52:22 GMT
DJ, I've told you before: don't wind me up!  Here's a piece of machinery that seems to like me despite what he says!  By the way DJ, wind-up or not, climb milling, INMHO, should not be advocated, as it is bad practice and often dangerous, as one young apprentice (me) will testify..... JB |
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Prowe
Involved Member
Posts: 89
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Post by Prowe on Feb 4, 2009 8:29:26 GMT
Al,
I have done this in the past with a simple table to bring the work up to centre height, with a fixed fence to sand accurate mitres on picture frames. The results were very good but I did find because I was only sanding wood, not only did I need a vacuum cleaner hose to remove the dust, but also needed to rack the cross slide in and out continually to prevent clogging of the abrasive disc by staying in one position.
For some strange reason I have never even thought about using this idea for shaping and finishing metal parts, but I will definitely try it when the next opportunity arises.
Phil
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Post by drjohn on Feb 4, 2009 8:57:27 GMT
Tut-tut, JB. Did your mummy never tell you it was rude to point?  ;D |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 4, 2009 9:11:22 GMT
Hi Al and Phil, and a grudging good morning to DJ! I applaud the economy and adaptation, but a large disc face means that you will have difficulty polishing inside radii on rods etc. If you have a fast drill spindle this approach might be easier:  Best wishes JB |
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Post by deverett on Feb 5, 2009 21:58:02 GMT
JB
That's a darn good idea - having a miniature polishing spindle in the milling/drilling machine for inside radii.
One thing though, doesn't the ice cream melt rather quickly keeping it in that location?
Dave
The Emerald Isle
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Post by spamcanman on Mar 1, 2009 23:53:21 GMT
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Post by dickdastardly40 on Mar 11, 2009 18:17:45 GMT
Done the sanding disc idea, works well for the brief try I gave it on a brass eccentric strap; just gotta work out the details for the work surface.  |
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;D 