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Post by atgordon on May 1, 2009 0:28:20 GMT
I have just picked up my wheel and cylinder castings from Bernier Metals in Saginaw, MI and wanted to let the list know that they are superb.
I should add that I provided my own patterns (bought off eBay - and very good they were too). The cost for the cylinders was 85% of Blackgate's current cost: the wheels were 60% ... and no shipping!!! that is what kills you with castings. They even worked with me to add bosses to the steam/valve chests to allow for the SS machining (see the attached photo).
Given the state of the US auto industry, they are interested in offering their service to other Simplex builders. I am more than happy to let them use my patterns if it helps out an international Simplex builder.
Tony
Photo removed due to its size.
Alan Stepney
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redmog
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Post by redmog on May 1, 2009 7:54:51 GMT
Is there any way I can hide
the oversize photo that has
been published in order to view
a reasonable size screen again?
Thanks
Chris
P.S. Just as well drjohn does'nt do this
or we'd have coal all over the place!
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Post by alanstepney on May 1, 2009 9:13:36 GMT
Photo from above post.  |
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redmog
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Post by redmog on May 1, 2009 10:30:21 GMT
Thank You Alan.
Nice castings.
Hope they machine as well as they look!
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Post by drjohn on May 2, 2009 9:13:47 GMT
Nice looking castings, but the steam chest covers look a bit thick, and without a spiggot to chuck them, will be fun getting down to a thickness whick doesn't totally hide the mounting screws for the smokebox. I did have the same trouble with my castings from OZ (have I ever had anything trouble free from those upside-downers?  ) so I circumvented the problem by drilling and threading a hole in the centre of the covers to chuck them, and later used the hole for the snifters - you can see the concept on pages 8 and 14 of the Simplex bit of my website. DJ |
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Post by baggo on May 2, 2009 11:28:48 GMT
I've always thought it a bit strange that casting sets come with cast steam chest covers. All you do is machine them until they are just a piece of flat plate. Why not use a piece of brass or steel plate in the first place and save a lot of work  John |
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redmog
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Post by redmog on May 2, 2009 14:57:51 GMT
Why not use a piece of brass or steel plate in the first place and save a lot of work John I used a piece of steel plate on my Simplex 30 years ago. I've often wondered what it looks like inside that cast iron valve chest 30 years later! No I'm not going to disassemble it to have a look, because it still runs fine. I do fill them with used engine oil though, after a run. I leave a tube down the chimney into the blast pipe with a funnel on the top in order to pour the old engine oil in. Chris |
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on May 6, 2009 9:48:27 GMT
I have so many valve chest castings in my scrap box , I use them for anything but valve chest covers , a plate will suffice.
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Post by atgordon on May 16, 2009 16:13:34 GMT
Robin Smith (a Canadian-based Simplex builder) and I placed a joint order with Bernier for the castings. Robin tells me that the castings are much finer details and better looking than those from Blackgates ... it will be interesting to see how they machine, although I was assured by the company that they used free-machining CI for the task, and also mould slow cooling to anneal the castings for 36-hours.
Both Robin and I had decided to use the steel plate for the steam chest covers, but I had the patterns, and it cost $10 for the covers, so it was worth getting them just to see. So, at this point, I don't think either of us has made any decisions on what to use.
In terms of machining the covers, I have a 12"x6" powered mag vise, that I can put on the v. mill and run a 3" face mill across them to get them to size. You could also mount them in a 4-jaw with suitable packing, but I prefer the mill for this kind of task.
Tony
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Post by drjohn on May 17, 2009 15:25:13 GMT
Hi Tony - Robin sends me the Cc's of his emails with you. Lucky you being able to hold the steam chest covers flat on the mill  . I had to bore a hole in the middle and chuck them in a 3 jaw - then used the hole for the snifters. But as many have said, a bit of flat steel would be just as good. Keep at it and post some pictures - always good to see other workmanship and get ideas. DJ |
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Post by redmog on May 17, 2009 15:47:15 GMT
In terms of machining the covers, I have a 12"x6" powered mag vise, that I can put on the v. mill and run a 3" face mill across them to get them to size. Tony You lucky man. Well there's one advantage of using ferrous steam chest covers. |
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Post by atgordon on May 19, 2009 9:25:06 GMT
Dr John, It was the photos on your site that made me think it might be worth getting the steam chest covers!
And I am sure that once everything is painted, it really doesn't make much difference whether the covers are MS or CI ...
I like the idea of recycling the old engine oil into the cylinders! I change the oil in our cars and truck regularly, and up to now have recycled in the traditional manner.
Robin and I are now trying to figure out how to use Durabar (a continuous cast high quality CI: not sure if that is available outside the US) to make the piston rings. Robin did mention a helpful ME article in the current edition that address that topic ... any suggestions on making simplex piston rings would be welcome!
Tony
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Post by drjohn on May 20, 2009 3:17:59 GMT
Hi Tony Piston rings I did a much simplified version of Prof Chaddock's concept. The two differences were that I made the ring to the finished size and didn't do any skimming afterwards and I didn't cut the ring with a hacksaw, merely gripped it with a pair of pliers and carefully snapped it for the gap - the heat treatmet as per Chaddock and now they're run in, the compression is impressive! here's a starter article with links to the full blown science from Prof Chaddock and Tubal Cain. www.homepages.mcb.net/howe/NewsMakingRings.htmCheers DJ |
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Post by atgordon on May 24, 2009 1:30:13 GMT
Interesting approach ... Robin Smith's ME article ref. (looks like the current edition) takes another approach, allowing for a stepped ring.
I'm so far away from this stage that I just hope I remember one jot of this conversation when I get to that point! Tony
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Post by Tel on May 24, 2009 21:12:35 GMT
Hi Tony - Robin sends me the Cc's of his emails with you. Lucky you being able to hold the steam chest covers flat on the mill . I had to bore a hole in the middle and chuck them in a 3 jaw - then used the hole for the snifters. But as many have said, a bit of flat steel would be just as good. Keep at it and post some pictures - always good to see other workmanship and get ideas. DJ Or you can just bung 'em in the vise of the 10" shaper on a couple of parallels and have 'em done in no time flat. |
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) so I circumvented the problem by drilling and threading a hole in the centre of the covers to chuck them, and later used the hole for the snifters - you can see the concept on pages 8 and 14 of the Simplex bit of my website.
. I had to bore a hole in the middle and chuck them in a 3 jaw - then used the hole for the snifters. But as many have said, a bit of flat steel would be just as good.
