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Post by AndrewP on May 1, 2009 19:41:17 GMT
I visited the local engineering supplies place this week to get some 'light machine oil' of 'SAE 20' as specified in the book for my Boxford - DUH! "nowt like that son" " for the blokes with Myfords we have this iso 32 hydraulic oil, that's what they use." Mind you he did GIVE me a litre of the iso32. It seems very thin, and a peruse of an equivalents chart somewhere on line would indicate that iso68 would be more comparable. I have several litres of 80w/90 gear oil which is also closer to SAE20 viscosity. So the question is, do I use either, neither of these for the oiling points on the Boxford or do I have to wait to play until I can get some proper SAE 20 machine oil at Harrogate, if I make it, or by mail order (argh the postage!). The grease was easy - Halfords! Keen to make swarf, Andy
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SteveW
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,399
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Post by SteveW on May 1, 2009 20:49:00 GMT
Andy, I've done my oil purchasing at the MEXs. I have a Myford and got their Nuto something-or-other for the head stock bearings and what was described as 'slide oil' for the slides. The two are very different so it's difficult to answer your general Boxford lubrication question. The slide oil is quite thick and sticky while the Nuto is maybe thiner. It just occurred to me Myford and Boxford < >ford Huh?
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jackrae
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,333
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Post by jackrae on May 1, 2009 21:26:47 GMT
Andrew, There's no way an 80/90 oil can be of similar viscosity to an SAE20. If what you have as gear oil is similar to your sample of SAE20 then one of them isn't what you think it is. jack
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Post by AndrewP on May 1, 2009 22:59:33 GMT
It confused the hell out of me Jack, I was basing the comparison on this chart www.bobistheoilguy.com/visc.htmlbut realise I was assuming machine oil was graded like engine oil which it may not be. I don't have a sample as such of the oil used before, except what was on it, and that seemed thicker than the iso32 which is thin like 3 in 1. Cheers, Andy
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Tony K
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,573
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Post by Tony K on May 2, 2009 7:06:21 GMT
On my Myford I use the Nuto stuff for the headstock (the only part I think is critical), because the manufacturer recommends it and others said it mattered. For the remainder e.g. bed, any engine oil from Halfords - preferably the cheapest. I work on the principle that oiling, even with the wrong oil, is far better than no oil at all. After all, do we think the bloke who said SAE20 spent a long time on a slide rule - or did he say any oil will do, but we have to specify something, so let it be the (then) readily available SAE20? I suppose you could say the temperature is much lower than in an engine, so it should be low viscosity, but I have not heard of anyone being told, after a lifetime of machining, when they reach the pearly gates that their leadscrew had worn by an extra thou and therefore no entry to heaven. I suppose we could be criticised for not using the Holy Spirit (3-in-1). I also use the Halfords nectar on the running gear of my loco.
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Post by baggo on May 2, 2009 8:35:36 GMT
I must admit that I use anything going on my ML7 and have never bothered with the expensive 'special' oils. Like Tony, I've used engine oil, even in the headstock bearings. At the moment I'm using some EP90 gear oil because I happen to have some. I bought the lathe new in 1973 and it's had some hammer since then. The white metal shells and spindle are still as good as new with no sign of play. Maybe for the sort of light use most of us use our machinery for, the oil is not really that critical. In an industrial environment things are no doubt different.
John
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redmog
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Not Morgan weather
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Post by redmog on May 2, 2009 9:41:20 GMT
At the moment I'm using some EP90 gear oil because I happen to have some. John John EP90 is a transmission oil and quite thick. I'm surprised you use that but as you say - it's stood the test of time. The recommended oil is very thin, like 3 in 1 as already indicated. I'd expect it to be very thin to get to where it is wanted, the surface area of the spindle and bearing. I know mine is doing it's job because there is a trace of oil behind the chuck. Myford suggest ESSO NUTO H32 (H – Hydraulic 32 ISO Viscosity) Suitable alternatives include Shell – Tellus 32, Castrol Hyspin AWH 32, BP Bartran H or HV32. The number 32 is not an SAE number, it's thinner oil than that, about 10 SAE Chris
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russell
Statesman
Chain driven
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Post by russell on May 2, 2009 10:17:01 GMT
I beleive the 20 in multigrade 20W/50 motor oil is the viscosity when cold. The 50 is the equivalent viscosity at working temperature. In other words it doesn't thin down as rapidly with temperature as a straight oil. So a 20W/50 engine oil should do fine. It contains various additives and detergents which should have little effect at headstock temperatures. I've used it for thirty years on my Atlas with no problems although that does have tapered roller bearings instead of plain. I find chainsaw oil works well on slideways.
Russell.
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brozier
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Post by brozier on May 2, 2009 11:22:33 GMT
For machine oil I can recommend Morris Oils in the UK www.morrislubricantsonline.co.uk/scripts/default.aspThey sell 32 weight Hydraulic oil for Myfords at a cost per 5litre that Myfords charge for 1litre! ;D They also sell various cutting fluids and steam oil. Some in 5litre and some in 20litres. I've just received a delivery from them very pleased with the service - usual disclaimers.... Cheers Bryan
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Post by baggo on May 2, 2009 11:39:16 GMT
Hmmm, might treat the old girl to some proper stuff at those prices ;D John
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Post by ettingtonliam on May 5, 2009 15:01:08 GMT
My Raglan Littlejohn is supposed to have 20SAE, but I've been using a straight 30 oil (Halfords, for lawnmowers) and that seems fine. Chainoil for the slides.
Richard
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