gwrfan
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Post by gwrfan on Feb 22, 2006 16:17:32 GMT
Hi all, I'm just about to venture into the world of case hardening, using Kasenit powder. Having never used this stuff before, I've looked for 'instructions for use', and it seems that one merely heats the mild steel (in my case axles for roller bearings) to red heat, dunks them into the powder, reheats to red colour, and then dunks into clean cold water. All seems fairly straightforward. Or is it? I might dunk them into the powder a couple of times, as suggested, to increase the thickness. Your worldly comments would be appreciated. Thanks. Geoff in bitterly cold Cornwall.
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Post by chris vine on Feb 22, 2006 17:52:11 GMT
Hi Geoff,
I find that it is one of those products which does exactly what it says on the tin. If you keep it hot for a while or do a double dip then the case will be harder.
When it is done you will find a mottled grey surface which is really hard. You could always do a test on a bit of steel of the same sort of thickness and bend it to make sure it is not hard right through.
Chris.
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gwrfan
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Post by gwrfan on Feb 22, 2006 18:22:11 GMT
Thanks for that, Chris. I'll have a go tomorrow, after all, it's only metal, haha.
And congratulations on your fabulous B1 'Bongo' in the ME. Pity you didn't get the cup - you should have, LOL!
Geoff (Must get my 5 inch B1 on the go again soon!)
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lancelot
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Post by lancelot on Feb 22, 2006 18:32:04 GMT
Hello Geoff, Keep clear of the fumes while using ''Kasenit'' as I believe it contains 20% Pottassium Ferricyanide... Heat part to red dunk in ''Kasenit'' , re heat to a good red and quench in water, the process can be repeated to increase thickness of the caseing. All the best for now, John.
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gwrfan
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Post by gwrfan on Feb 22, 2006 18:46:06 GMT
Thanks for that warning, John.
Anyone know if this process actually alters the thickness of the metal itself?
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Post by chris vine on Feb 22, 2006 22:25:01 GMT
Hi Geoff, Thanks for kind remarks. I don't know how far you have got with your B1? There are a couple of things which Martin Evans got really wrong with both his 5" and 7.25" versions. I think most people are aware of them, but the worst are the angle that the steam pipes come out from the smoke box, they should be almost vertical rather than radial: there is a real mess up over the width and height of the running plates over the motion, It looks awful if the expansion link bracket sticks out at the side and the link should not stick up through the running plate. Both can be fixed fairly but it is quite tricky and in fact I had got mine made when I saw the error..... esperanto.
with a moniker like yours why are you making an LNER??!!
As for the size change, well there is another experiment for you, we will await the result!!....
Chris.
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gwrfan
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Post by gwrfan on Feb 22, 2006 22:55:16 GMT
Hi Chris,
I bought my part completed B1, including completed tender and copper boiler a couple of years ago, from one of the Free Ad papers. As it was being sold locally (50 miles away!), and for £800, how could I resist it? Having had much correspondence with a certain Doug Hewson, who was very good in sending me lots of info, I decided not to do anything with the B1 until my other GWR loco was well under way. Unfortunately, since then, I've bought my now almost completed 'Maid of Kent (Cornish Maid!!)), and a Bulldog chassis. So the B1 is gathering dust, but in full view in the lounge - just to remind me that it needs my undivided attention! I know that at least one B1 ran down here - during the 1948 BR Loco Exchange Trials!
As for the Kasenite, We'll see tomorrow, cold weather permitting.
Geoff
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