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Post by Deleted on Jan 27, 2010 9:42:06 GMT
I've recently retro-fitted a Gordon Chiverton 12oz vertical injector that produces a lot of hot water from the overflow at any pressure up to 90 psi.
Before I start some serious plumbing, can anyone confirm I've got the connections right? i.e.
Top vertical = steam, upper horizontal = water and lower horizontal = feed.
More questions later I'm afraid!
Cheers,
Gareth
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Post by baggo on Jan 27, 2010 10:29:52 GMT
Hi Gareth,
the connections sound ok. You could have a serious restriction in the output from the injector with the result that some or all of the water is coming out of the overflow rather than going into the boiler. Check the boiler clack to make sure it's not stuck or internally restricted. Have you checked the delivery cone to make sure it's not blocked? Another possibility is the steam supply to the injector is insufficient.
John
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Post by drjohn on Jan 27, 2010 11:49:03 GMT
Can't follow your writen description Gareth - post a picture with annotations.
DJ
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Post by baggo on Jan 27, 2010 12:38:10 GMT
Like this but with the delivery horizontal?
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Post by Deleted on Jan 27, 2010 13:03:55 GMT
Thanks John, yes that's it exactly.
The original injector I thought was too beefy and while the boiler filled up pdq that resulted in an alarming pressure drop*. I reckoned that Gordon's 12oz would be a bit more subtle and look more to scale. I know, if it ain't broke........
The steam and water pipes were replaced with new ones; a 5/32 ferrule soldered onto the steam pipe and the end sawn off to fit the 3/16 ferrule needed for the steam valve. I made a similar join, but pipe to pipe, on the delivery side. All pipes blow through ok and appear to be tight.
The clack is fitted to the backhead and looks home made. There's what looks to be a bit of cotton waste and fire cement involved so removing that for examination / replacement will be done with eyes shut and fingers crossed. Before that I might try the injector delivering to air rather than the clack. I'm getting used to stress-testing the tender handpump.
Will post how it goes.
* Having now run the engine on a rolling road, rather than just steamed her on the patio table, I think I have some draughting issues which will be the subject of my next begging thread!
Thanks and regards,
Gareth
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Post by drjohn on Jan 27, 2010 13:16:11 GMT
Like this but with the delivery horizontal? Thanks John - with the big writing in capitals rather than the funny joined up stuff, I comprehended the piccy - spoke a thousand words did that, although you did forget the word "OVERFLOW"! ;D DJ
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Post by Deleted on Feb 1, 2010 13:51:39 GMT
Looks as if the backhead clack was the culprit.
During a short test the hand pump clack gave up the ghost as well so I think I'll replace all three.
Thanks to John for the steer.
GW
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Tony K
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,573
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Post by Tony K on Feb 7, 2010 10:04:45 GMT
Looks as if the backhead clack was the culprit. During a short test the hand pump clack gave up the ghost as well so I think I'll replace all three. Thanks to John for the steer. GW The clacks using an O ring, rather than a ball, are delivering the goods for me.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2010 14:19:54 GMT
I agree. Taking the old clacks off and blowing through them I couldn't tell if I was at the boiler end or pipe end without looking.
But the new ones...... beautiful.
However, the new ones aren't flanged so I'd appreciate any suggestions as to how I can ensure they're steam tight into the boiler bushes? A lock nut and washer I'd guess but if I'm talking rubbish please say so!
If I'm wrong, is there a dodge to ensure they're tight when at the angle they need to be at? I'm screwing into pre-existing bushes.
Thanks in advance,
Gareth.
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pondok
Part of the e-furniture
My 5" gauge SAR class 15F
Posts: 359
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Post by pondok on Feb 11, 2010 16:35:41 GMT
Hi Gareth,
Yip, a lock nut, it should allow you to tighten the fitting in any position, using whatever sealant you prefer...
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Tony K
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,573
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Post by Tony K on Feb 11, 2010 18:05:13 GMT
It was a bit tight for me at ΒΌ x 40 so a half nut and PTFE tape.
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2010 19:19:29 GMT
Thank you Gents, much appreciated.
One more if I may. With a commercial clack and a bronze boiler bush, what material would you suggest for the lock nut? And if needed, would a washer be best in copper, fibre or neither of those?
Sincer thanks,
Gareth
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Post by baggo on Feb 11, 2010 21:51:59 GMT
No reason why the nut can't be ordinary brass as it's not in contact with the boiler water. Personally, I'd stick with a copper washer, I've never found the fibre ones to be much good.
John
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Post by Deleted on Feb 11, 2010 22:23:47 GMT
Excellent, that's my week-end sorted.
Sincere thanks to one and all.
Gareth.
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