Workshop floors

[steamlaser]

In a rare moment of weakness SHMBO has given me provisional permission to convert the garage to a workshop. (But there are of course domestic strings attached!)
I will be insulating the walls, ceiling and relacing the cheap and nasty "up and over" door.A double glazed unit will go in one wall.
In the original plan ,I was going to have a membrane put down on the floor and battens with a suitable load bearing wooden floor installed on it. However this means we will no longer be able to put a vechile into the garage if needed.
The present floor is concrete and I assume is of a reasonable load bearing strength.My lathe and mill are bench mounted and are of non industrial weight.
My question is,will this surface be a source of cold during the winter?
If I have "Duck Boards " placed in the areas of the main activities and thus isolating me from the floor,will this be sufficient?
Should I line the floor first with a cheap Vinyl covering to give some sort of first line insulation?
You advice would be greatly appreciated

[russell]

IMHO - good quality epoxy garage floor paint to seal it. Then use duck boards in work areas. They also allow swarf to fall through and not get trodden into your shoes.

Russell.

[weldsol]

I painted my concrete floor then put carpet down the intention was to grab any rogue swarf so I didn't transport to the house, but it proved more of a problem after a couple of months (it was that good at trapping swarf I couldn't clean it).
So on fleabay I saw some 3mm thick ribbed rubber matting which came in rolls 600mm wide so I stuck that down.
It has been down now for 4 yrs with no problems also what is nice is if you drop that nice machined part it doesn't get damaged.
Also by the door I keep a piece of carpet to get that swarf

Paul

[jgb7573]

If you need to put a vehicle into the garage, then yes, a good quality floor paint to seal it and keep the dust down, then duckboards. If you didn't need to get a car in, then I wiould use a waterproof membrane with 1-2 inches of expanded polystyrene sheet on top. Then a chipbard floor sealed with floor varnish. Lovely and warm in the winter months!

[johnstevo]

Has anyone tried that stable rubber matting as listed on ebay ?

Looks like solid rubber on top but porous and honeycombed underneath to allow water to drain away, not bothered about that bit but they are made for horses.

John S.

[brozier]

Hi John,

I use the matting which is about an inch thick and has lots of perforations in it. The height off the ground makes it warm on the feet and the swarf falls through the perforations so you don't tread it into the house.

Just lift the mats now and again and sweep up....

Cheers
Bryan

[steamlaser]

Thanks for all the replies.
I will be going for a painted sealed floor and individual mats in the working areas.
It will also mean that the any water getting in will be able to easily evaporate.

[rodwilson]

Mats are O.K. if you don't use machines or fittings on wheels (casters). I have had old conveyor belts on my workshop floor and they have served well but is is surprisingly difficult to more the hacksaw or cabinet full of offcuts up and over the edges .
As my age increased and strength decreases I'm looking at an all over industrial sheeting. Sod the kids inheritance!;D

[steammadman]

workshop floors! ! ! !

duct boards are great ; but; guess where that small peice you have just spent all
evening making goes, you guessed it , under the duct board, can you find it in all that swarfe, can you hell!!!!!
best thing i have found is a length of conveyer belting lasts for years, and if joined well
and a rubber seal along the joint , you are less likely to loose that small part.

oh and yes carpets are as muck use as a chocolate fireguard ! ! !