Disney American

[jbodenmann]

There are a gaggle O' little bits in these trucks. The half brasses on full size trucks can come adrift if the trucks are lifted or there is a derailment. On full size trucks the half brasses must be removable out the little door with the axle in place. The axle box is jacked up and the pressure taken off the half brass. Then the brass can be taken out and replaced. This is not necessary on model trucks and is a source of much headache and frustration as our models are often picked up (and actually derail occasionally!). These model trucks are set up with very large square half brasses, they are fished in through the little door before the axle is in place. Then the axle is stuffed in. Once the axle is in place the half brasses can not get out of place. So when play time is over we can just pick our little models up and carry them to the car. Too much fun.
Jack

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[jbodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Here is a shot of one of the tender trucks. As mentioned before the spring rigging is unusual on these early trucks. These trucks must have been a real handful to maintain with all them nuts and bolts to work loose. Todays modern trucks have virtually no nuts and bolts. Boring to model, but much easier to maintain.
Happy Model Building
Jack

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[noggin]

Very nice work matey, always give me a buzz seeing workmanship like that .
noggin

[jbodenmann]

Hello My Friends
First off I must thank you for the very nice compliments. I love what I do, and your kind words mean a lot to me. Here are a few photos of what I have been up to. Time to start the tender frame. The Disney prints call out for a cast aluminum frame...perfectly fine from a practical point of view but a bit lacking for a model of this caliber. The original had a wood frame so that is what will be used here. Maple was selected for it's strength and fine closed grain.

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[jbodenmann]

There are some castings that will need to be made for the frame. Here is the master for some castings that will hold the buffer beams the the intermediate sills. There will be eight #5-40 bolts in each. There will be four of these.

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[jbodenmann]

Here is where they will be located in the frame.

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[jbodenmann]

There will also be castings to support the outer frame rails. The wide ones will also function as side bearings for the truck springs and will have four transverse truss rods going up and over the center sill. The narrow castings will have one transverse truss rod. As they are masters for investment casting they are a bit oversize, and also have extra material for machining they won't fit in the frame yet.

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[jbodenmann]

Here is the start of the link and pin coupler pocket.

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[jbodenmann]

This will be the front of the coupler pocket. This pocket has two slots to allow for differing heights.

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[jbodenmann]

Here the front has had the slots cut and has been zoomed with an edge rounding end mill. This piece is 3/16" thick and a 3/32" radius end mill has been used to round the edges.

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[jbodenmann]

Here the corners of the slots have been massaged a bit with a file. Now it will be well annealed and formed to the desired radius. As it is almost impossible to form a curve right out to the edge, extra material has been left at the outer edges so that after forming it can be trimmed. Thus allowing the curve to extend to the edge.

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[jbodenmann]

Here our part has been placed in the hydraulic press and is being mashed into a maple scrap left over from making the tender frame. A lump of round stock of the correct diameter is being used to form the curve. I think the part had to be re positioned and mashed four or five times.

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[jbodenmann]

Here we go! Starting to look like something now. After forming the front piece was trimmed and the outer edges were zoomed on the belt sander. The outer corners were then rounded with a file. The round bosses for the mounting bolts were dropped into holes cut with a 9/32" end mill and the front was stuck on with #00-90 screws. Now all will be disassembled fluxed and silver soldered.

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[jbodenmann]

After silver soldering and a swim in the acid pot the boss for the coupler pin was stuck on top with soft solder. As this is only a master for casting, the soft solder will be plenty strong enough. The coupler pocket was then given a good going over in the sand blast cabinet with #30 mesh sand to simulate the texture of a sand casting. Now off to Brad for investment casting. Easy peasy!

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[jbodenmann]

Last one for now. This is the start of the draw bar pocket that will fit to the front buffer of the tender. Another delightful little puzzle!
Happy model building.
Jack

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[Shawki Shlemon]

I follow this thread regularly and is of great interest to me , you are doing a nice job of it and wish you all the best of luck , I know you don't need any luck with the skills you have but never the less , all the best .

[jbodenmann]

Thank You Shawki
I have been following the progress on your locomotive and you don't do so bad yourself!
Jack

[alanstepney]

the front was stuck on with #00-90 screws

Just to help others here, that is about 15BA.
Or to put it another way, B...... small!

[jbodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Here are a few shots of the tender drawbar pocket.

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[jbodenmann]

Upside down.

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