smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Jul 2, 2010 14:53:24 GMT
Does the inner dome require a gasket and/or some sealing compound to seal it on the flange?
Thanks,
Pete.
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Post by alanstepney on Jul 3, 2010 7:20:08 GMT
Yes.
It is possible to get a seal with perfectly machined faces, but a gasket is much easier and less liable to leak.
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Jul 4, 2010 9:05:28 GMT
Thanks for the reply.
When we fired it up a few months ago there was leakage all around the inner dome so it can't be perfectly flat on both faces.
I guess the usual paper gasket would be appropriate. I have some compound too - presumably this would do no harm.
I want to test the boiler is sound prior to stripping it down to sort out the siezed regulator.
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Post by drjohn on Jul 5, 2010 11:43:28 GMT
Thanks for the reply. When we fired it up a few months ago there was leakage all around the inner dome so it can't be perfectly flat on both faces. I guess the usual paper gasket would be appropriate. I have some compound too - presumably this would do no harm. I want to test the boiler is sound prior to stripping it down to sort out the siezed regulator. Concentric grooves in the mating surface of the inner dome and bush plus a gasket are really the only way to seal it satisfactorily DJ (who also had a leaky inner dome on this latest Simplex)
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Jul 6, 2010 13:34:56 GMT
Is there much I can do to the bush without stripping the whole thing down?
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Post by drjohn on Jul 7, 2010 20:35:17 GMT
As long as the bush is a good flat surface, I'd leave it alone, but certainly make some light grooves in the dome so that the pressure contact on the bush by the gasket is greater.
DJ
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Post by Deleted on Jul 17, 2010 22:33:24 GMT
Hi DJ,
From what you write I infer that you cured your problem by using grooves and a gasket.
I'd be grateful for more gen on that, i.e. number / size of grooves and gasket type / material.
Cheers,
Gareth.
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Post by drjohn on Jul 17, 2010 23:53:26 GMT
Hi Gareth, yes I cured my leak - 3 grooves about 1/64" wide and deep and I just used steam gasket the same as on the cylinder covers, but I know others use a thicker more fibrous gasket material.
I have to say that the dome seems a bit like a cylinder head on a car - needs to be tightened down after a few hours steaming - maybe because of the area of contact - dunno.
DJ
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Post by Deleted on Jul 19, 2010 13:17:29 GMT
Thanks DJ: I'll give that a try.
I like the sound of mating grooves between dome and bush but the boiler's a bit of a tight fit in the 4 jaw. ;D
Cheers,
Gareth.
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Post by drjohn on Jul 19, 2010 13:55:37 GMT
Teach you to buy deckport and bridgel stuff - get a good Chinese one and you'll get the boiler in no probs!! ;D ;D ;D
DJ
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Aug 12, 2010 8:51:46 GMT
Slow progress on this I'm afraid.
Checking the "original" screws I find they are a mix of 6 and 7 BA, and also the lengths vary. The drawing shows 6 BA.
The bush seems to be 7/16" depth as per drawing. What is the normal length of thread/depth of hole?
The dome fits evenly on the bush with a gasket in place. Prior to the gasket, the dome rocked slightly from side to side. The dome sits square on the lathe bed, so I assume the problem is with the bush. Fingers crossed, the gasket will relieve this slight uneveness. I will try grooves if not.
Pete.
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Aug 12, 2010 9:49:36 GMT
A thread depth of 1.5 times the diameter of the bolt/screw is what you need . Any extra does no harm or good .
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Sept 2, 2010 20:27:42 GMT
I have bought some taps/dies and have tried to re-tap the holes, successfully in most cases. 10 of the 12 holes now take the new 6BA screws of length 3/8".
I am left with 2 adjoining holes that won't take a 6BA tap. Can I drill these out to make them larger, if so, what size bit for a 6BA, and can I use an ordinary hand drill?
Two of the 3/8" screws won't go to their full depth but I guess some washers will be ok to ensure a tight joint. Is this ok or do these holes need to be drilled deeper?
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Post by 2tenths on Sept 2, 2010 21:26:09 GMT
I am left with 2 adjoining holes that won't take a 6BA tap. Can I drill these out to make them larger, if so, what size bit for a 6BA, and can I use an ordinary hand drill Hi 2.3 or No 49 tapping size for 6 B A and yes , if you can get a hand drill in then ok HTH regards Tony
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Post by alanstepney on Sept 3, 2010 7:04:59 GMT
...but I guess some washers will be ok to ensure a tight joint.
I'm not keen on "some washers". One washer is fine, but if you need more than that, either drill deeper, or file the screws down a little.
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smallbrother
Elder Statesman
Errors aplenty, progress slow, but progress nonetheless!
Posts: 2,269
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Post by smallbrother on Sept 3, 2010 7:41:39 GMT
Thanks for advice gentlemen.
Pete.
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