A Couple More Pictures

[ron]

A couple more pictures of progress despite decorating, over indulging and clearing up storm wreckage!

Painting the wheels before turning them worked well. I did four more for the driving truck first to get a bit of practice. I'm a bit held up now with the chassis waiting for hornblock castings from Blackgates.
The buffers were quite time consuming.


I was only the assistant for soldering the tubes!

[Myford Matt]

Very nice work - some close-ups of the chassis would be nice.

MM

[jones]

That looks amazing Ron, keep up the good work!
What did the tool that you used for the wheels look like? They look great!

Andrew

[Steve M. W]

Well done Ron, are you putting a hole in the front stretcher and did your wheels come with the weights cast in mine from Reeves haven’t

Steve

[ron]

Thanks folks ;D, the wheel castings are from Blackgates with counterweights cast in and are very good quality, the spokes only needed a bit of filing to remove casting flash and the metal machined beautifully. The driving truck wheel castings were Simplex ones from Ebay and were, to put it politely at the other end of the quality spectrum! although they did the job the spokes will need a lot more finishing, even for a driving truck.
I coned the wheels after asking advice on here, after facing the front and back I made a mandrel in the 3 jaw, mounted each wheel in turn and turned the treads to a rough shape slightly oversize.
Andrew, I ground a TCT tool to the angle and root radius of the flange, locked the carriage in postion and shaped all 10 flanges identically. I then did the treads with the same tool, top slide at 2 degrees and with the rest locked I turned the treads on the mandrel using the top slide, all at the same setting. The outer edge of the flange was radiused with a file.
Steve, didn't know about a hole in the front stretcher, there isn't one shown in the drawing, is one needed?
Matt, I'll post a couple of close ups when I've done a bit more work on the chassis [that's if Blackgates ever send me the hornblock castings ]
As anyone who's turned a lot of cast iron will tell you this is a dirty filthy job that requires a good dust mask to be worn and I don't think my lathe will ever be clean again! plus the slabs outside the workshop are all stained rust colour now ;D
Ron

[lancelot]

Looking great, Ron. a few strategically placed magnets around the lathe pan will take care of most of the cuttings, definitely a ''dust mask'' I know what occurs when you dont.
All the best for now,
John.

[Laurie_B]

Excellent work Ron.
I know just what you mean about the amount of work involved in making buffer assembles, having recently made some for the model loco that I'm building.
Regarding the swarf/dust problem,I keep a few old paint brushes handy in the workshop.They are very good,I find,at getting the swarf out of machine table tee slots,lead screws and most places where it ends up!

[paul]

Hey Ron, I hate to mention this but I spotted a mistake in your top image - the wheels go on the sides mate!! LOL

Seriously, nice work!

[ron]

Ah, maybe I should have read the instructions

Ron

Getting ready for another session of silver soldering

[baggo]

Looking good Ron. You'll be needing that 'bunnet' sooner than you think!

John

PS don't forget to get a nice fillet on that barrel to throatplate joint

[simonwass]

You might like to try leaving the door plate off until the side stays are in, lets more air in and allows a better view. The few stays in the door plate are close to the grate opening so are easy enough.
If you have some, roll a bit of 1/8" square copper to fit to the throatplate join, gives a lot more area for silver solder to do its stuff. The joint is ok though as the throatplate is always restrained by the boiler barrel.

[ducatibob]

Brilliant boiler work and soldering. I have recently completed my Simplex and it is is very good fun.