paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Jul 9, 2007 20:15:09 GMT
Though I'd create yet another thread and make the 'Stationary Engines' section look busy ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png) Here's most of the parts I've made, assembled and sitting on their 'base-to-be'. But wait.... what's this... a clean bit of workshop?? Yeah, after a weekend's worth of re-arranging the garage my 'workshop' now has a clean bench. (Let's see how long that lasts!!). ![](http://www.artefact-rescue.co.uk/img/progress.jpg)
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Post by jgb7573 on Jul 9, 2007 20:28:20 GMT
Looking good Paul. And not just the bench ![;)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/wink.png)
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Aug 28, 2007 21:29:01 GMT
Finally got a little time to do a fraction more - roughed out the port 'block'. It's a pretty tight push fit so need to make some space for solder ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) There's also no dimensions given in the plans for how much it should project from the cylinder so need to 'make to suit'. ![](http://www.artefact-rescue.co.uk/img/cylprog.jpg)
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Sept 17, 2007 19:35:34 GMT
Now the guts of the steam chest is done too: ![](http://www.artefact-rescue.co.uk/img/engineprogress.jpg)
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Post by jgb7573 on Sept 18, 2007 8:12:44 GMT
Coming good Paul.
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Nov 3, 2007 21:51:06 GMT
Following jgb7573's good advice I de-soldered the neck of the steam chest, fitted a new plug then re-drilled, threaded etc in the 4-jaw to ensure concentricity. My nearest reamer is about 1/3mm oversize so there's a bit of slop in the valve rod (which kind of defeated the purpose of re-making) but hopefully if I can get the hole in the gland nut closer to size that'll help the smoothness factor. Got the cover to size and drilled all the holes. Everything looking good. Until I noticed that the holes should have been more like 2.5mm than 3! I really should look more carefully before leaping. Ack, no matter, it just means the nuts or bolt heads will have to be a little slimmer to avoid overhanging the edges of the cover... can I get hex in 5mm AF AND thread it to 3mm? We'll see! Anyway, here's the bits in question. ![](http://www.artefact-rescue.co.uk/img/schest.jpg)
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lancelot
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 471
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Post by lancelot on Nov 3, 2007 22:27:14 GMT
Hi Paul, been there and done that a few times ;D...One size smaller setscrews and the same of nuts can be obtained from E.K.P or G.L R.... very useful in a lot of situations... All the best for now, John.
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Post by jgb7573 on Nov 5, 2007 10:13:24 GMT
Hi Paul,
You could always make the valve rod 1/3rd of a mm bigger to fit the hole ;-) . Adjusting dimensions elsewhere if need be.
As an alternative, make a reamer out of silver steel to the size you want. Get a piece of silver steel. Turn it down to the required diameter. Then file off the business end on a slant so you get an oval flat end to the piece. I find a gentle angle (20 to 30 degrees) best. Then harden and temper. Rub the angled end on a sharpening stone until it is nice and smooth and you have yourself a reamer. It won't take out a lot of metal, but if you're a few tenths of a mm undersized with the drilled hole, it will open it out a treat.
John
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Nov 5, 2007 17:52:31 GMT
John (lancelot): noted! It sounds easier than custom-making all those little fittings ![:)](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/smiley.png) John (jgb7573): Sounds like a sort of d-bit and definitely worth remembering (no doubt I'll forget and have to ask you to remind me though!). Thanks both ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png)
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paul
Member
Posts: 8
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Post by paul on Nov 5, 2007 21:52:20 GMT
New valve rod almost made ![:D](//storage.proboards.com/forum/images/smiley/grin.png)
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