Myford ML10 Leadscrew Dog Clutch

[bobcha]

I have just bought a Myford ML10 lathe but it does not have the dog clutch on the lead screw.I was thinking that maybe I could make one and wondered if any one has done this or has some close up photos that would help me to see how the clutch is made. I am fairly new to this game having started with a Mini Lathe about a year ago I can see how the clutch works but cant see how the lead screw is retained in position.Would be very much obliged with any help.

[kingsteam9]

I have the Myford clutch on my ML10 and the only thing which retains the leadscrew in position is the nut/handle on the right hand end, plus the left hand end running in the sliding sleeve of the clutch. I've not experienecd any problems with that since I fitted it.

Best bet would be to copy the Myford one - it's nice and simple and works well.

Robin

[joegib]

As it happens the leadscrew clutch is off my ML10 at the moment. If you can bear with me I'll take some photos of the parts over the weekend.

Joe

[joegib]

Please find below photos of the ML10 leadscrew clutch parts.

The first photo shows most of the parts:



The remaining parts, comprising an L-bracket with a pin to secure the lever and the bolt for securing the bracket to the lathe bed, are shown in the second photo (I can't remove these from the lathe as I'd have to remove the leadscrew to do so):



The only part not illustrated is the Nyloc nut that secures the lever to the bracket.

Joe

[bobcha]

Joe.
Thanks very much that is brilliant shows the parts that are hidden on the images of the lathe with the clutch fitted. Very kind of you to take the photos and post them I am very much obliged.

Charlie.

[joegib]

Hi Charlie,

Glad they're of help. If you need detailed dimensions or a description of fitting/operation, post a further query. Just a few additional notes that are not obvious from the photos:—

(a) If you look closely at the clutch body, you'll see that there are 2 notches/slots cut laterally, a longer one on the left and shorter one on the right — these are where the screw pins engage to apply drive.

(b) Internally, the the right-hand end of the clutch body has a bronze or oilite bush extending to about where the split in the leadscrew occurs when the clutch is disengaged.

Joe

[Ansty]

Hi Joe

Thanks for the photo as I was also looking for the same thing.

Will need to get to make one now!

Thanks again

Brian

[bobcha]

Hi Joe,
I have just gotten around to start making the dog clutch think I have worked out the dimensions but would be interested if you could supply the length of the stop collar.
Regards Charlie.

[joegib]

Hi Charlie,

The overall length of the stop collar is 0.562". The larger diameter portion is 0.356" long while the smaller diameter is 0.206" long.

Incidentally, I'd assumed that as the ML10 variant lathes are no longer in production, and the Myford site doesn't mention the clutch kit components in their parts lists, that the kit is not now available. Not so it seems — I gather that a user on another site was able to obtain a kit from them though the price he paid wasn't specified. So people who'd rather buy a kit should give Myford a ring.

Joe

[bobcha]

Thanks Joe,
I had assumed that the kit was no longer available as it was not mentioned on the Myford site I will get in touch with them but I expect that the price will be quite high if they do have one.Any way It will keep me occupied for a while if I make one and will be good practice for a beginner.I first bought a 7 X 14 mini lathe from Amadeal but saw the ML10 for sale in the local paper for £300.00 complete with two Pratt & Burnard chucks four sets of Myford tools some reamers brand new motor and reversing switch and a Myford stand.The motor was in its box and had never been opened the lathe was covered in old grease and did not look as if it had ever been used which seems incredible it left Myfords in March 1977.The tools still had the plastic protection over the ends the chucks were in their original cardboard boxes wrapped in the protective paper,all the gear wheels were there these and the leadscrew were the only things with any rust on them but only surface stuff.I had started to make a hot air engine on the mini lathe and was quite pleased with it have now started to use the Myford to make this clutch must say it has a completely different feel to it. Looking at the two machines it does not seem possible that the mini lathe has a slightly bigger capacity. Although the Myford seems to be a much better lathe I still like the mini lathe it is very accurate and for the money seems to be a good bit of kit and Amadeal are a very helpful company to deal with.

Regards Charlie

[bobcha]

Been in touch with Myfords the dog clutch kit is available for £78.02 including VAT & postage.Think I will carry on making one.

[joegib]

Hi Charlie,

Well, the information's no doubt handy for those who'd rather buy than make the unit. Stiff price though! Still, I suppose we must be thankful that Myford are still in the game. They take some stick on prices but I dare say that a comparable assembly from Boxford, Colchester or even EMCO would have run to three figures.

Looks like you got a excellent deal on your ML10 found 'in aspic'. Something similar happened to me a couple of years ago when I chanced on an advert for a Speed 10-type bed plus leadscrew that had been supplied by Myford as parts but then stored for 20 years in its original packaging. Not cheap, though — it cost me only slightly less than your complete ML10. Even so, it answered a longstanding itch I'd had about the limited between-centres length of the basic ML10.

As you imply, the work envelope of the standard ML10 is nominally smaller than the 14 inch bed C3 Minilathe but it's a much sturdier, more accurate machine. Also, judging by the number of Web stories about the fragility of the C3 circuitry, I've never trusted their electrics. Still, they represent a decent entry point for newcomers.

Coming back to the ML10, if you've any spare browsing time you might like to have a look at the videos of 'myfordboy' here:

www.youtube.com/user/myfordboy?blend=2&ob=1

Most are concerned with metal casting and are enjoyable enough in themselves. But he's also an ML10 user and has interesting set-ups for machining quite big model components on his machine.

Joe

[ke1th]

Hi All

I've just found this (old) thread whilst searching for the dimensions of the ML10 leadscrew dog clutch, and I'm hoping that someone will be able to fill in the blanks. I've checked with Myford today and they don't have the clutch in stock.

I used to own an early ML10 and I had fitted a leadscrew clutch to it, but due to a lack of space I sold the lathe about 15 years ago for a lot less than it was worth. Now I've got a bit more space for a small workshop and I've recently bought an old ML10 via ebay. It's not as pristine as my last one, but it'll be fun to strip it and rebuild it. While I'm at it I intend to fit a leadscrew clutch to this one too as I found it to be very useful in screwcutting.

While looking for more information on the ML10, I found an excellent photo record of a later ML10 restoration at www.rvwerks.com/project/20/myford-ml10

This time around I intend to slightly automate the disconnection of the clutch via a pull-off spring and detent on the operating lever, with an adjustable switch and electrically operated solenoid to release the detent at the end of the cut. Hopefully that approach will avoid the tool burying itself into the workpiece or headstock due to my slow reaction times / absentmindedness when I'm cutting under power!

Thanks to joegib's comments and parts photo above I think I can scale most of the dimensions. Clearly, as the parts fit together the sizes aren't critical as long as they match each other but if someone could kindly confirm some of the missing dimensions (particularly the overall diameter and length) from a Myford original clutch then it would probably look more natural on the lathe. I'm not likely to get this underway for a couple of months due to other commitments, so if anyone could fill in any of the blanks in the meantime it would be very welcome.

I thought that I'd create and gradually populate a list of dimensions in preparation:

A. Stop Collar
left side diameter = ??
right side diameter = ?? (same as clutch body diameter?)
internal diameter = ?? (fit to leadscrew)
overall length = 0.562"
left side length = 0.206"
right side length = 0.356"
locating grub screw size = ??

B. Screw Pins
head diameter = ?? (to match clutch body slots)
head height above leadscrew = ?? (half the difference between clutch body diameter and leadscrew diameter?)
screw depth into leadscrew = ??

C. Clutch body
external overall diameter = ??
overall length = ??
left side shoulder length = ??
right side shoulder length = ??
groove length = ?? (to match pivot guide width)
groove diameter or depth = ?? (to match pivot guide thickness)
long slot length = ??
short slot length = ??
slot width = ?? (to match screw pin heads)
internal diameter = ?? (fit to leadscrew via oilite bush)

D. Pivot guide
material = brass or bronze??
block dimensions = ??
pin length = ??
pin diameter = ?? (to match lever top hole diameter)


E. Washer

F. Lever
overall length = ??
overall width = ??
thickness (unmachined?) at top hole shoulder = ??
thickness (machined?) at bottom hole shoulder = ??
bottom hole to top hole centres distance = ??
bottom hole (fixing bolt) diameter = ??
top hole (pivot pin) diameter = ??

Thanks in advance

Keith

[dc]

Thank you for this information. I purchased a Myford Ml10 from EBay about a month ago. It was ay brand new lathe still in Original grease from 1975. It was stored in an electrical wholesaler. I was bidding on a Unimat 3 because I only wanted a small lathe but they are now fetching £1100 with equipment.
The Ml10 cost me £1,000 plus £100 for delivery. All original equipment appears to have been included.