Bobber Caboose

[jbodenmann]

And here is one with most of the blobs and bits attached. Once again weathering was done mostly with rattle cans and sandpaper. Too much fun.. ;D I really enjoy this aspect of model building as it's just sticking your thumb out and making things look good.
Jack

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[jbodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Here are a few more shots of the caboose showing the stove and floor. The floor was distressed a bit giving it dings scratches and sanding to simulate wear and tear, also some hatchet marks in front of the stove where kindling would have been prepared. Then some black chalk was rubbed in, and then sanded some more being careful to sand less around the edges. Then a shot of clear lacquer sanding sealer. The sheet metal under the stove was dinged up and given a shot of red oxide primer to simulate rust and then a misting of dark gray and light gray primer. Then using very fine sandpaper it was sanded to bare metal where the most wear would have taken place. The stove was also given the treatment with all three colors of primer.

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[jbodenmann]

Here is a peek in the end door with the roof removed to allow better lighting. You can see how the distressing and chalk adds character to the floor. You can just imagine the crew scampering about. The interior walls and cabinets will be painted light green and will also get the treatment.

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[jbodenmann]

Last one for now, a shot in the door with the roof on. More dramatic but less visible detail.
Too much fun!
Jack

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[Deleted]

lovely work Jack, first class weathering....first class everything in fact..

Pete

[Shawki Shlemon]

This is a great model , no doubt about that . Mike , if you want to shrink to fit in the model , how about eating/drinking what Alic in wonderland did in her dream . ;D .

[jbodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Sometimes shrinking down and fitting inside would certainly come in handy. Then the caboose could be swept out with this little broom that was cobbled together.
Too much fun..
Jack

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[jbodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Here is the latest trinket for the caboose. There are actually two of them, one over the conductors desk, and one over the bunk down the other end. The wiring was built into the walls and the batteries and switches will live in one of the bunks. The lamps use mag light bulbs.
Jack

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[jbodenmann]

Hello My Friends
How small is small? 1-1/2" scale doesn't seem small, or does it. My favorite scale is 3/4", which seems large if you model gauge 1, or perhaps O gauge. But no matter how you slice it this is a small part. It is the knob that fits to the end of the shaft that would be the wick adjustor if this was an actual oil lamp. The hole is .020" which is a #76 drill. These tiny drill bits snap off really easy. Real easy...SNAP!. The OD of the part is .092. Now this seems small but is actually quite over scale. If made to scale the hole would only be about .010" and the OD would be .078". Which would seem large, compared to the same part in 3/4" scale...So I guess small is a relative term.

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[jbodenmann]

Here is one of the lamps with the little knob and chimney holder fitted up.
Too much fun!
Jack

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[jbodenmann]

Here are a few more that you may find useful. Many of our models have lights both simulated oil, and electric. Over the years many different lamps have been tried. Grain of wheat, with leads that needed to be soldered. Miniature screw in lamps, (at times vary hard to find), in both 6 and 12 volt. These little Mag Light bulbs seem to work fine and are both inexpensive and easy to find. They operate in 1-1/2 volts and can be powered with a couple AA or AAA batteries.

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[jbodenmann]

To hold the little lamps a simple socket is made out of plastic. Teflon or Delrin works just fine, but use what you have on hand. Here a short length of 3/16" Delrin has had two 1/16" holes drilled through. A #26 gauge wire lead has been soldered to a piece if 1/16" brass tube. Two leads and two pieces of tube are required for each socket. The tubing is pressed into the holes to form the socket.

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[jbodenmann]

In this photo the leads and tubes have been pressed into the plastic and the lamp fitted. You will have to put some kinks in the lamp leads to help the lamp stay in the socket.

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[jbodenmann]

Here is sort of an exploded view of the lamp bits so you can see how things fit together.

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[jbodenmann]

And here are the lamp bits stuck together. You can just see the bulb sticking out the top. Next up, a water tank with faucet, and a sink so the crew can wash up.
Happy Model Building
Your Friend
Jack

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[Prowe]

Hi Jack,
I am truly amazed by the quality of your work and I won't even mention the speed that you seem to turn everything out at. However this time I cannot fathom out how you have produced the glass chimney, it certainly looks to be glass as opposed to any turned acrylic type material.
Please let us in on your secret.

Phil

[jbodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Good question Phil, I have tried to make glass chimneys and I am afraid I must admit that is one little puzzle that has stumped me. I went to a local glass blower person and had him make me a gaggle of them. He has several glass blowing lathes and made it look disgustingly easy.
See you in the funny pages..
Jack

[jbodenmann]

Hello My Friends
Here is the latest concerning the Bobber Caboose. Every good caboose must have a sink so the crew can wash up. The tank is made from 1" thin wall brass tube. The sink from 1/32" copper sheet. The sink was formed over a large steel ball bearing using a rubber mallet. Then the rim was soft soldered on. The tank holds water and if you open the tap water runs out. Too much fun!
Happy model building.
Jack

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[ilvaporista]

Incredible. Is it hot water with a working steam heat coil? ;D I am joking by the way.

[Jason]

The attention to detail is amazing, just when I think I have seen it all you go one step further!!!!!!

Keep the photos coming!