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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2010 15:45:11 GMT
Made a couple of prototypes today. I didn't have any 3mm sq brass so I used the new collet holder and made a two piece plug pressed in from the back: outer rim and inner plug. Both are 9mm diameter, RH is 3.25mm sq, the LH one is slightly less. Both look scale-ish but far too fiddly if I have to make 18 off. I'll buy some 3mm sq brass and put spigots on so they can go straight in to the inner! The firehole is bigger than specified, so I'm now drawing out the revised sliding doors.... JB  |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 18, 2010 17:34:15 GMT
I'm thinking of taking up armour suit making! This is made from 1/32" galvanised steel. It's intended to be just a practice piece, as I haven't a clue how to attach it to the end bits and I am bound to screw it up! - no pun intended.... I made the mistake of drilling the washout holes before I bent it. That is a weak point which gives a nice neat bend at the hole centres as soon as any bending stress is put on the thing. I've beaten them out best I can but I might just make another one: having looked at the Modelworks cladding there is an extension piece at the front to mate up with the crown piece. I'm also going to saw off that ridiculous regulator stub and mount the bracket on the steel cladding! JB   |
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Nov 23, 2010 8:49:36 GMT
Very nice JB , do you clean the hammer too or is it new?
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Post by Deleted on Nov 23, 2010 9:23:11 GMT
Very nice JB , do you clean the hammer too or is it new? Hi Shawki. I use the hard nylon hammer on the bench there most of the time, but I do have the proper hammerheads and sets for the tricky bits! BTW, that's just a practice piece because I mistakenly omitted the 'ears' at the front. The 0.7mm stainless sheet should be here tomorrow! JB |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 26, 2010 17:33:43 GMT
Stainless steel sheet received and I need a break from jewellery making!Marking out the barrel cladding for regulator pivot, washouts, upper clacks and handrail knobs. The throatplate join has rather pronounced weld material, so the cladding piece will have to be shaped round it and the boiler cladding tightened over it. I'm going to put the regulator bracket on the cladding. I had a fright when I sawed off the welded boss. I was filing down the weld, getting close to the boiler surface, and I suddenly saw the outline of the 10mm boss appear in the weld surface. I had an awful feeling that the boss was in a drilled hole and I'd just filed away the welded joint! All sorts of thoughts whizzed through my head - like where do I get it welded up and tested etc., etc. - but I just kept filing and the join line disappeared and I was down to the boiler surface. Big sigh of relief. The boss had been placed on the surface and welded to it! JB 
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Post by Deleted on Nov 27, 2010 15:36:00 GMT
I suddenly realised that I shouldn't do the barrel cladding until I had a throatplate! It was just a straightforward tinbashing job, so there are no sequence pics. Mind you, I should have disregarded the Words and Music and made one of these when I built the original boiler..... I presume that I just make a clean joint between the throatplate top and the upper piece, cut off the temporary band, and cover the barrel cladding at the joint with a boiler band or other gadget? All advice appreciated. JB   |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2010 18:46:22 GMT
Decided to put my money where my mouth is this afternoon and cut the stainless sheet for the boiler wrapper. The home-made shear works a treat and cuts straight lines too!  The material was obtained from 'Inspired Steel' on ebay. It is 304 Grade 2B, and was very easy to work and drill. The same gent made me some 5mm (couldn't go any smaller) stainless boiler bands which will be just the job. BTW the Chronos step drill doesn't drill round holes in 0.7mm stainless. Mind you, I didn't clamp the work down....  The wrapper is held on underneath by a strong bracket. The whole thing needs to be eased back a fraction at the shoulders as one of the safety valves is out of position. I haven't worried about scale representation at the firebox joint: I just wanted to get it wrapped and looking reasonable! I will make a stainless firebox wrapper later this week.  Seems a pity to paint it really....  |
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Post by railwaydog on Nov 29, 2010 20:11:36 GMT
HI JB the brit,s comeing along well, looks super, will we see her at the frostbite run on the 1 jan as myself and the old man hope to bring the the 3.1/2 gauge lner maisie and battle the cold cheers be lucky ian&jim
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Post by Deleted on Nov 29, 2010 23:29:17 GMT
Coming on nicely - will you be using U-pol to prime the cladding? I bet it' good at resisting dings too. Nice shear handle......18 or 24 carat? Regards. Mike It would appear after some research that acid etch is not needed if the surface is lightly abraded with 360 or 400 wet and dry, and allowed to 'passivate' for a short time. This permits the metal to create its own chemical resistance to corrosion. However, I'll do both I think! Yes, I have an aversion to thin sheet brass as it sheds paint like there's no tomorrow and a small boy only has to break wind as he passes it to make an impression.... JB PS. It's a wardrobe pole! |
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Post by drjohn on Dec 1, 2010 10:40:54 GMT
'e's back!! I do not understand all this glorification of JB - he bought the frames and the wheels, and then bought a boiler having failed miserably with his own attempt. Outsourced the painting of all the bits and despite his cheapo bench shears, got someone else to make his boiler bands!   So at the end of the day, he's made a few rods and now a bit of unfinished cladding on the boiler (I notice with no insulation) and everyone goes into raptures   C'mon JB, finish this little one a put it in a glass case, then build a real one to pull your ego around a track!! ;D ;D ;D ;D DJ - back from the dead!! With tongue firmly in cheek!  |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2010 12:06:44 GMT
Talk about pots and black kettles! I know it's been a bit quiet around here but I hope no-one takes DJ's bait: I can look after myself thanks. Mind you, it did make me laugh! Herewith boiler with wrapper (and some very nice foil backed fibreglass insulation - DJ take note!). The wrapper slides down the taper boiler as it is tightened up so it needs a positive location at the firebox end somehow. I need to make another smokebox as the original was made to LBSC dimensions and is now far too small a diameter now I've clad the boiler. That means a new smokebox ring as well! Good job I like tinbashing.... JB  Better idea of size difference here:  |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2010 17:02:00 GMT
2.5mm copper ring added to the original tube plate to accomodate the bigger smokebox. Nice insulation that: pity I can't get any more of it!  Sizing piece only: and it looks a great deal better. The double row of rivets will sit nicely against the boiler band. I hope you agree!  |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2010 17:32:36 GMT
Looking good JB, well insulated too....  Pete |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 1, 2010 17:36:33 GMT
I think so. It's only the people who are too far removed and therefore become insulated that become troublesome! JB |
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Dec 2, 2010 9:26:36 GMT
Good to see you back DJ , I see the hobby from a different view , everyone to his own , makes /buy / part make and part buy / etc..whatever makes one happy .All I can say it looks great . DJ for a doctor you do extremely well , not very often one sees a doctor getting his/her nails dirty .
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2010 9:50:52 GMT
.All I can say it looks great . Thanks for your support Shawki, but you took DJ's bait.....! JB |
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Post by drjohn on Dec 2, 2010 11:13:23 GMT
Ha Shawki - I remember delivering a baby while dressed in my greasy boiler suit straight from the workshop when building my first loco - that was the first time I wore gloves to do a delivery, to prevent leaving cast iron dust all over everything - until then I never wore gloves - couldn't feel a thing with them on and everything slipped out of your fingers - bit like condoms really!!!  DJ JB is so precise about everything, and goes on about "when I was in the army" etc - it always brings to mind the following clip - I know I've posted it before, but it still tickles my humour. dr-john.org/temp/porridge1.wmv |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 2, 2010 16:57:38 GMT
This firebox wrapper will do, I think. The six holes follow the line of the firebox roof, i.e. slope down by 1/8" towards the rear. I hope that's right! Looking at the Winson 5" kit the wrapper is secured to the mantle by three socking great bolts on top. I think I spotted a cheese head screw somewhere as well! I was thinking of using countersunk invisible rivets, thus permanently attaching the wrapper to the mantle, so that it just drops onto the firebox and the boiler wrapper secures it. All advice appreciated, and you can be as precise as you like....JB 
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Post by drjohn on Dec 3, 2010 9:10:33 GMT
JB - you've now posted 25 pictures of your boiler and its cladding - very lovely, but for the newer model engineers, it might have been helpful to show how you drilled or cut the not quite round holes in the cladding rather the pictures of the finished (or almost finished) product. Just a suggestion. Incidentally, with the aluminium cladding of your insulation against stainless steel and copper, when a bit of moisture gets in between, there will be a battery effect with resultant corrosion. DJ P.S. Not being personal so you don't have to switch off skype! ;D ;D |
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Post by Deleted on Dec 3, 2010 9:42:24 GMT
For the newbies: from an earlier post in this thread should anyone be bothered to read it properly.....
BTW the Chronos step drill doesn't drill round holes in 0.7mm stainless. Mind you, I didn't clamp the work down....
I will have to clean up the holes, but the dummy plugs will hide any minor imperfections.
If members don't want the pictures then perhaps they could ask DJ to supply some constructive (as opposed to the usual destructive) material for this Forum.
JB
Stamping his foot petulantly!
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