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Post by Deleted on Nov 9, 2010 21:28:54 GMT
LBSC didn't give me any instructions on boiler cladding, so I'm flying a kite here! I've seen so many scabby (pardon, my opinion!) backheads on models that I thought I would at least try and improve matters by fitting a 16g brass backhead plate. As you can see it fits over the all of the bushes, and it will probably look quite nice when the dummy stayheads and firebox doors are fitted and it is painted satin black. I currently have no idea how to attach the firebox cladding to it: I have some nice thin galvanised steel sheet for that job. I suspect that I will use a few pieces of brass angle at strategic points, but if anyone has a better idea? I will probably attach the bottom edge to the foundation ring with a couple of csk screws. I thought about making a wooden former and beating some copper into shape for the transition to the boiler barrel. All advice appreciated. JB   |
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Post by drjohn on Nov 9, 2010 21:54:05 GMT
Without trying to be unhelpful JB, two things strike me.
1) The plain flat backhead looks most unrealistic - I'm sure someone will post pictures of the full size, and it looked nothing like that.
2) I must say I personally can't see past brass sheet for the cladding - unless you attempt to galvanise the cut edges of the steel plate, it's doomed to rust and corrosion (even in a glass case!)
DJ
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chris vine
Elder Statesman
Posts: 2,193
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Post by chris vine on Nov 9, 2010 21:56:52 GMT
Hi JB, For Bongo, I bashed up a bit of brass into a rounded angle strip. That was what B1s had, although it was steel of course. If that is what Brits had then you could do the same. It took less time to do than to think about!! Chris. Attachments:
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Post by drumkilbo on Nov 10, 2010 9:05:16 GMT
You get a glimpse of the rounded edge of the backhead cover in 2 photos here JB. I'll be particularly interested to see how you form the bit of cladding between the fire box part and the cylindrical part of the boiler as I have this to do for a 'Hall' boiler. www.britanniabuilder.com/kit18c.htmIan |
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Post by arch1947 on Nov 10, 2010 20:18:59 GMT
G'Day JB, The backhead of Virginia was pretty ordinary too so I formed a cover out of thin gauge brass. I beat it over an MDF former and made it deeper than needed so that when I trimmed it to size I removed any creases or pleats. It is secured by the rear boiler band and the odd flange under the valves. The valves seal OK and the flange holds the cover in place.
I'd post a photo if I could figure out how to attach one.
Cheers,
Arch
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Post by Deleted on Nov 10, 2010 23:11:41 GMT
Thanks for the constructive feedback. It looks like I will be making a thinner backhead cover with rounded edges! Meanwhile, the bits came back from the stove enamellers today, and I cannot believe how nice the result is. It's a shiny satin finish, but I like it very much. Lots of body! They took all the paint off the various bits I gave them, bead blasted everything, and it all really looks the biz, especially things like the piston valve barrels, motion brackets and valve guide supports. £30 the lot! I will take the wheels there next week as they are not up to the same standard as the rest of it! The Company is Trestan Finishers of Woolston, Southampton. I couldn't resist a little 'trial assembly'!  The valve gear doesn't look too bad against it either....   |
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Post by Jim on Nov 11, 2010 8:29:02 GMT
Very, very nice JB and I like the nice details like the prototypical castellated nuts on the end of the crank pins. That'll be another detail job to do and of course fit the split pins  Is your Brit a 5"g or 3.5"g? Whichever you've done a great job. Jim |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2010 9:12:16 GMT
Jim
It's a 3.5". It's what LBSC called 'Jewellery Work!
I've yet to work out a way to put a nut on the csk screw that holds the front coupling rod on, just like the original.
JB
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Nov 11, 2010 9:36:31 GMT
Well done JB , I wish I had your patience and do such nice detailed work . I wish you all the best for steaming it .
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pondok
Part of the e-furniture
My 5" gauge SAR class 15F
Posts: 359
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Post by pondok on Nov 11, 2010 9:42:11 GMT
Just breathtaking
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2010 9:43:20 GMT
I wish you all the best for steaming it . Shawki At least you are steaming yours: I have a way to go yet! It's all a question of balance really, like most objectives in this life...... JB |
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Post by drumkilbo on Nov 11, 2010 12:24:36 GMT
Superb finish on everything JB, you can't beat outside valve gear for interest especially when it looks like that.
Ian
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russell
Statesman
Chain driven
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Post by russell on Nov 11, 2010 14:35:06 GMT
Looks brilliant Simplyloco. The trouble with pictures like those is that I'm not sure if they make me try harder or want to give up!
Russell.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2010 14:46:39 GMT
The trouble with pictures like those is that I'm not sure if they make me try harder or want to give up! Russell. At school they always said I must try harder. It took me a long time to take notice! JB |
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Post by baggo on Nov 11, 2010 14:53:45 GMT
Very impressive JB  Could you not replace the csk in the retaining cap with a flat bottom counterbore as on the full size? You could then use either a bolt or a stud/nut rather than the csk screw. It looks as though clearances are pretty tight between the cap and the connecting rod so you wouldn't want the nut to protrude too far. John |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2010 15:58:19 GMT
Could you not replace the csk in the retaining cap with a flat bottom counterbore as on the full size? You could then use either a bolt or a stud/nut rather than the csk screw. John Thanks John. that sounds like the way to go! JB |
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Post by Deleted on Nov 11, 2010 17:49:52 GMT
Enough of this self-congratulation! On with the cladding! Our Club loco builder (he makes them for other people) suggested a decent thickness copper for the backhead cover, and if you need it, place a tapping strip inside it. A flange plate was made up on an MDF former, and a plate knocked up from 18g copper. The Autocad template that was sent to the boilermakers was used to mark out the holes for the bushes. I only drilled the centre hole first, well undersize, to make sure that the plate would hang in the right place.  It did!  The remainder were drilled the same way: slightly undersize and the step drill eased to the right place!  Just for fun I found some nice insulation  It can't be a very good fit, there's room for the insulation behind it!  It's still a bit scabby, but it will be all right on the night. The dummy stayheads can go in later. Front of firebox next: ooooeeeee! JB |
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Post by drumkilbo on Nov 11, 2010 18:31:33 GMT
You don't hang about JB
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Post by Deleted on Nov 12, 2010 17:45:25 GMT
Front watchamacallit! I didn't do a complete photo sequence as I didn't expect the first one to come out quite as well as this.....  Made on a two piece tapered former from a 40mm wide ribbon of 18g copper riveted to form a 5"circle. It was the same base former as the backhead, which turned out to be too wide at the sides. Basically, I made a funnel shape which was hammered onto the former and beaten back into submission! I (gently) finished formed the shape on the boiler itself. The sheet metal gadget in the picture was invaluable to get the right angle on the front of the thingy, but a blunt chisel would do just as well! Hopefully the boiler cladding will hold it in place...... JB  I don't know whether I was making a Tiara or a Chastity Belt!  |
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
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Post by Andrew C on Nov 13, 2010 8:32:22 GMT
JB
I agree completely with your opening comment most backheads don't look right without cladding. They also don't look quite right just clad, better but not right. They seem to need the extra work of the washout plugs as you have suggested. Moves the loco from OK to wow! Mind you from the photos it is already past wow and well on the way to being exquisite! That's a superb job, well done so far
You have also answered the question I've just asked in Britannia: Cosmetic finishing touches. which was to clad the backhead or not. Answer: Clad.
Andrew
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