gdd
Active Member
Posts: 14
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Post by gdd on Jan 4, 2011 3:02:10 GMT
I'm new to this forum and have learned from, and enjoyed, all the posts, so I'm sharing some pics of my project. The first four pics are where the project was up to when I changed jobs seven years ago and all my free time disappeared. Graham Attachments:
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gdd
Active Member
Posts: 14
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Post by gdd on Jan 4, 2011 3:02:58 GMT
pic 2 Attachments:
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gdd
Active Member
Posts: 14
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Post by gdd on Jan 4, 2011 3:03:48 GMT
pic 3 Attachments:
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gdd
Active Member
Posts: 14
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Post by gdd on Jan 4, 2011 3:04:46 GMT
pic 4 Attachments:
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gdd
Active Member
Posts: 14
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Post by gdd on Jan 4, 2011 3:06:02 GMT
This is what I've done since restarting the project after my recent retirement: Attachments:
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gdd
Active Member
Posts: 14
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Post by gdd on Jan 4, 2011 3:07:19 GMT
Drilling cylinder end covers with new DRO. Attachments:
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gdd
Active Member
Posts: 14
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Post by gdd on Jan 4, 2011 3:08:41 GMT
I'm lucky to have good tools for the job. This is the lathe: Attachments:
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gdd
Active Member
Posts: 14
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Post by gdd on Jan 4, 2011 3:10:22 GMT
And LASTLY, this is my mill. DRO fitted since this pic. Attachments:
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2011 5:02:59 GMT
Hi Graham
Welcome to the forum, lovely work on the loco and great lathe and mill...good to see another build project, helps us all...:-)
Pete
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Post by Laurie_B on Jan 4, 2011 9:43:42 GMT
Welcome to the Forum Graham.Very nice work indeed on your Simplex,and I definitely like your workshop!
Great stuff!
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Post by Deleted on Jan 4, 2011 9:58:18 GMT
Envy is a sin, and I'm guilty as hell here!
I look forward to seeing your work
JB
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Post by ozzie46 on Jan 4, 2011 12:40:44 GMT
Welcome Graham. I especially liked the pics of the cyls as I will be starting on mine soon. I will be carving them out of cast iron stock as opposed to castings so your pics will definitely help with the profiling of them.
Question, did you have any trouble with drilling the hole for the valve shaft/rod in the steam chest? With that much distance between the front and rear I have been worrying that the drill bit would flex and wander to much as you need a longer bit to do the job.
Ron
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russell
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Post by russell on Jan 4, 2011 19:56:06 GMT
Question, did you have any trouble with drilling the hole for the valve shaft/rod in the steam chest? With that much distance between the front and rear I have been worrying that the drill bit would flex and wander to much as you need a longer bit to do the job. I had the same concern and made a D-bit to do the job. It is significantly more rigid than a long series drill . Russell. |
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gdd
Active Member
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Post by gdd on Jan 4, 2011 22:37:50 GMT
Thanks for all responses. With drilling the steam chest, I've learned how not to do it and that is to drill separately from each end. I had what turned out to be too much confidence in the accuracy of my jigging set up. The holes were not accurately aligned and quite a bit of manual adjustment was required. In fact the amount of adjustment and the fact that it all turned out OK made me wonder about how much accuracy you really need. I would drill from the back obviously, because the alignment and fit of that end is important but when you think about it, is the fit of the front (blind) hole all that critical? I would be interested in the opinion of experts on that question. This is not a criticism of D bits, but the one time I've used one it was a minor disaster. (Mmmm- bit of a theme here) My wheel to axle connections were both keyed and a press fit. In this situation, its easier to make the shaft fit the hole than vice versa, so I wanted to ream the holes in the wheels. To do this, I made a D bit from silver steel. All went well on the first wheel untill I fed the bit into the hole further than the half diameter part of the D bit. When some of the full diameter shank of the D bit had entered the hole it all siezed up. I can't remember how I salvaged that situation but, once again, it all turned out fine in the end. Again expert comment would be welcome here. My experience suggests that the half diameter part of the bit should be longer than hole depth. This should be OK for a shallow hole and a thick bit but not possible for the valve chest. Another possibility would be to leave a short section of full diameter shank and relieve behind that. If I was doing it again, I would drill from the back a little undersize (my book says 0.15mm to 0.25mm undersize up to 10mm hole) and finish with this reamer: www.ctctools.biz/servlet/the-516/LONG-HSS-M35-H7/DetailEmail first to make sure the reamer is long enough. I have dealt successfully with this supplier. In fact another suggestion would be to get a set of ER collets if you don't already have them. I recently bought a set from this supplier and they are great and unbelieveably affordable compared to Australian sources. If the accuracy requirement dictates a reamer, its a bit of a problem using a drill chuck that has many thou runout as all of mine do. Graham |
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Post by ozzie46 on Jan 5, 2011 12:22:16 GMT
Thanks Russel, Graham. Will look into "D" bits.
Ron
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russell
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Post by russell on Jan 5, 2011 19:40:35 GMT
To do this, I made a D bit from silver steel. All went well on the first wheel untill I fed the bit into the hole further than the half diameter part of the D bit. When some of the full diameter shank of the D bit had entered the hole it all siezed up. When making a D-bit it is essential to make the "1/2 diameter" part just over half diameter. It must cut on the end only, not on the edges. If the end is too thin it can cut over or undersize. Russell. |
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Post by phillg45 on Feb 18, 2011 20:44:27 GMT
HI GDD!
Another Queenslander building a Simplex. I am just starting on a "Super Simplex" which with the addition of a suitable tender and changing from 0-6-0 to 2-6-0 looks like a NSWGR Z27. The major exception is the absence of the Belpaire boiler.
Phill
from near Caboolture
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