brozier
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 335
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Post by brozier on Feb 1, 2011 10:52:41 GMT
Hi John,
Your steel cladding should be water proof?
You'll just need a vapour barrier (i.e. Polythene sheeting) between the inside cladding (plasterboard?) and any insulation. In a dry-lined building you would have plaster board then vapour barrier then insulation then outer shell.
The purpose is to stop the water vapour from breathing entering the insulation. You get a temperature gradient across the insulation and at some point the vapour will condense leaving you with soggy insulation.
You could put a breathable membrane between frame and outer shell but I don't think it would be needed unless you were timber cladding...
Cheers
Bryan
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Post by teakfreak on Feb 1, 2011 11:45:35 GMT
If I was doing my roof again I'd look at using pre-insulated sheeting.
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kingsteam9
Hi-poster
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Posts: 160
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Post by kingsteam9 on Feb 1, 2011 13:52:52 GMT
John,
There is a firm who supply 'seconds' quality insulation sheets which a colleague of mine used on his extension and are more than good enough for small domestic jobs. These are good name brands e.g. Kingspan, Kooltherm etc so they might be worth a call - colleague reports they were more competitive than retail or builders merchants outlets. They are Seconds & Co tel 0844 8584088; website at 'www.secondsandco.co.uk'.
Robin
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Post by Jo on Feb 1, 2011 15:02:38 GMT
For information: If anyone wants some loft insulation for their workshop in the UK Npower has got together with Build centre and is providing it at £3 a roll (minimum order 7 rolls = 24 m sq). Free delivery.
Jo
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Post by rodwilson on Feb 1, 2011 19:02:29 GMT
John, There is a firm who supply 'seconds' quality insulation sheets which a colleague of mine used on his extension and are more than good enough for small domestic jobs. These are good name brands e.g. Kingspan, Kooltherm etc so they might be worth a call - colleague reports they were more competitive than retail or builders merchants outlets. They are Seconds & Co tel 0844 8584088; website at 'www.secondsandco.co.uk'. Robin I remember a rep. selling insulation. He once said "Our quality checks are such that I spend most of my time selling rejects". Never did decide if it was a good company or not  |
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Post by baggo on Feb 6, 2011 18:59:17 GMT
Made quite a bit of progress over the last week  The decking sub floor is all down and the basic sides, front, and back framing is up. Hopefully tomorrow will see the roof joists fitted and the cross members in the sides etc. The framing doesn't need to be that strong really as a lot of strength and rigidity will come from the steel cladding when it's fitted.  Progress will slow down until pay day at the end of the month as I've run out of funds for the time being  John |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 6, 2011 19:21:14 GMT
Looking good John, I like the use of decking for the floor, IMHO that will be stronger than the normal flooring used.
Pete
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isc
Statesman
Posts: 708
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Post by isc on Feb 7, 2011 10:11:35 GMT
Use a membrain between the iron and the timber, esspecially if the timber is tanilised, also use the recomended fasteners, ie if the wrong metal is used for screws or nails corrosion may occur.isc
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Post by baggo on Feb 7, 2011 12:39:55 GMT
Yes, I've decided to fit a membrane to the outside of the timber frame before fitting the cladding. I bought the fixings at the same time as the cladding so they are obviously the type normally used (with a washer and rubber seal). I did assume they would probably be stainless but it looks like they are actually plated steel. So long as it doesn't fall down before I do, I'll be happy. I'm not bothered what happens after then ;D
John
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Post by baggo on Feb 13, 2011 22:53:51 GMT
The framing is all complete now. As the weather is pretty wet at the moment I decided to get the membrane asap even if it means living on bread and jam for the next few weeks   . It's the cheapest stuff I could find but seems very strong. It took a couple of days to cover everything but at least I can now keep the inside of the structure dry. It's stapled to the frames with plastic discs under the staples to stop the membrane tearing. One 50 metre roll was just enough.  The photo was taken through the kitchen window, hence the reflections! One thing that did occur to me is that now I've put the membrane on the roof I can't get up between the joists when I'm putting the roof sheets on. That means getting up on top to fasten the middle sheets The steel cladding came in 4 metre lengths as that was all the local supplier had in the colour I wanted (light grey) so it's got to be cut up into the various sizes required. I started doing that yesterday and the air was blue! What a pig of a job  I'm using a sheet metal saw that takes ordinary hacksaw blades and it's a right pain cutting the full width of a sheet (1 metre) without the saw jamming all the time. Anyway, I've cut the sheets for the front under the windows and fastened those on and have cut the sheets for the back which I hope to get fitted tomorrow. Speaking of windows, the frames for the front ones will be made by 'recycling' some old UPVC windows from the house. I knew I'd find a use for them someday ;D The two big windows on the front will be fixed and the frames cut from the old frames and the mitred joints in the corners glued with silicon sealer. There are outer woodem frames that the UPVC sections will screw to so the silicon only has to seal the joints rather than provide any strength. The frames will be single glazed for the time being but will be replaced with sealed units when funds permit. Also from the old windows are five opening lights and these will be fitted along the top of the back wall to give extra light and also ventilation in the long hot summers (joking of course!). John |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 13, 2011 23:53:37 GMT
P I'm using a sheet metal saw that takes ordinary hacksaw blades and it's a right pain cutting the full width of a sheet (1 metre) without the saw jamming all the time. John Hi John Angle grinder not suitable for this job? JB |
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brozier
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 335
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Post by brozier on Feb 14, 2011 8:34:13 GMT
I was thinking Jigsaw with a fine tooth blade?
Looking good :-)
Cheers
Bryan
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Post by baggo on Feb 14, 2011 19:11:40 GMT
John - the dreaded angle grinder was the second choice as I've got some very thin cutting discs for it. However, the cladding, as well as galvanised, is plastic coated and I was a bit worried about the heat from the cutting disc doing some damage. Bryan - the stuff is so thin that I think even a very fine tooth blade would just snag and bend the metal all the time. The problem is that the stuff is corrugated so it's not a nice flat surface to cut. The flat bits inbetween the corrugations cut dead easily - it's the sticky up bits that cause the problems! The rest of the sheets only need cutting into two so I'll carry on with the saw. I've fitted the sheeting to the back today and it looks good John |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 14, 2011 19:14:21 GMT
Bryan - the stuff is so thin that I think even a very fine tooth blade would just snag and bend the metal all the time. John I've just mastered the Jeweller's Saw. I can recommend it! JB |
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brozier
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 335
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Post by brozier on Feb 14, 2011 21:12:40 GMT
Hi John,
Are the sheets all similar sizes? Maybe putting a couple of sheets together and sawing them all at once will be easier?
Cheers
Bryan
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Post by baggo on Feb 16, 2011 18:49:22 GMT
Despite the bad weather I've now got all the cladding on the sides. That leaves the roof which I am not looking forward to It's going to be a struggle dragging my poor aching bones up on top I think. Might have to coerce dear Bro into helping!  I've still got to 'lose' a big pile of soil somewhere. I wonder if the neighbour would notice if his garden suddenly got an inch higher  ;D John |
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Post by Deleted on Feb 16, 2011 19:34:17 GMT
I've still got to 'lose' a big pile of soil somewhere. I wonder if the neighbour would notice if his garden suddenly got an inch higher ;D John Don't do that John: every 'Tom, Dick and Harry' will know about it! JB |
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Feb 18, 2011 6:29:18 GMT
I have been watching the progress , I have suggested nothing as the guys in UK are doing that , it looks good , I like the large windows , good for daylight . Hope soon production will be coming out of this little factory . Well done John and good luck with the roof .
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Post by baggo on Feb 23, 2011 18:42:46 GMT
Thanks Shawki I started putting on the roof sheets yesterday and finished today in the pouring rain. Got soaked but it was worth it to get the job done. It still needs a few more fasteners but they can wait for better weather! It's secure and not going to blow off. I managed it without actually climbing on top but leaning right over the edges (standing on a VERY secure ladder!) Next week I'm going to order the polystyrene sheet and some UPVC sections to finish around the windows etc. It's already looking quite cosy A couple of pics of the interior:   The last major structural job is the frame for the 5 opening windows on the back. John |
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Post by jgb7573 on Feb 23, 2011 19:47:01 GMT
A heater already? Smashing!
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I'm using a sheet metal saw that takes ordinary hacksaw blades and it's a right pain cutting the full width of a sheet (1 metre) without the saw jamming all the time.
;D
