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Post by baggo on Apr 14, 2011 21:19:32 GMT
We're nearly there! All the interior lining is up and painted. Lights are fitted. I'm fitting the Altro flooring at the moment and debating whether to glue it down - it is really meant to be glued, otherwise it tends to move and ruck up. There's going to be a seam in it just in front of the bench (as it only comes in 2 mtr widths) so that will have to be glued at least. Joins in Altro are normally welded but you really need the proper gear to do it so I may just glue it and leave it at that. It's very blue Once the floors done, I'll make a start on the bench which will run the full length of the front windows. That will be 22mm chipboard on 85mm x 40mm framing left over from the workshop. I think I'll cover the top with hardboard or similar which can be replaced easily if it gets damaged and scruffy. I went and paid for the Boxford shaper yesterday which I'll collect in a week or so's time. I also collected the frames and a full set of castings for Didcot (Neville Evan's 14xx). I decided against the Bulldog in the end as I would prefer to build something from scratch. The Bulldog chassis etc. is very well made but it wouldn't have been all my own work. I also bought a load of tools etc. so I'm about skint again! Still, I've got a couple of weeks looking after our Legion Club at the end of May so that will replenish the coffers a bit John
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brozier
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 335
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Post by brozier on Apr 15, 2011 7:58:35 GMT
Hi John,
Looks amazingly good ;D
I think I'd glue the flooring down you won't be moving it again once the machines move in.
See if you can get some floor varnish for your wooden worktops - it's very hard wearing and wipe clean!
Cheers Bryan
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 15, 2011 9:46:40 GMT
It looks great , too good for workshop , are you moving in full time? ;D I am the same I always prefer to do everything , I have a halve built traction engine acquired from a friend who can't finish it (3" scale ) , it has been sitting in storage for a long time . Good luck in the new workshop .
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Post by simon48 on Apr 15, 2011 10:08:37 GMT
Hi John, I've fitted acres of Altro in the 80's/90's and recommend glueing it down and rolling into the glue with a hefty steel bar as it expands and contracts with temperature change, leave a small gap round the walls to allow for it. Welding is the best but, Altro do an alternative, a heavy mastic - www.altro.co.uk/getdoc/0ba1b991-a495-4922-b023-741068a6ea0e/Finishing+-+AltroMastic.aspx - pick the closest colour for your floor. Use a stanley knife withh the point down and scrape along the join to enlarge and rough a key. Put a run of masking tape, on the flat, down each side of the join about 5mm appart. Run the mastic along the groove and just onto the masking tape. Run a blade, almost flat, along the tape to leave flush with top of tape, now peel back the tape to leave a 5mm strip of mastic, don't touch the stip, leave it to harden off. You'll have the next best thing. Regards Simon
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Post by drjohn on Apr 15, 2011 14:56:37 GMT
Hi John
Just catching up after returning here - great workshop - too good for dirty engineering!!
I see you mentioned an ant problem in the garden - the natives here can't afford insecticides so they use salt - seems to work pretty well.
In the UK I used to mix brazing flux (basically as has been mentioned, Borax) with syrup and put a blob of it in a tobacco tin with holes at each side and place it in the ant run - worked well and stopped my dog licking it!
DJ
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Post by baggo on Apr 15, 2011 20:17:56 GMT
Hi John, Yes, it does look too good to use! It'll soon get oil sprayed up the walls and on the ceiling though so will look more like a workshop than a front room ;D I remember Dad using Borax and sugar for the ants - there used to be some liquid stuff in a tube that you put down. I think that was just Borax in a sugar solution. Shawki - I might be moving in next winter. I reckon the workshop will be a lot warmer than the house, certainly much cheaper to heat Simon - thanks for the Altro info. I'll check out the mastic. I did come across a similar product this morning whilst searching the web. It's German I think and used for cold welding vinyl. There's only the bit of the joint across the doorway that will get any real traffic. I'll be glad when the machines are installed and I can get back to some serious chip making. I much prefer working with metal than wood John
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Post by Deleted on Apr 15, 2011 21:31:26 GMT
looks great John, very nice...
Pete
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Post by rodwilson on Apr 16, 2011 7:27:36 GMT
Never mind the ants - has the ext. door been painted?
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Post by baggo on Apr 16, 2011 9:23:34 GMT
Not yet but hopefully it will be getting a coat of primer today John
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Post by Deleted on Apr 18, 2011 14:23:20 GMT
Thanks for that tip Shawki I don't think any of the valve gear has been done yet, although the eccentrics are fitted to the crank axle. Changing those would mean pulling the axle to pieces again I do make a habit now of putting all valve gears through a simulator to see what they are like. It's amazing how poor a lot of them are. John John, Please can you tell me where I can source a valve gear simulator such as you use. I am having trouble with the valve gear on my Winson 7&1/4" Brittania and I am not certain that the dimensions of the various components are correct. Thanks and Regards Jim
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Post by baggo on Apr 18, 2011 17:14:05 GMT
Hi Jim, I mostly use either the simulator by Bill Hall or the one by Allan Wallace. Don (Ashton) has download links for both on his website as well as some very useful information on valve gear design: www.donashton.co.uk/html/downloads.html. They take a bit of getting into to but once you've got the hang of them they are very useful. I wouldn't build any loco now without checking the valve gear first. Bill's simulators are restricted to Walschaert's and Stephenson but Allan's does cover Baker as well. There are also the well known ones by Charlie Dockstader which cover nearly every valve gear ever designed! www.jf2.com/bcwrr/Dockstader-Valve-Gear.htmlI must admit that I rarely use Charlie's now as I find them a bit tedious to use. A lot of the data you are asked to input is irrelevant to the functioning of the valve gear and it takes ages to set them up. It will certainly be worth checking the Winson valve gear as I doubt that it will be particularly good. John
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Post by Deleted on Apr 19, 2011 2:58:25 GMT
John,
Thanks - I have downloaded the valve gear programs. As you say they will take a bit of getting into but it has to be worth the effort.
I will let you know how I get on with them.
Your workshop is looking good.
Regards
Jim
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Post by baggo on Apr 24, 2011 0:38:17 GMT
I've been sharing time between the workshop and the garden this week. The weeds seem to be growing at an alarming rate with this warm weather The door has had a couple of coats of primer and the Altro glued down with F44 adhesive. A bit of a messy job but it turned out ok. The joins seems pretty secure but I will do them properly in the near future (either welding or mastic). I finished off the edge of the floor with plastic beading to cover a small gap left for expansion. On Friday I made the bench from timber framing and 22mm chipboard. At last, somewhere to put all the tools that have been lying around for ages ;D I'll finish the top off with hardboard and some metal angle along the front edge. The clock (a Smith's Sectric) was given to me by a friend who said it came from the old Friargate station in Derby. Don't know if that is true but it's certainly easy to see the time ;D Yesterday I dismantled the Eagle Mill and moved the bits into their new home. That should be back together by the end of today hopefully. John
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Post by drumkilbo on Apr 24, 2011 11:47:14 GMT
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isc
Statesman
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Post by isc on Apr 24, 2011 11:50:27 GMT
When I built my main bench, I used 100 X100 mm pine for the legs, making sure that one leg was directly under the 4" vice. isc
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Post by baggo on Apr 24, 2011 20:17:43 GMT
Yes, I might beef them up by doubling up. To be honest, I haven't made my mind up yet what is going underneath the bench so I might have to move the legs to suit. I might try and get some drawer units to fit under. "Looking good John, plenty of light and space. You could always get one of these to clock in and out with"One of the club members has got a time clock - I wonder if he wants to donate it to a good cause ;D I finished putting the mill back together today so the workshop has it's first official 'inhabitant' I had to strip it completely to move it so gave it a good clean whilst I was at it. I've always found the hinged belt cover a pain in the bottom as you have to wind the head right to the top of the column before you can open it, so I've cut the hinges off! The top can now be removed and replaced with the head in any position. It just needs a couple of clips to hold the now 'hingeless' side. I might even finally get around to fitting the digital vernier that I bought last year for the quill feed. The ML7 will have to stay where it is until I make a new stand for it. At the moment it's on a piece of kitchen worktop on top of some units but I want something a bit more substantial in the new place. I can now arrange to pick up that Denham lathe from my friend at the club! It must be at least a year since I bought it! John
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Post by drjohn on Apr 25, 2011 0:56:21 GMT
You forgot to clean the plug ;D ;D
DJ
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Post by rodwilson on Apr 25, 2011 9:13:02 GMT
I was brought up in a carpenter and joiners shop. (Don't say dragged up - I used to be dragged in the house and to bed!) I guess because of that background my benches have always been more substantial. What I do find is that a wide vertical board on the front, say 12" of 3/4" ply, does a lot for rigidity of both legs and top.
I'm also a fan of the carpenters vice. Many of my bits and pieces are fitted to blocks of wood so that they can be held in the vice - even an engineers vice. These include linisher, small anvil, pipe vice. Another advantage is that you can adjust these items to a preferred height. I also use pieces of worktop with a strip of 2" x 2" under held in the same manner.
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 25, 2011 9:53:43 GMT
Looks great , I saw the plug but I wasn't going to say anything as in my workshop everything is NOT clean , I wonder if DJ shop is clean ;D , it may be he is a doctor .
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redmog
Part of the e-furniture
Not Morgan weather
Posts: 461
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Post by redmog on Apr 25, 2011 19:09:29 GMT
Too Clean. You forgot to clean the plug ;D ;D DJ No, I don't think the plug's dirty. I just think everything else is too clean. Give it a week or two. John, It's looking good! Chris.
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