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Post by kurplunked on Apr 21, 2011 9:56:11 GMT
Hello, first posting so I hope that this is in the right place!
You will have to exuse my terminology as I am not an engineer or a skilled man at such things!
Ive purchased a Julliete 2 loco, part built with a "half boiler". It requires staying and bushing to be completed.
The problem I have is where the backhead (?) flange should be riveted it has been silver soldered. BUT the holes in the barrell for rivetting have been drilled. Two rivets at the bottom of each side of the fire box and one at the very top have been put in.
We have had a camera inside and allthough the boiler looks messy from the oustide the joins from the inside out apperntly "look good" ( I wouldnt know a good joint from a bad one!)
I, personally, am tempted to bush and stay the boiler and take it upto twice working pressure on a hydrollic pump and see how the joint fairs as several people have given me the opinion that silver soldering it was better than riveting.
I was just seeking some advice! Im not a skilled man nor do I have many tools, a pillar drill, a old lathe and a grinder are my machines!!
Kerplunked.
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Apr 21, 2011 10:03:25 GMT
I don't know where you are but the best thing to do in my opinion is to join a club and talk to a boiler inspector , get yourself a copy of boiler code and take it from there . You surely can get some advice here , but that will be only advice while a boiler inspector will give you firm and real guideline to finish the boiler and get it certified . Hope this help .
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Post by cplmickey on Apr 21, 2011 11:18:02 GMT
From your decription it sounds as though the rivets were put in just to hold things in place while it was all silver soldered together. As far as I know they serve no real purpose afterwards and a soldered joint should be fine.
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Post by kurplunked on Apr 21, 2011 13:00:43 GMT
Thank you for that, it makes sense really. I would personally of thought a soldered joint was better than a riveted. Looking at it, its also evident he used the holes drilled in the boiler barrell to feed silver solder to gain penetration. (There are no holes in the flange of the backhead.)
I will bush and stay then take it up to 2x pressure and see what is what I think.
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Post by kurplunked on Apr 24, 2011 18:35:13 GMT
Hello,
I am about to start staying the boiler... ive been talking to friends who have built models before and they have said to just silver solder the 3/16" copper round in at each end... Should I be doing something else?
Ive heard about putting a nut in the firebox but as its together and complete im not sure how I would go about that.
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pault
Elder Statesman
Posts: 1,497
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Post by pault on Apr 24, 2011 19:51:13 GMT
Hi
Nuts are normally put on the inside of the firebox on threaded stays to protect the end of the stay. When silver soldering stays in normal practice is to use commercial rivets with the head on the inside. I agree with the other posts regarding rivets, if the backhead was going to be riveted there would be rivet holes all round the joint quite close together, so I would say they were just there to hold it together while soldering.
Regards
Paul
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Post by AndrewP on Apr 24, 2011 20:10:03 GMT
My Juliet boiler drawing (LO62 sheet 5) shows 2 off longitudinal stays, a solid one on the left and a 16g hollow blower stay on the right. The smokebox tubeplate drawing shows the holes for these as tapped 5/16 x 40 so that has to be for a bush. There isn't an annotated drawing of the backhead in my set (woe is me) but what there is shows a hex head on the end of the solid stay which scales (yes I know!) about 3/8 across the flats.
Firebox stays are 5ba copper at 3/4 centres but no other information.
HTH, Andy
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Post by kurplunked on Apr 24, 2011 20:12:51 GMT
Hello Andy, Many thanks for that, firebox stays are in allready.
I have been talking to a chap who has built a rob roy, same boiler I belive, and he advised me to do the two stays solid and run the blower round the outside....
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Post by AndrewP on Apr 24, 2011 20:35:52 GMT
I suppose that works as well, untidy in my mind but you pays yer money .......
There are certain similarities aren't there.
Rob Roys longitudinal stays are 3/16, the solid one calls up drawn gunmetal or monel, threaded 3/16 x 40 each end and held in "blinf nipples" which are threaded 3/16 x 40 internally and 5/16 x 40 externally to match the thread cut in the smokebox tubeplate and the backhead - "use plumbers jointing on all these threads" urm, maybe, mine are silver soldered!
Cheers, Andy
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