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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2014 20:12:26 GMT
Thanks John, I will have a look locally and see what I can find. A 3/8" one would be a tight fit, but 1/4 would fit OK.
Tom
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Post by fostergp6nhp on Nov 13, 2014 20:25:26 GMT
1/4" should be fine as you don't need that much steam, my 4" scale traction engine only has a 3/8" bore from the regulator valve to the steam chest.
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Post by ejparrott on Nov 13, 2014 20:58:52 GMT
Remember ball valves are designated as BSP, and that the pipe thread for any given size is 1/4" over the size stated...roughly...so a 1/4" valve fits to a pipe roughly 1/2" diameter.
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uuu
Elder Statesman
your message here...
Posts: 2,858
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Post by uuu on Nov 13, 2014 21:14:23 GMT
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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2014 21:56:54 GMT
Interesting point about the sizing of BSP. The hole through the middle of my spare 1/4" BSP valve is in fact 10mm, ie more than 3/8"! This article: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/British_Standard_Pipe explains it all. Regards, John
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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2014 22:45:26 GMT
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Andrew C
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 447
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Post by Andrew C on Nov 13, 2014 22:55:18 GMT
There is a firm local to me called Anglian hose and hydraulic that do all sorts of sizes of these valves. A trawl through yellow pages (or the internet) might find you one local to you. If you can find one make sure it has a gland on the operating shaft. My first one did not. It leaked !
Andrew
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Post by Roger on Nov 13, 2014 23:15:33 GMT
Take a look on eBay, there's loads of that sort of thing on there.
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Post by Deleted on Nov 13, 2014 23:25:39 GMT
Roger, there are indeed a bunch on ebay, but what we here in Canada have to be very wary of is the 3.95 part cost and the $35.00 shipping to Canada. To most of the Us suppliers we appear to live in another universe. My local shipping was $6.00, in my money and it will be here in a couple of days.
Cheers
Tom
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Post by Roger on Nov 14, 2014 8:00:02 GMT
Roger, there are indeed a bunch on ebay, but what we here in Canada have to be very wary of is the 3.95 part cost and the $35.00 shipping to Canada. To most of the Us suppliers we appear to live in another universe. My local shipping was $6.00, in my money and it will be here in a couple of days. Cheers Tom Hi Tom, I assumed that you would have a Canadian eBay that is local to you, I guess that's not the case. Life without eBay.... not a situation I'd want to return to!
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2014 8:14:59 GMT
Hi Roger,
You were right ... there is a Canadian Ebay, but most of the suppliers are US, or the orient. Even some Canadian suppliers want way to much for postage.
Sorry Jim ... We now return to regular programming.
Tom
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Post by Jim on Nov 14, 2014 8:51:27 GMT
No need to apologise Tom this is a topic of interest to a lot of people myself included. On other matters I'm well along the way with forming the front of the fire box cleading and will post a series of photos to show the stages when I've got a bit more done. So if there's more to add on regulators please feel free to keep the regulator discussion going. It's 34C here at present great for boiler work. Jim
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Post by ejparrott on Nov 14, 2014 9:42:42 GMT
Its 11 here..and raining...lots... I'm going to have to light the stove in the conservatory..I need to get brake callipers for the land rover painted...
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2014 10:07:04 GMT
-5c and getting ready to snow here.
Jim, when you get the cleading all shaped, how are you going to attach it to the boiler?
Tom
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Post by Jim on Nov 14, 2014 11:20:03 GMT
That's a good question Tom. At this stage I haven't quite made up my mind but I'd like to follow prototype practice as best as possible in having the cleading in sections along the boiler. My current plan is to fit the fire box cleading and the crinolines along the boiler to support the coned cleading sections. I can then draw out the patterns for the cleading and do a trial fit to ensure the panels fit nicely. Once I'm satisfied that all is OK I'll instal the boiler and jamb my fingers yet again, then when the bleeding has stopped I'll then fit the painted cleading. Well that's the current plan Tom. Jim
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Post by Deleted on Nov 14, 2014 12:47:50 GMT
Thanks ... I'll keep watching and see how it all shapes up.
Cheers
Tom
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Post by Jim on Nov 17, 2014 8:45:06 GMT
Just an update on creating the cleading for front of Boadicea's fire box. The method I've used may not be to everyone's liking but it's one I've used previously to develop the curved edges for the coal bunker-water tank on my 3" Burrell and it worked well. The material I'm using is .022" gal-steel. Why not brass? The simple answer is I happen to have a big sheet of it and I find it easy to work with and it's durable. The first pic shows the outline of the former traced onto the steel and a series of fingers cut on the band saw at roughly 5mm intervals round the perimeter. The former and the steel sheet were matched up and clamped in the vice and the fingers bent over quite easily by hand. I then used a panel beater's hammer to gently tap the fingers down to form the curve. The next stage shows a trial fit on the boiler with the curved support for the first section of the boiler barrel cleading in place. After a bit of tweeking thr steel former was coated with auto motive filler and after it had hardened it was gently sanded back to create a smooth surface, minor imperfections were touched up with blade putty and again sanded back with fine wet & dry. The final photo shows the cleading/crinoline in place and ready start the next stage. Jim
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Post by Deleted on Nov 17, 2014 8:56:59 GMT
that looks great Jim....not an easy shape to do...I'm not really that knowledgeable about this class but to me that looks spot on...top work sir.... Pete
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Post by GWR 101 on Nov 17, 2014 9:01:43 GMT
Nice one Jim, that looks a really good approach and I am sure the end result will make all the effort worthwhile. Regards Paul
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Post by Roger on Nov 17, 2014 9:17:24 GMT
Any way that gives the desired result is just fine. I might have been concerned that it might crack between the slits but it's worked before so I guess it's not a problem. I might be inclined to lay some fibreglass strands across them all to give it more strength. A great result though, it looks really good.
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