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Post by Jim on Nov 9, 2017 9:24:15 GMT
Crikey Bob you don't miss a trick do you? I thought I had that well hidden but clearly not. I'll be more careful next time  Jim |
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Post by Jim on Nov 10, 2017 9:28:51 GMT
Between cutting and rolling some sheet metal for our neighbour for his latest project and collecting mail for our son who is swanning around the UK with his partner..what a life! I did manage to get a bit more work done on the filter boxes..well one of the filter boxes. The outlet pipe fitting is now in place on both boxes and I managed to cut and solder the two webs that can be seen on the front of the boxes either side of the cast in signage. This is the last task to do before I start the lining out which I'll do with the sides off the tender as it is obviously much easier that way. Well we're slowly getting closer to the finishing line.  Jim and a soothing ale |
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Post by Jim on Nov 11, 2017 5:25:51 GMT
Over the last couple of days as I've been working on the filter boxes I've not been all that happy with using the lovely etched plates I was supplied with. Nice as they are they just didn't look right on the filter boxes when compared with photos of the real thing where the lettering is cast into the body of the box and fairly low relief. As a result I decided to make my own water slide decals to represent the cast instructions on the filter boxes as you can see in the photo below:  For those interested making your own Ink Jet water slide decals allows you to produce signage for individual wagons and coaches etc. For example I was able to make the individual Eastern Region numbers for the 2 BR Coaches.  The process of making your own decals is quite simple really, if I can do it it must be  . The art work in my case is done in Pages on my Mac Laptop and a trial run printed on ordinary A4 paper to check the layout size etc. If I'm happy with everything I keep the trial sheet and use it as a carrier for a suitable off cut of White Decal paper held in place over the original with sticky tape..but not where you want to print your art work of course. You need white decal paper as the inks in InkJet printers are not opaque and so barely show up on clear decal paper. The catch here is that you have to then match the background colour to your lettering with the body colour it will be placed on. In Pages infinite colour combinations can be generated using the colour wheel in the Format section of the programme This is the Decal Paper I use from Bel Inc in the US, I'm sure a Google search would turn up other suppliers.  Once you are happy with the decal's art work a fixing spray of clear lacquer is needed to stop the inks running when placed in water, once dry all is ready to apply. I find the ability to make your own decals opens up a whole new range of opportunities, which reminds me I should make the decals for the white signage above the tender brake and the water scoop handles. Hope I haven't waffled on too much. Jim |
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 878 
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Post by barlowworks on Nov 11, 2017 8:34:36 GMT
Hi Jim
As the filters are cosmetic, would it not be possible to cut out a hole in the side and solder the plates in flush with the surface. The transfers look very good but it would be a pity to loose that raised detail on the etched plates.
Mike
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Lisa
Statesman
Posts: 806 
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Post by Lisa on Nov 11, 2017 9:18:12 GMT
Hi Jim As the filters are cosmetic, would it not be possible to cut out a hole in the side and solder the plates in flush with the surface. The transfers look very good but it would be a pity to loose that raised detail on the etched plates. Mike Or even mill a recess and sweat them in. |
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Post by Jim on Nov 11, 2017 9:32:35 GMT
Hi Mike and Lisa,
Yes you are quite right that is an alternative solution that I hadn't considered I must admit. Hmmmm and here was I thinking I'd found a quick and easy solution.
I can see a restless night ahead.
Jim
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Lisa
Statesman
Posts: 806
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Post by Lisa on Nov 11, 2017 9:45:45 GMT
I can see a restless night ahead. You're welcome!  |
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 878
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Post by barlowworks on Nov 11, 2017 11:25:05 GMT
Hi Jim As the filters are cosmetic, would it not be possible to cut out a hole in the side and solder the plates in flush with the surface. The transfers look very good but it would be a pity to loose that raised detail on the etched plates. Mike Or even mill a recess and sweat them in. Here speaks an engineer rather than a modeller, I'd not thought of that. 🙂 Mike |
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Post by Jim on Nov 11, 2017 11:37:20 GMT
Sadly while both ideas are good the filter boxes as they are wouldn't stand up to milling as they are made from thin brass sheet and cutting a neat hole to accommodate the etched plate would also risk damage. In short work is too far advanced  Thanks for the suggestions Mike and Lisa. Jim. |
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hudson
Involved Member
Posts: 92
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Post by hudson on Nov 11, 2017 17:00:55 GMT
Hi,
Sinker EDM?
Best regards,
Hudson
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Post by Jim on Nov 13, 2017 22:38:55 GMT
Hi, Sinker EDM? Best regards, Hudson Sorry, but I haven't a clue what this is about. I don't think I need to know either. |
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Post by Jim on Nov 14, 2017 1:03:00 GMT
Just thought I'd pop in a photo of the completed filter box in position on the fireman's side of the tender. I decided the etched plates lovely as they are, just were not right for the task. I'm not saying my solution is any better but I feel happier with using the transfer given the original casting was quite low relief and barely visible in many photos.  Jim |
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barlowworks
Statesman
Now finished my other projects, Britannia here I come
Posts: 878
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Post by barlowworks on Nov 14, 2017 8:26:03 GMT
Looking good Jim. Soon be ready to fill it up with water and coal. 👍
Mike
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Post by Cro on Nov 14, 2017 8:42:07 GMT
Looking good Jim. Soon be ready to fill it up with water and coal. 👍 Mike Looks ready to me! He'll be standing over it later with a box of matches holding back the urge to light one - probably where he is right now. Adam |
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Post by Jim on Nov 14, 2017 9:10:42 GMT
I wish Adam. The temptation gets stronger each day but I still have the lining to do then I can finally seal up the tender and if as I hope, it's leak free then the first match can be struck. Ooops I just remembered I still have the little pocket blower to make up. I have the motor and the frames cut out, just need to make the fan and get a couple of D sized batteries. A description of the blower appeared in AME about 12 months ago.  Jim |
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Post by Cro on Nov 14, 2017 9:16:56 GMT
Jim,
Just stick a bit of copper pipe in the end of the compressor hose make a U shape and stick it down the chimney on the blast pipe and light that baby up!
Just make sure someone is filming the first match going in, or in my case with the 9f, the 3rd as the matches kept going out.
Adam
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Post by Jim on Nov 14, 2017 9:39:50 GMT
You're a devil Adam, placing temptation in my way like that and knowing too that I have a compressor tucked away in the garage.
Jim.
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Post by Cro on Nov 14, 2017 9:49:34 GMT
Lucky guess!
I look forward to seeing the tender lined out first though!
Adam
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Post by Jim on Nov 14, 2017 10:34:48 GMT
This is the completed filter box for the driver's side of the tender, it still has to have the Feed Valve lettering added. That's a job for tomorrow.  Just in case I get forgetful in my old age I cannibalized two spare transfers to use the 'Open Shut' wording as position indicators for the injector water valves.  Jim |
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Post by Jim on Nov 16, 2017 4:47:54 GMT
Given that the end has now been reached in terms of making bits and pieces for the loco I decided I could put JP"s drawings, all 21 sheets safely away for future reference if needed. While it's not the end of the story, there's the lining yet to do, reassembling the tender and of course a steam test yet to come I thought it might be of interest to take a quick peep at where it all began when a mate gave me a box of part complete castings and a big roll of drawings back in 2004-5 after I'd completed the Burrell. The castings had been stored in a machine shop and at first glance didn't look too flash. Black tea dissolved the rust to a black sludge which washed off the wheels under the laundry tap..I was banned from the kitchen, heaven knows why. These are some of the bogie and tender wheels which had already been machined but not given the black tea treatment:  Fortunately all the wheels including the drivers were in the box along with the essential items such as cylinder blocks, a chimney and the steam dome. There were also some brake shoes plus an incomplete set of horn blocks and cast leaf springs. There were more missing parts that I didn't discover until much later into the build. As a warm up project I decided to make the front bogie which would give me something to push along the track:  Next a look at sheet 1 showed that building the frames was only part of the challenge. JP had parts scattered where ever there was a space and not always on the same sheet. My drawings were also copies of copies and had started to degrade as a result as sheet 1 shows. As an aside you can see the bogie spring beside the bogie stretcher but you need to got to sheet 5 to find the bogie details set out including where the spring is meant to go.  Back to sheet 1 and with the bogie completed the next job was the mainframes seen here marked out and clamped to an angle plate, being milled true before the B&D jig saw fitted with a metal cutting blade was used to cut out the semi circular recesses for the wheels. A very handy bit of kit the hand held jig saw for cutting shapes and holes in steel as long as you don't mind your hands tingling for a day or so afterwards.  The journey has been great fun and it's not over yet. There's the lining to start in the next day or so then there's the driving trolley, enough to keep me out of mischief for a quite while yet.  Jim |
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. The art work in my case is done in Pages on my Mac Laptop and a trial run printed on ordinary A4 paper to check the layout size etc. If I'm happy with everything I keep the trial sheet and use it as a carrier for a suitable off cut of White Decal paper held in place over the original with sticky tape..but not where you want to print your art work of course.
