70036 Boadicea

[runner42]

Hi Jim,

the top will look like a seamless curve just like a railway carriage, but not hinged for access to the inside?

Brian

[Jim]

The centre flat panel lifts out Brian to give access to bogies and brake gear via the front and rear compartments with the central compartment for storage of equipment etc. At present I'm just waiting for the sun to drop and things to cool off a bit before I get get back to plane the curves in.

Jim

[GWR 101]

Looking good Jim, it will certainly be a sight to behold and look graceful behind Boadicea. Where as mine will be "attempting" to replicate a 7 plank wagon (probably very poorly) Regards Paul

[Jim]

Jan 6, 2018 10:35:58 GMT GWR 101 said:

Looking good Jim, it will certainly be a sight to behold and look graceful behind Boadicea. Where as mine will be "attempting" to replicate a 7 plank wagon (probably very poorly) Regards Paul

Thanks Paul but to be honest the trolley will be have but a passing resemblance to a CCT van and then only from a distance and in fading light.
Already I can see a need to improve the seating to allow for the fact that once I sit down on it I can't get back up! My dear old dad used to say 'Don't laugh son one day you'll be like me.'...He was right!!!!

Jim

[steamer5]

Hi Jim,
Looking Good!

On my trolley I went & had a chat to a very nice lady at a place that sells foam for seating. I explained what I was after & went with her recommendation, sorry cant remember what, but it is a hi density foam 100 mm thick, she cut it to size as well. Like you age is catching up & sitting for hours on skinny foam soon puts a "flat" on ones rear!

Cheers Kerrin

[terrier060]

Hi Jim
I have been reading your thread on Boadicea. A very fine model and some lovely plate-work. It is difficult to see how you joined all the pieces of the tender, and kept the grey paint so pristine! I wonder now if I should have painted my 'Terriers' as I went along. Now I have to disassemble them at some point and wonder if I will ever get them back together again the same way!

I am not sure I can follow your earlier thread as I think the pictures are on Photobucket. Could you tell me where you get your rivets from and how you close them so neatly.

Ed

[Jim]

Hi Ed,

I must admit to being a compulsive 'paint as you go' person who just can't help himself though I don't try too hard. I must admit I do try, though not always successfully, to make things so that they can be disassembled fairly easily and without doing too much damage to the paint work. For example the boiler cladding is in sections with the boiler bands covering the seams so that it can be removed easily if needed.

The rivets are brass and I've bought them from your usual model engineer supplier. For setting the rivets I use nail punches, the ones with the cupped ends designed to fit over the nail head. I got mine as a set in the local bargain bazaar and they work a treat. In cutting the rivets I work on a protruding length of 1.5 of the diameter of the rivet which works for me.

I haven't checked recently but most browsers now have a download that removes the Photobucket mask so that photos in posts that were previously blocked can now be seen.

If you have any queries please feel free to PM me Ed.

Jim

[runner42]

Hi Jim,

I know you use etched primer as the undercoat, but do you sand blast the bare metal prior to applying the etched primer? If not what preparations do you undertake to the metal? What is your paint scheme, ie how many coats of each do you normally apply?

Brian

[Jim]

Jan 8, 2018 5:17:23 GMT runner42 said:

Hi Jim,

I know you use etched primer as the undercoat, but do you sand blast the bare metal prior to applying the etched primer? If not what preparations do you undertake to the metal? What is your paint scheme, ie how many coats of each do you normally apply?

Brian

Hi Brian,

First I must say I'm no expert I just do what I feel will work best for me, others will have their methods too that they prefer to follow.

For mild steel I like to ensure the metal is free of any rust spots and grease so I usually give the surface a rub over with steel wool and a wipe with a degreasing surface prep that can be bought at auto stores. The paints I use are all in spray cans including the BR Green which I have mixed at a local auto paint supply shop using a BR paint sample a mate gave me. Interestingly the last two cans I had made up came back labelled Beromix BR Green which suggest it is now in the paint supplier's book of colour specs.

After the initial grey primer has been applied I may or may not add a coat of auto motive spray putty to to improve the surface. Once all is dry I then apply the final top coat of, in this case BR Green. I like to leave the paint to properly cure over a period of at least a week.

Over the years I discovered the hard way that enamels such as Humbrol can be applied over cellulose paints such as the automotive paints that I use in spray cans but cellulose paints applied over enamels creates a very interesting crinkle effect that is not what you want.

Other products I've found very useful have been the epoxy spray paints such as Wattyl's Killrust. I used their Delicious Red for the inside of the frames both on the loco and on my 3" Burrell Single Crank Compound. It is a very hard and durable paint.

You mention sand blasting and here I must say I now use soda rather than 'sand' as it works just as well and is much more 'friendly' to use, having said that I don't use  it that often and not that I can remember in connection with the Britannia.

Hope this answers your query.

Jim

[terrier060]

Great Jim - thanks for the info ( and the painting query of Brian's which I also found interesting). Will try and remove the mask.
Ed

[Jim]

Hi Ed,

If you haven't done so already, Google: Fix for Photobucket and it will come up with a list of patches to download for various browsers that by pass the Photobucket mask and let you see the photos in the various posts.

Jim

[runner42]

Thanks Jim, an excellent response the use of automotive spray putty I found to be very interesting.

Brian

[terrier060]

Thanks Jim - the fix worked and I spent a couple of hours reading through your thread. It is quite an eye-opener, and takes one back through all the procedures. Mine are spread over about thirty years though! I can't believe some of the bits of my 'Terriers' are that old! It is great seeing how you have tackled things. My battle with the smokebox has caused quite a headache, and I have got side-tracked into other things rather than get on with it. It is working out the best way to seal the pipework that passes through the sides. I wish now I had designed the cylinders better, with faces to attach the smokebox to, as in the prototype.
Ed

[Jim]

Good morning Ed, well it's heading that way for those of us who live in the upside down world here 'Down Under' and can't sleep.

That's good news that you found a 'patch' for your browser and you can now see photos previously masked by Photobucket. It also works if you had photos on the Photobucket site.

I've sent you a PM re your smokebox.

Jim

[Jim]

Thank heavens it is a bit cooler today though up in Carlisle Geoff is probably wondering what I'm complaining about as he looks out at the snow.

Weather contrasts aside I was able to start lining the 'CCT' driving trolley today having first marked out the positions for the doors and windows their positions just visible as black marks on the van's side.





It's all slowly coming together.

Jim

[GWR 101]

Hi Jim, that's looking really smart and a joy to behold. You will need to have some pressed and clean overhauls to sit on that , although you are probably always smartly turned out. Mine has ground to a halt again as I am under the weather at the moment , but hopefully on the mend. Regards Paul

[Jim]

Thanks Paul, spotless overalls, polished shoes and clean hands will most certainly be the rig of the day as you suggest.
 
Sorry to hear you're feeling crook, not nice especially when it's cold and miserable outside. A rest up by the fire and a nice soothing ale will have you right in no time.

Hopefully tomorrow I'll be able to mark out and paint the windows, cue in-drawn breath and gasps of horror; but in truth lovely scale windows that lets light in on full sized oil cans, rags, tools and a mouldy sandwich from last year's run isn't what the public wants to see. Then there are the grandchildren who forget and think that kicking the sides of the van will spur the loco on to go faster. Yes, well I have a swift and painful answer to that caper.

Back on task, lining the van has given me a chance to sort out my lining pen so that I can move on and do the tender sides next. I'm quite looking forward to getting it done and the Lion and wheel logo in place.

Jim.

[Lisa]

Jan 13, 2018 11:20:03 GMT Jim said:

Thanks Paul, spotless overalls, polished shoes and clean hands will most certainly be the rig of the day as you suggest.
...
Jim.

Don't forget the greasetop hat Jim!

Temperatures lurking around 40°C here, I'm hardly even looking at the workshop.

[Jim]

Lisa would a grease topped bush hat do or do you think it would be a bit casual? It keeps the sun off and stops my ears getting sunburnt.

I got some more work done on the ride on CCT/driving truck today with a start made on the windows. I think the addition of door handles and hand rails would 'lift' things a bit without getting damaged or caught in clothing.



Jim.

[Lisa]

You could always put your grease top on top of your bush hat Jim.

That CCT's looking good. One of the things we used to do was screw some clear perspex behind the footboards, ended up looking a lot less obtrusive than we though it would (which wasn't much to begin with), and it keeps fingers and toes out of the works.