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Post by baritoneplayer on Jun 27, 2011 21:04:57 GMT
My B1 was bought from Steamdays last year. Unfortunately it had more work required than first thought. But after major cylinder work, and a repaint it's finally back on the rails! This pic was taken 25th June 2011 I recently joined the Isle of Wight Model Engineering Society, who meet at Broadfields, near Cowes, IOW. I never really liked any of the 'Standard' B1 names so I decided to re-name the loco Broadfields. I've also given the loco a unique number and also the livery and 'lining out' is not standard. The lamps on the front are fitted with LED's and fed from a battery under the tender. Why the skeleton in the cab? Why not! LOL! Attachments:
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Post by cplmickey on Jun 27, 2011 21:40:12 GMT
Looking good. I'm not a purist so can appreciate your naming and numbering but the skeleton ...??
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Post by baritoneplayer on Jun 28, 2011 6:17:45 GMT
The driver had to wait soooooooo long for his train to be ready ... !!!
It's a great talking point, for the kids, when there waiting to get on the train though.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 28, 2011 9:05:30 GMT
I guess I am a bit of a purist buy only when it comes to my own work, I believe that in life people should do what makes them happy and to hell with anyone else ( as long as what you do doesn't hurt others or course). Your B1 looks great , I even like the skeleton and of course it's from the LNER stable so gets my thumbs up!.....  Kind regards Pete |
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Post by digger on Jun 28, 2011 23:19:25 GMT
Obviously a ghost train, running with a skeleton staff :-))
Digger
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Post by baritoneplayer on Jul 2, 2011 19:25:28 GMT
Today's running on the new raised track at the Isle of Wight Model Engineering Society Attachments:
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Post by tomibraniste on Jul 4, 2011 9:54:28 GMT
very nice pictures guys , how expensive is one of these?
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Post by baritoneplayer on Jul 5, 2011 20:03:40 GMT
As with everything in life, you get what you pay for!
I paid £6500 for this one but having a complete overhaul and repaint I guess it would be worth around £8500 - £9000.
If you're thinking of buying any loco then the only advice I could give you is simple..... DON'T buy one that hasn't got boiler certificates. and DON'T buy one that you haven't seen running at least on a rolling road, but preferably on a track.
I learnt my lesson the hard way! It came with the boiler paperwork but I only saw it on a rolling road. NEVER AGAIN.
If you get one from a dealer make sure you get some form of warranty.
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springbok
Statesman
Building a Thompson Class B1 in 5"g Plus restoring a 3" Fowler steam road Engine "The Wanderer".
Posts: 570
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Post by springbok on Jul 18, 2011 2:11:51 GMT
Hi
Repaint look fantastic did you do it yourself and if so what process am building a B1
I agree with you on the hard lessons
enjoy
Bob
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Post by ettingtonliam on Jul 18, 2011 15:48:15 GMT
Not wishing to be difficult (OK, thats a lie) but didn't we conclude in another thread last year that boiler certificates were non transferable and were only valid for the person who originally had the test carried out, and then only provided he/she didn't leave the club which issued the certificate? That being the case, whats the value of a boiler certificate when you buy a secondhand loco/traction engine, the new purchaser will have to have it tested all over again, same as buying a boiler with no certificate. Doesn't it effectively render the value of any secondhand boiler to zero, regardless of whether or not it has a test cert?
Richard
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on Jul 19, 2011 9:42:14 GMT
I don't know the rules in UK but, in Australia the buyer is issued with a certificate for the remaining time on current certificate , alternatively I can't see why the buyer can't use the original certificate until it expires as long as he/she has a prove of ownership from the original owner . The certificate is issued in regard to the boiler condition and not for a person even that the owner name is on the certificate .
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Post by baggo on Jul 19, 2011 11:53:21 GMT
I agree with Shawki - the certificate is for the boiler, not the owner. However, just to clarify the matter I've emailed the Southern Fed to get their advice. They did help produce the boiler regs after all. Just waiting for a reply.
John
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steam4ian
Elder Statesman
One good turn deserves another
Posts: 2,069
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Post by steam4ian on Jul 19, 2011 12:38:59 GMT
G'day all
Isn't the boiler stamped for identification as per AMSB Codes?
The value of a current certificate even if you need a new one for your ownership is that it indicates that the boiler was sound when last tested. The boiler could have no certificate for any number of reasons, none of them good.
Regards
Ian
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Post by baritoneplayer on Jul 19, 2011 18:12:48 GMT
Hi Repaint look fantastic did you do it yourself and if so what process am building a B1 I agree with you on the hard lessons enjoy Bob Thank you for your comment. To be brief: The loco was stripped back to bare metal using normal house hold paint stripper. The cab and running boards were removed. The boiler was NOT removed from the chassis. The loco was laid in a cradle, upside down and all of the motion gear was removed. All steel work that required painting was primed with red oxide aerosol bought from Halfords. All non-ferrous metals were etch primed using Precision Paints two part etch primer. 2000 grade wet n dry was used to flat down. I don't have access to any form of spray equipment and so was going to brush paint everything. I'd already bought the tins of paint from Precision when a friend suggested that a local car paint suppliers may be able to turn my paint into aerosols. This indeed was possible at a very reasonable cost. The loco was hung, vertically, from a hoist and then sprayed using the aerosols. A mist coat was sprayed on first and allowed to dry for approx 10 mins. Five subsequent coats were then applied with drying times of around 25 minutes between each coat. The results speak for themselves. The cab panels were given the same treatment. The firebox back plate was etch primed and brush painted. I found using aerosols to give the results I wanted. The wheel spokes were brush painted along with the driving rod recesses and then high temp clear aerosol lacquer was applied. Buffer beams were aerosol sprayed using Precision buffer beam red. The tender was painted using the same method as the loco. The name plates were done using CNC V carve and brush painted. Cab numbers were from Precision. The lining out was done using a Beuglar lining tool. Hope this helps. Roger |
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springbok
Statesman
Building a Thompson Class B1 in 5"g Plus restoring a 3" Fowler steam road Engine "The Wanderer".
Posts: 570
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Post by springbok on Jul 19, 2011 23:59:12 GMT
Roger Fantastic great help  Regards Bob |
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hobbo
Active Member
Posts: 16
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Post by hobbo on Jul 28, 2011 15:30:58 GMT
Hi,would like to know what type of paint did you order,cellulose,enamel,two pack etc.Thanks.
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Post by baritoneplayer on Jul 28, 2011 20:57:23 GMT
Hi,would like to know what type of paint did you order,cellulose,enamel,two pack etc.Thanks. I'm fairly certain that the paint from Precision Paints was enamel. www.phoenix-paints.co.uk/enamel.asp?F_Railway=34I bought the black paint in 250ml tins and then had it turned into aerosols locally. Regards Roger |
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