|
|
Post by Roger on Apr 22, 2016 7:07:46 GMT
That's certainly worth a try, if you can feed it in slowly enough then it might do the trick. I have a feeling it's going to want to dig in though. Still, there's nothing to lose, and you can always use the bush as a filing jig if it doesn't work. Either way, I'm certain that it's possible and a better solution than putting a 'set' in the regulator rod.
|
|
|
|
Post by Cro on Apr 22, 2016 7:33:48 GMT
Thinking from the point of view of swarf/filings in the boiler is it worth throwing something together to fit the end of your vacuum that can be poked through a bush on top of the boiler to try minimise the mess?  ? OR a bit more out there but not sure how well it would work, put all your bungs in the boiler, bar your one largest, seal your tool in its guide bush with an o-ring say and then attach your vacuum to your one open bush and create a vacuum inside the boiler.... ?? |
|
johnthepump
Part of the e-furniture
Building 7 1/4"G Edward Thomas
Posts: 494 
|
Post by johnthepump on Apr 22, 2016 11:34:33 GMT
Sincere congratulation on HM The Queen celebrating her 90th birthday today! On a slightly lesser note, here is my attempt at dealing with that middle girder stay that is just a shade too high. Here is a homemade 1/4" cutter out of silver steel all filed up and hardened and tempered. I need to stone with a triangular oilstone the edges, and make up a sleeved bush for the regulator flange on the backhead and with a bit of luck we should have some progress on reducing that troublesome top of the middle girder stay.  Cheers, Julian Hi Julian, This takes me back to the mid 70's and my time at the Waterhole with Arthur, making Pin drills and D bits. John |
|
nonort
Part of the e-furniture
If all the worlds a Stage someone's nicked the Horses
Posts: 279
|
Post by nonort on Apr 22, 2016 15:53:11 GMT
The idea of spinning the cutter inside the boiler frightens me to death! If the cutter should dig in surly it will bend and flail about inside the boiler! I think that cranking the regulator rod is by far the most sensible option. Perhaps the centre section could be thinned no sharp corners, then cranked over the offending stay. I don't feel that thinning the rod would weaken it very much if you remember how much pressure you use to operate the regulators on your other engines. Thinking outside the box slightly. I don't know if this would work in your case but line boring the offending stay with support at the wet header end and the regulator bush would be a better option.
|
|
|
|
Post by Roger on Apr 22, 2016 16:50:44 GMT
The idea of spinning the cutter inside the boiler frightens me to death! If the cutter should dig in surly it will bend and flail about inside the boiler! I think that cranking the regulator rod is by far the most sensible option. Perhaps the centre section could be thinned no sharp corners, then cranked over the offending stay. I don't feel that thinning the rod would weaken it very much if you remember how much pressure you use to operate the regulators on your other engines. Thinking outside the box slightly. I don't know if this would work in your case but line boring the offending stay with support at the wet header end and the regulator bush would be a better option. I doubt if Julian intends to drive this with a power tool, I think the intention is to turn it by hand, at least I hope so! |
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,922
|
Post by jma1009 on Apr 22, 2016 21:47:39 GMT
Yes, by hand turning!
John that is interesting as I used one of Arthur's pin drills as a template for the cutter teeth.
I am not saying that my above method will actually work perfectly, but I have fitted a long sleeved bush for the cutter this evening, bolted on using the same tapped holes as for the regulator gland fitting, and I am making slow but sure progress with the cutter.
Cheers,
Julian
|
|
|
|
Post by runner42 on Apr 22, 2016 22:31:12 GMT
Hi Julian,
good luck with the unscheduled machining task. You said that the amount is a 1/16" but didn't indicate over what length, a girder stay would probably occupy the whole of the firebox.
Brian |
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,922
|
Post by jma1009 on Apr 22, 2016 23:12:17 GMT
Hi Brian,
You are quite correct. The middle girder stay is 2 7/8" long. However, I am about a third of the way through so far with the cutter.
I will get there eventually, even if I have to adopt a different method later on, but the above seemed the easiest at the moment.
Will keep you posted re progress.
Cheers,
Julian
|
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,922
|
Post by jma1009 on Apr 23, 2016 21:23:30 GMT
The cutter worked ok most of the way but didnt really like it when extended, so resort was had to a 1/4" rat tailed file to get everything ok. So am pleased to say job done and no blisters!
I think I really ought to finish the regulator now adding the revolving disc plus linkeage etc. I havent done a Stroudley type regulator since my first loco, so will be quite interesting. The regulator body is all finished and was fitted to the boiler till yesterday.
I will also tackle the regulator handle which is quite a work of art as you would expect of Stroudley.
Cheers,
Julian
|
|
|
|
Post by Roger on Apr 24, 2016 5:34:46 GMT
Excellent! I was sure you'd sort it out with a bit of cunning and patience.
|
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,922
|
Post by jma1009 on Apr 29, 2016 22:15:25 GMT
I have been a bit pre-occupied the last week or so, but I have made a start on the regulator backhead flange cover. In fullsize this is a Stroudley 'feature'. It covers all the regulator flange studding/bolts as Stroudley thought they out to be covered up with a polished brass cover for some reason. Anyway here is the trial fit. I have a bit more to do till it sits snuggly and further back. It looks like a slightly tapered cover in the pic, but this isnt the case. Turned out of solid and quite thin. It will get hand engraved with the 'open' and 'shut' markings mentioned last week.  Cheers, Julian |
|
|
|
Post by GWR 101 on Apr 29, 2016 22:33:24 GMT
Hi Julian, I must admit I am a great admirer of the detail you are incorporating. Can I ask please on the back head in addition to what I assume are two water gauges there are two other bosses. I assume one may be for the blower but the second one is for what ?. Regards Paul
|
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,922
|
Post by jma1009 on Apr 29, 2016 23:03:17 GMT
Hi Paul,
That is very kind of you.
The left hand vacant bush is I think for the hydrostatic lubricator steam feed. The vacant right hand bush is the blower, and also supplies steam to the steam brake cylinder. In fullsize the right hand size vacant bush was where the steam supply for the Westinghouse pump came from. The 2 injector steam valves are on top of the boiler barrel just behind the dome.
I spent ages making up special stainless bolts etc for the regulator flange fixings, and now they are covered up by a bit of brass! I should perhaps add that a bolted on regulator flange and studded regulator gland usually takes up more space than the LBSC arrangement plus what Martin Evans did on the Boxhill drawings.
Cheers,
Julian
|
|
|
|
Post by GWR 101 on Apr 30, 2016 11:26:41 GMT
Hi Julian, many thanks for the reply. Although my present simplistic build does not contain any brakes my next one might, so it's all useful information. Regards Paul.
|
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,922
|
Post by jma1009 on May 20, 2016 20:04:40 GMT
Im afraid very little progress on Stepney at the moment due to jobs on the house. However I have hand engraved the 'OPEN' and 'SHUT' markings on the brass cover to the backhead regulator flange...  A rather tricky pic to take on the camera, and I havent done any hand engraving for 20 years. It isnt perfect but will have to do. Only a 10 minute job. Cheers, Julian |
|
|
|
Post by runner42 on May 21, 2016 7:43:56 GMT
Hi Julian,
how is the open shut legend going to be indicated, say by a pointer? I assume that the regulator actuating handle is pointing downwards so the convention is for the right hand most position to be shut and the left hand most position to be open so the pointer option wouldn't work. Is it simply to show LHS to open RHS to shut?
Brian |
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,922
|
Post by jma1009 on May 21, 2016 9:35:57 GMT
Hi Brian, Here is a pic of fullsize terrier Newport's cab. The regulator points upwards.  Cheers, Julian |
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,922
|
Post by jma1009 on May 21, 2016 21:01:45 GMT
 I have made a start on the regulator handle today - a silver soldered boss of stainless to a strip of same 1/16" proper for the handle itself. I have always made regulator handles out of stainless. The scale length of the regulator handle is 1 1/16", but I think this is going to be far too short for accurate control of the regulator. I am going to make mine 1 1/2" long between the centre of the boss and the handle on the top. Cheers, Julian |
|
jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,922
|
Post by jma1009 on May 22, 2016 21:31:30 GMT
I thought the following might be of interest. I know my lathe pretty well, and turned up the regulator disc out of cast gunmetal today. Anyway tried it in position with micrometers blue applied. A bit more fettling/ scraping in required methinks!   Cheers, Julian |
|
|
|
Post by Roger on May 23, 2016 7:46:25 GMT
Hi Julian,
You're certainly not alone, this it pretty typical of the sort of 'flat' surface you get with any Lathe or Milling machine. You find this out very quickly when you start to grind things, or in this case, lapping. We tend to assume that because we've got a decent finish that the geometry is good too, but it really isn't, at least, not when you start to get into the realms of a tenth or two.
For something like that, I'd start with a piece of 1200 wet or dry using a surface plate as the backing, and work circular movements over the paper. You can finish with 2000-2500 grit. Just be sure to keep the paper flat. We used to use this technique on the thrust plates of Air Bearing Spindles if they needed a slight cleanup after a minor collision.
|
|
? 
