uuu
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Post by uuu on Jun 1, 2020 12:36:15 GMT
The drastic, but thorough, solution would be to bore out the casting a bit more and fit a cast iron liner. This would block one end of the holes. If the other end isn't blocked by the valve liner, then you could hammer in some brass pegs.
If you can get a photo posted on a hosting site (Flickr or similar) then we could have a look and perhaps come up with easier suggestions.
Wilf
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Post by Roger on Jun 1, 2020 14:36:33 GMT
Without a picture, we have no idea of the proportions, proximity of other features etc. Without seeing it, we're just going to be guessing what might be appropriate. There's a sticky post on how to display pictures, it's not difficult.
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Post by jinks82 on Jun 2, 2020 16:41:40 GMT
Thanks chaps! I was thinking that I might just put three mild steel rods in and silver solder them?
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uuu
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Post by uuu on Jun 2, 2020 18:06:54 GMT
I wouldn't use mild steel, because of rust. I know iron rusts, but it seems to do it in a different way. I'd use bronze or brass. - or stainless steel.
Wilf
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pault
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Post by pault on Jun 2, 2020 19:19:52 GMT
I would be very reluctant to silversolder or braze if you will need to do any machining in that area. If I understand correctly where you will be soldering I would say you stand a strong probability of causing chills on the edges/thin sections. They could be a real pain when trying to machine after soldering. I would screw and peen
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Post by jinks82 on Jun 10, 2020 12:12:41 GMT
Not having oxyacetylene I can't get enough heat to do any brazing or silver soldering with my current oxy-propane set up. I'm going to try JB Weld 8265S as this is non-structural, not visible and should easily withstand the temperature and steam considerations. Sacreligeous to some but needs must...
Thanks for the advice chaps. Id all else fails I will use the screw insert option but this will still have corrosion issues.
One more question whilst on the subject of corrosion in cylinders, what do you guys do about this when laying up your loco for any length of time?
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Post by ettingtonliam on Jun 10, 2020 13:01:49 GMT
The screw inserts shouldn't have any worse tendency to corrosion than the cylinders they are in, because of the (generally) oily atmosphere. Even if they do, a little corrosion may block up any minor leaks.
You've got oxy-propane but can't do brazing or silver soldering? This is surprising.
Photos would still help us understand the problem you have. Posting them isn't difficult, even I can do it!
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Post by coniston on Jun 10, 2020 22:12:09 GMT
To prevent corrosion in iron cylindered locos, after the run I leave the drain cocks open then I squirt a good helping of steam oil (I use 'universal steam oil') down the blast pipe, give it a thorough push back and forth on the steaming bay. My B1 has been in the workshop un run since November and every time I release it to push it along a bit there has been no sign of corrosion or stiffness. In addition you can also squirt some WD40 or similar into the cylinders through the drain cocks but the steam oil down the blast pipe does also ensure the valves get a good dose.
Chris D
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Post by jinks82 on Jun 22, 2020 10:39:56 GMT
I have another question. Most pictures I have seen of both the full size B1 and the 5" models have the front cover of the cylinder covered but with no apparent fixings. Martin Evans tells us to use hex heads. I cannot see how this cover is secured without these.
My cylinder block castings are old Reeves ones. I used the cast-in bores to guide the boring work but have only just realised that the covers will interfere with the valve liner and will therefore need relieving at this point. This is quite disappointing but the cost of these castings is way too prohibitive to start again. I will have to machine in a small crescent to both covers. Has anyone seen this before?
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Post by ettingtonliam on Jun 22, 2020 12:13:44 GMT
With the best will in the world, I'd like to think that cast in bores were in the right place, but in real life, that ain't necessarily so. Cores do shift in the mould for a variety of reasons.
Anyway, you have what you have. Yes, I've seen covers with a little crescent out of them to clear the valve liner, and I don't think anyone will criticise you for doing it.
Certainly in traction engines those false covers tended to be fixed by a single central hex headed bolt tapped into the cylinder cover which usually had a central boss for the purpose, and to space the false cover clear of the stud ends.
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Post by jinks82 on Jun 22, 2020 12:22:13 GMT
Many thanks for the reply Liam(?). That makes me feel a whole lot better! I had wondered whether these were false covers as it seems to me that the least you would need is a ring of bolts! I imagine that these 'decorative' covers are made from quite a thin gauge metal. Any idea how these are fabricated?
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Post by ettingtonliam on Jun 22, 2020 15:08:11 GMT
The full sized ones would most likely have been spun in the sheet metal shop. Either that or stamped. Simplest thing in your size might be to simply turn them from the solid.
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Post by silverfox on Jun 22, 2020 20:07:36 GMT
JInks I agree with liam, as above. On my B17 I turned down the outer part of the cylinder cover so that the bolt heads were 'flush' with the original thickness. Then turned up a cover from a solid pice of bar.
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Post by chris vine on Jun 22, 2020 22:37:05 GMT
Yes, the front cover you can see on the full size engines is a thin sheet metal thing, covering the real cylinder "head".
In a machine shop, when they start work on a casting, they might spend a whole day just measuring the casting and working out one or more datum surfaces so that all the other measured features end up within the casting. It is all too easy to make a start on something which looks correct (eg mounting flange) and start machining, only to find that it was quite a long way off position and then other things get very tricky!!
Chris.
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Post by jinks82 on Jun 24, 2020 16:30:10 GMT
Excellent response as ever. So my question would then be, how do you attach this cover. Is it a press fit?
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mbrown
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Post by mbrown on Jun 24, 2020 16:48:26 GMT
Often, the front ones are fitted with a small screw into the centre of the actual cover underneath. Rear ones are often fitted over the slidebars and gland and, in my experience, tend to stay in place as a result. But they too could be fixed with a small screw at a convenient point, if necessary.
Hope that helps.
malcolm
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Post by jinks82 on Jan 24, 2023 16:07:35 GMT
Many thanks
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on May 11, 2023 8:49:14 GMT
Lately we Steam tested my Springbok and gave it a run , I am not driving any more ( too hard for me to sit on them ) , couple young guys in the club do the honers . studio.youtube.com/video/0Fzifd0KkJI/edit
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uuu
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Post by uuu on May 11, 2023 9:31:19 GMT
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Post by Shawki Shlemon on May 11, 2023 10:27:19 GMT
Its strange , I tried both works . Thanks anyway .
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