|
|
Post by Tel on Sept 21, 2006 8:22:34 GMT
OK blokes, this is semi on-topic. I have a Davy 1.5" Fire Fighting pump powered by a Briggs 'Vanguard' 6hp engine. The last time the creek flooded (about a week after Noah's flood) a branch got tangled up in the suction pipe & dragged the whole issue into the creek. Salvaged pump, emptied out the water, dried it, twiddled this n that & git it going again.
So far so good BUT, after several months of trouble free running I now have rust scale in the fuel tank, which is causing fuel blockages.
First thought - a new fuel tank. Paid a visit to my friendly Briggs dealer today - new tank no problem, can have one in 2 days BUT..... the bottom line is $170  Next plan - derust the old tank. So to my question..... If I fill the tank with the washing soda solution & dangle anode in thru the filler hole will it work? Anyone tried this? At the moment I have rigged a remote tank off another engine on to it, so the repair is non-urgent, but I would really like to get the original tank back on it. All comments and suggestions (except for the rude ones) welcome.
|
|
|
|
Post by baggo on Sept 21, 2006 10:45:41 GMT
Hi Tel,
Have you thought of treating the tank with one of the liquid coatings designed for repairing old tanks? You clean the tank, de-rust it, pour the liquid sealer in and slosh it around inside the tank. It covers the inside with a tough flexible coating that should last forever. I used one called POR15 to repair a rusty and leaking motorbike tank a few years back. I used a zinc phosphate based rust remover called Metal Ready to get rid of the rust. Can't comment on your suggested method as I've never tried it.
John
|
|
|
|
Post by Tel on Sept 21, 2006 11:25:00 GMT
Thanks for that John, I'd never heard of the stuff, but I've found a local supplier - www.ppc.au.com/ for anyone interested. Seems quite reasonably priced as well - certainly a big improvment on what they want for a new tank |
|
|
|
Post by ilvaporista on Sept 22, 2006 7:51:05 GMT
|
|
|
|
Post by Tel on Sept 22, 2006 9:12:57 GMT
Beautiful, thanks Adrian. That's answered my question. I'll do it that way & then follow up with the POr15. Take that Mr. Briggs and Mr. Stratton.
|
|
|
|
Post by the_viffer on Sept 22, 2006 12:24:55 GMT
Hi Terry
They let me off slopping out this morning.
I was going to post about how Phil (Sutton) said he was going to buy us all beer on the Sunday of the Midlands Show (actually I made that bit up but hey a man can dream).
Yep electrolytic rust removal still works. It looks like a novel life form when you do it and you have to be mighty quick painting when you've done it or it'll go rusty again.
The men in white coats, they are com
|
|
|
|
Post by greasemonkey on Sept 22, 2006 13:10:05 GMT
Welcome back The_Viffer. I'll buy you a beer if your there on Saturday!!!
Andy
|
|
|
|
Post by Tel on Sept 22, 2006 18:29:45 GMT
I bought 'im several beers the other day, but 'e didn't show up so I drank 'em meself.
Welcome back Fingers.
|
|
|
|
Post by Phil Sutton on Sept 22, 2006 19:47:56 GMT
Hey t_v,I'm still going sunday,with a large wad of drinking vouchers,so those who want a drink are welcome.................hic! ;D ;D,including Tel! ;D
Phil
|
|
wayne
Seasoned Member
Posts: 137
|
Post by wayne on Sept 25, 2006 22:05:53 GMT
Hi Tell
The trements for tank repair reqire all loose rust to be removed first, 1/2 ball bearings inserted in the tank and vigorisly shake it, your arms will give up befor you have finished the job, once satisfied flush all the crap out, then apply the treatment.
Lernt this one from my dad apparanly it was common practice in the 60s and 70s
|
|
|
|
Post by Tel on Sept 25, 2006 22:46:34 GMT
Thanks Wayne, although rather than the 'shake vigorously' bit I might just strap it to the ram of the shaper for a few days?
|
|
