|
Post by teakfreak on Sept 12, 2011 10:44:20 GMT
I've just rebuilt my ML7 with a countershaft clutch added and an inverter drive. As it now operates at a slightly higher top speed I probably need to be a bit more conscientious about oiling it, but the Myford supplied oil gun is rubbish - can anyone suggest a supplier of a good one?
|
|
|
Post by goldstar31 on Sept 12, 2011 11:27:43 GMT
There is, there was, there might be a newer oil gun from the new Voldemort aka as Shhhhhh You know who.
Going the whole hog, the Arc EuroTrade has an oiling system advertised for the ML7. Frankly, my system is to remove all the stupid oilers and oil with SAE 30 on bearings, the rest gets high bollock oil or snotty slideways lube applied with cheap shite oil guns from my favourite supplier- Back Lane Industries.
I keep wondering if we are all barmy- seriously. I've got cars which all get a service - every year when there is a z in a month or the computers are working.That bit of oil in each gets het up and far more than my lathe ever has. So why bother unless you swamp the thing with cutting fluids and then mine has a supply of lard oil which has kept the pig going 'oink oick' until someone gave it the chop.
It's probably all in the mind. The last time that I got a bollocking for my S7 was because I didn't pick the swarf out of the felt wipers. This guy wasn't a cowboy, he had a bloody big slideways grinder far more recent than 'Voldemort's' And he is still in business.
Ooops
Norm
|
|
|
Post by rodwilson on Sept 12, 2011 16:52:04 GMT
There was a recent article in MEW on an oiler for the Myford and I considered making one myself. PM me if you want a scan
|
|
|
Post by steammadman on Sept 13, 2011 7:10:06 GMT
I'm in your gang goldstar31, i'v been using sae 30 oil for over 40 yrs on my MYFORD , AND IT AINT SWORN AT ME YET, so at my age i dont expect it to start now. " MORE OIL OLD MATE ?"
|
|
|
Post by goldstar31 on Sept 13, 2011 8:03:26 GMT
I was reading the Sunday Times about the Audi A4 and it doing 140mph down the German Autobahns-- and in another para about the time intervals between services-- or perhaps oil changes( which is where we came in) If we do the arithmetic more carefully, that means perhaps 12000 miles per year for couple of years and - well, my little £1 calculator and far older brain than yours can cope. as my little grandson would wisely say-- A LOT. But think again, in another world, the generators in the electricity supply industry never had their oil changed. Can I please go off and do an intravenous coffee change because I'm on a total loss system of lubrication. One is at 81!!!! Norm
|
|
|
Post by teakfreak on Sept 13, 2011 17:46:05 GMT
But they are sealed systems where the oil is pumped around continuously whilst they are running, or the equipment sits in a bath of the stuff. My Myford works on the total loss principle, and other machines that work the steam way - e.g. traction engines, steam railway engines - have a nasty habit of melting their white metal bearings (just like those in the headstock of my ML7) if their lubrication is inadequate. TRy running an Audi A4 for any length of time without oil for that matter! My ML7 is now capable of running 20% faster than its dedsign speed, that's why I'm being cautious!
|
|
|
Post by goldstar31 on Sept 13, 2011 18:19:04 GMT
I'm with you but the Glacier bearings in a ML7 have oil retaining grooves. Above them is a drip feed from a remarkably large container over each spindle bearing.
My concept of the whole idea is that ML7 bearings did run a lot faster than the designed speeds. Probably, the guru who did it all - way back in 1953, was none other than Martin Cleeve-- who didn't just run one motor-- but two on lay shafts.
If you look at his Screwcutting in the Lathe, you will notice that he hadn't all this stupid overbalancing top hamper which most of us have followed. Respectfully, it is all worth a read. Actually, he also re-cycled his oil. I forget where that was but I recall that he used liquid paraffin on the lathe bed.
Dammit man, I'm ancient. I can't remember it all.
Cheers
Norman
|
|
|
Post by teakfreak on Sept 13, 2011 18:53:24 GMT
I'm not really thinking of the spindle bearings, where I can see the oil going where it is supposed to, so much as the counershaft ones and various others that are normally out of sight and out of mind, and just have the nipple and no reservoir. When I do remember to give them a squirt, I'm not convinced that the Myford gun actually delivers anything. Anyway, it's an obsolescent question now as I've accepted the offer made by someone earlier in the thread and will look into that.
|
|
|
Post by goldstar31 on Sept 14, 2011 6:59:59 GMT
I'm definitely baffled. You are writing to say that that you are doubting that your present oil gun is delivering any oil but two points arise- well, in my tiny mind. The first is that if no oil was being delivered, the bearings would- or so you say, run. But they haven't. The next is that you doubt that that any oil is getting through but I have a S7B and had a ML7 and putting oil through has resulted in oil coming out with the old discoloured oil preceding the better(?) stuff.
I think that other ML7 owners will affirm despite the fact that there has been quite a bit of bearing changes.
The next is more interesting. You have upped the top- and I presume the bottom speed of what was once a 1440 motor set up. Consequently, your three phase system will allow smoother and progressive spindle speeds- which I agree with. OK, I have a Transwave set up and 3 phase motor ready to go onto mine( Ex- a 9180) So the increased rev's are available- causing some concern or you wouldn't have raised the matter. But, and this is relevant, your tooling speeds should remain the same. The only reason for increased speeds that I can think of being relevant is that you have changed from carbon and hss tooling to carbides- which has not been mentioned yet.
Before I go that way, I might be missing something.
What is it?
Regards
Norman
|
|
S.D.L.
Seasoned Member
Posts: 107
|
Post by S.D.L. on Sept 14, 2011 8:18:26 GMT
I've just rebuilt my ML7 with a countershaft clutch added and an inverter drive. As it now operates at a slightly higher top speed I probably need to be a bit more conscientious about oiling it, but the Myford supplied oil gun is rubbish - can anyone suggest a supplier of a good one? Get one of the reliance ones. Lots of suppliers at the shows, Reeves with no Vat offer is usuall cheapest. See vault1.secured-url.com/reeves2000/shop_item.asp?sub_cat_id=376&page=2www.blackgates.co.uk/body_reilang.htmlNot cheap but they work at any angle Brilliantly. Steve Larner
|
|
|
Post by teakfreak on Sept 14, 2011 10:34:41 GMT
Steve (and Rod Wilson earlier),
Thanks for the tip offs, I'll look into these. More the sort of response I was hoping for!
There's no need to be baffled. For my own peace of mind I'd like to improve the oiling of my machine, In some of the more inacessible parts of the machine there's no way of telling whether oil is going in or out, so I'd like to have a device that I am more convinced is putting the stuff in. Perhaps I shouldn't have muddied the waters by mentioning the upgrade!
|
|
S.D.L.
Seasoned Member
Posts: 107
|
Post by S.D.L. on Sept 14, 2011 10:41:23 GMT
The advantage of the REILANG ones is the huge pressure you can create, poked into a ball oiler just pump untill clean oil is seen to seep out of the end of shaft / bearing or tailstock and barrel etc..
Steve Larner
|
|
|
Post by goldstar31 on Sept 14, 2011 15:17:55 GMT
I continue to be baffled because it is only the spring that holds the tiny ball that needs to be pushed out of the way by the pressure of whatever oil gun is used. If you can oil a set of main bearings by gravity on the two main spindle bearings, I cannot for the life of me see what all the problem is with minor nipples.
Speaking about the life of a machine, the spindle on my Quorn has nothing more than a blanking plug. The Kennet hasn't got one whereas the Stent has no oil holes anywhere that I can find. I didn't make it but I oiled the table with thixothropic oil or 'snotty' and it is running on steel to steel because it is not castings but fabricated. If I have time, I'm going to play with a canula ie a nipple with the ball and spring removed, a bit of clear flexible pipe and a throwaway hyperdermic syringe.
I could be missing something-- after all these years. Finally!
Norman
|
|
|
Post by rodwilson on Sept 14, 2011 15:53:07 GMT
Sorry Norman; but you are missing something, this time, and this is a problem for many people. This was debated, at length, some time ago on the old Myford Group. (They suggested/concluded Zerks) It is surprizing just how many Myford users have a problem using the oil gun supplied with their machines. A simple seal onto the nipple and a pin to depress the ball is the answer IMHO as described by the author of the MEW article. It's an afternoon's project from the scrap box and quite satisfying........
|
|
|
Post by goldstar31 on Sept 14, 2011 16:12:55 GMT
Oh dear but the difference between the atmospheric pressure of a Myford bit and the human body is identical- hence the canula. Once the oil stops going in, it is in there- all the oil nipples are for is to stop the dirt getting in. How it is put in is academic.
Regards
Norman
-----------------------------------------------------------------------------
I was just getting bored. I've got two Tax Returns on the table to complete and -well, you know.
|
|
isc
Statesman
Posts: 708
|
Post by isc on Sept 15, 2011 11:08:34 GMT
Just a wee bit OT, on my Taiwnese lathe the oil holes for the mandrel bearings were plugged with little plastic plugs, I changed these, and now use the flip top caps from toothpaste tubes. isc
|
|
|
Post by goldstar31 on Sept 15, 2011 19:20:10 GMT
I've just done an oiling of my Myford. I've just removed a couple of oil nipples from the countershaft and simply blasted the old oil out of both bearings from both sides. I simply used a cheap oil can that I normally top up the front headstock spindle on the Super 7 with any old hydraulic oil that I buy by the 5 litres. No fancy oil rings, no PTFE which I intended to substitute. OK--NEXT
So I have an utterly useless, unused and worn out Myford thing with the threads on the clear barrel barely holding. I topped it and did the saddle ones with nowt else but its worn cupped end. The oil came through again from the meticulously cleaned surroundings.
I'm sorry but apart from knackering yet another pair of vinyl gloves and a load of tissues, I now have no doubts whatsoever.
|
|
Neale
Part of the e-furniture
5" Black 5 just started
Posts: 283
|
Post by Neale on Jan 3, 2020 20:01:48 GMT
Last post here was some time ago, so maybe time for a refresh! My elderly Smart and Brown came to me in a state where I had to drive the top slide apart using a big hammer as it had been grease-lubricated via the nipples provided and the grease had turned into something more solid than epoxy. I'm now careful to only use oil (32 grade hydraulic oil, which is cheap enough and seems to be generally recommended) but I still haven't found an oil gun that works reliably without leaking (empty whenever I pick it up again) or squirting oil out of every orifice except the nozzle. Can someone recommend something currently available which will do the job?
suggestions much appreciated!
|
|
uuu
Elder Statesman
your message here...
Posts: 2,860
|
Post by uuu on Jan 3, 2020 21:13:42 GMT
I like the Wanner brand. As hereWilf
|
|
|
Post by coniston on Jan 4, 2020 0:44:04 GMT
I bought one of these at last years London MEX, so far I have found it works well, although don't leave it standing with the nozzle upright, it will leak out f the bottom slowly. I don't remember it being quite as expensive as this but it was over £50 www.myford.co.uk/acatalog/MYFORD-OIL-GUN--15472-47.html
|
|