Heat resistant paint

[ron]

Hi All
I've recently been restoring the steel shell of an old Stuart Turner, Babcock 504 boiler, I initially painted it with Blackfriers heat resistant paint from the local ironmonger, this looked good but after a couple of firings started to peel. Slightly disgruntled I stripped it back to bare metal again and sprayed it with Sperex manifold paint, which from auto experience is excellent but a little fragile to mechanical damage. I was just wondering what others used for high temperature applications?
Ron

[alanstepney]

Barbecue paint seems to work well and withstand rough useage.

[3405jimmy]

I used Halfords heat resistant paint (might have been hamerrite(sp?) from halfords) Has been very robust tends to dull down but a touch of polish keeps the smokebox nice. I usualy re-paint the cylinder block every year to keep it looking fresh.

[ron]

Hi Alan
The Blackfriers paint is sold as suitable for barbies, but from my limited experience of boiler restoring and vast experience of barbying ;D I don't think it would last the course.

The Halfords paint sounds similar to Sperex, I'll check out the next time I'm in Halfords, thanks.
Ron

[chris vine]

Hi Ron

[chris vine]

Hi Ron,

Sorry about the short reply.....
You might try ‘Stove Bright’ (log burning stove) paint, it is a range of high temperature silicone based paints in spray-cans, made by Forrest in America. It is on my stove and seems to be very tough and heat resistant. The uk agent is
Calfire Spareline Ltd., Gledrid Industrial Park
Chirk, Wrexham LL14 5DG
Tel [phone]
Email: [e-mail]

Cheers Chris,
PS it will soon be too late for steam/beer in the garden!!!!

[ron]

Hi Chris, thanks for the info, sorry I haven't been in touch, up to the oxters in alligators at the moment as the saying goes.

Ron

[havoc]

The BBQ paint I got from the DIY shop is silicone based. It can stand he heat rather well, but it got a bit more shiny on the smokebox. It holds well for the moment. On the other hand, it seems to become soft each time it is heated and everything sticks to it at that point (so don't tough it wih a rag...). And it can not stand synthetic thinner! If you ever want to remove it just wipe it with a cloth soaked in thinner and everything comes off.

[Chris Kelland]

Hi Ron & All,

Funny old world, someone else restoring a 504. Regarding the paint, I have tried most high temp paint without a lot of success on smoke boxes. I then remembered cylinder paint, it has stayed on everything with no problem. I have also used Sperex exhaust manifold paint with great success, also comes in pretty colours!

Ron, have you replaced the asbestos sheets that line the firebox? I am fitting a ceramic gas burner and want to find some sheet material to replace the asbestos with. All I seem to find is the soft boiler lagging, which is no good.

Regards,

Chris.

[ron]

Hi Chris
I was lucky, the asbestos liners were in remarkably good condition, and being of an age group that wallowed in asbestos as an apprentice it doesn't particularly bother me, although I treat it with a bit more respect nowadays.
I was also thinking of trying to fit hardwood strips to the top exposed part of the drum retained with a couple of brass bands, to help the efficiency and make it a bit less hazardous.
I've ordered a ceramic burner from Forest Classics but it will take them about a month to deliver [what IS it with model engineering suppliers they seem to be on a different timewarp ] do you know of any other suppliers?
The spirit burner that came with it surprised me, it works remarkably well, only probems are, it is totally uncontrollable and it goes through meths at about the same rate as I go through beer ;D
I've now done a couple of runs since the Sperex went on and it looks as if it's doing the job.
Ron

[Chris Kelland]

Hi Ron,

The asbestos liners on mine are getting a bit flaky, so if I can find a substitute I would be happier to use it. I have some wood strips the right length from a condemned vertical boiler which I will ultimately fit, I think it sets the boiler off nicely.

If you buy your burner from another dealer it will be made by FC anyway, must be why his delivery dates are so long. I got mine in 5 weeks though I was warned when I placed the order. It looks good and burns well.

Regards,


Chris K.

[ron]

Hi Chris
I can't think of a substitute, all the modern thin insulation seems to be soft, only thing I can suggest is, if the asbestos liners aren't completely shot is to spread a layer of Firegum on them with a spatula to seal them. Firegum is a VHT white exhaust assembly paste available at most auto shops which I used to stick the liners to the plates and seal the edge of the plates to the drum.
The other thing I was looking at was trying to make some use of the large amount of heat that disappears up the chimney to waste, something like a feedwater heater at the chimney base. When I had the plates dismantled I drilled, tapped and plugged the boss at the base of the chimney mount for future use and there's plenty of room for a small copper coil in there.
Ron

[havoc]

I have some material here that is mineral fibre based. Looks like 4mm thick cardboard. I use it to solder on and have used it as protection when brazing. If exposed to the burner it will char like cardboard (and smell like it) but not burn. It is easy to cut etc, but might be difficult to bend. Don't know how it will behave when wet.

www.geb.fr got to "documentations", then "chaleur et feu" and download the "Catalogue Chaleur et Feu", it is on page 8. (but it is in french...)