Northumbrian Build Thread

[jma1009]

a tip that was passed on to me when tapping small size threads was to hold the work being tapped in the hand rather than clamp in the bench vice. for small taps i have a small chuck fitted with a round wooden handle like a file handle. i find that this is far more sensitive, and quick, and avoids the uneven turning of the tap by the usual method of using a tap wrench. good thread tapping compound is a must ( i use a ROCOL compound, and gave up on 'trefolex' years ago), and chamfering the exit side helps prevent breakages as in my experience this is when the tap is most likely to break when exiting the hole. i also often go up a size on the tapping drill size. a good set of number drills is a must in my book, and i always mike the drill before using to make sure it is the one i want! sometimes it is necessary to withdraw and clean the flutes and hole of swarf and then add more tapping compound. tapping blind cylinder cover holes in gunmetal cylinders is my worst nightmare, and worse than steel in my experience!

good luck with progress on your loco!

cheers,
julian

[Deleted]

Apr 28, 2012 11:34:54 GMT jma1009 said:

a tip that was passed on to me when tapping small size threads was to hold the work being tapped in the hand rather than clamp in the bench vice. for small taps i have a small chuck fitted with a round wooden handle like a file handle.

cheers,
julian

Pete, as Julian suggests, I adopt the same approach unless I can hold the work absolutely square to the tapping chuck.

These little drivers I find ideal: the taps are from Arc Eurotrade, and each one is slightly larger than the last, thus reducing the chances of overloading the tap.

[peteh]

Thanks for the advice folks. I have ordered from RDG in the UK so once again I am playing the waiting game. My original BA taps were a cheap set and I have found, like many others, that whilst OK they don't have the staying power.
I have used RDG in the past ans have had great results so far - at way less than the cost locally (read 5000Km away!) - including postage!

No work today as it was our clubs run day - with 8 parties booked we had 5 locos running flat out for 4 hours. By the time we had done the initial set-up and clear away it makes for a long session and I usually can't stand at the machines after that.

On another subject I was looking at making a simple clamp for my digital verniers for my lathe - the main feed dial is only calibrated in 0.5mm and I am needing better accuracy. I read up on using magnets on another thread but reckon I can come up with a slightly more permanent solution which is still easily removable. I'll keep you posted if I go ahead with it.

[abby]

I tap a lot of 10 and 12 BA holes both in steel and gun-metal .
Having only 1 pin vice and constantly changing taps , I was spending more time looking for taps on my untidy workbench than working .
I decided it was time to make some more then I found these on Ebay for less than a fiver delivered.
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/4pc-Pin-Vice-Set-0-0-8mm-0-8-1-3mm-1-3-3-1mm-3-1-4-8mm-V0480-SeeText-/140696307354?pt=UK_BOI_Electrical_Components_Supplies_ET&hash=item20c227469a
Not brilliant and very slightly rust stained but well worth a fiver !
The two smaller sizes I have converted so they can be used in a 1/4" collet to hold small screws whilst shortening the length.
A very useful buy for less than 5 quid , I am sending for another set !
Dan.

[jma1009]

taps can be 'funny'. sometimes ive broken a tap straightaway on the first hole, and then done countless others with a different tap of the same size with no problem whatsoever! perhaps i havent warmed up! (though incidentally i was also told never to use carbon steel taps when they are cold). i have a 6BA tap that i have had for years and was secondhand when i got it, and it has always been brilliant.
i tapped 12 10BA holes on STEPNEY's buffer beams recently by holding the buffer beam by hand and using the small chuck and wooden round handle as described above, though i did go up one size on the tapping size as the holes were blind and 5/16" deep in steel, and through 2 pieces of steel rivetted together. Tubal Cain has a very useful set of tables in one of his workshop series books detailing thread engagement percentages with different size drills for all sorts of BA and ME size threads that is very useful, and it is interesting to note that his tapping sizes are quite generous (an enlarged copy of the relevant pages hangs on my workshop wall). i often go down a size or two on the clearance hole to get a good fit depending on the situation.
i do think that a good quality tapping compound is very important for steel.

[peteh]

Some of my new toys arrived today.
1/4" reamer so I can finish the wheels!, a live centre and a nice 2" milling vice. Up to this point I have been using a cheap drilling vice from Bunnings (like B&Q?) which does not even close parallel. Biggest problem has been finding a vice that will fit under the mill in my combination lathe/mill without taking all of the space!

Just waiting on the new tap now - and another order I have put in to Polly Engineering for the lubricator and a few other bits and bops.

Having said that nothing done tonight - late home and quite tired so decided on a nano nap instead.

[doubletop]

Whats happened to livesteambuilds? Its says its out of steam

Pete

[Jim]

Mike decided to close the site Pete and has sent out an email to all the members explaining the situation. A bit sad to see a friendly and promising site close.

Jim

[peteh]

Totally agree Jim

[doubletop]

Pete

I didn't get the email, ho hum, at least you've got your build running here.

Its a pity this site doesn't ping you when a post is made to a thread you are watching.

OK what have you been up to?

Pete

[peteh]

Hi Pete,

Short answer to your question is 'not a lot'. My wife and I are rogaining this weekend so have been preparing for that and not working on the locomotive. Also a couple of mdical trips for my existing condition (diabetes).

The 1/4" reamer has arrived, along with a live centre for my tailstock and a proper 2" milling vice. However I still have a couple of parcels to come, both from the UK.

First is from RDG and has my new taps and the second from Polly Engineering with the lubricator and copper pipe etc. The lubricator is substantially less from there than from the east of Australia - and the post is also often quicker

I have Monday off next week, and if the muscles aren't too knackered I will try to get some shed time in then.

Agree that Mike closing live steam builds is a blow - I put more details in those posts than on here but such is life - it never really took off as far as I know.

Well, a lot of words to say very little!

Pete

[doubletop]

My Northumbrian has been parked up. In fact its been allowed back in the house for the winter. Truth be known it was getting in the way in the workshop and until the track is finished at the club there's no point in trying to run it. I'm now making some progress on my Simplex refurbishment.

I spent a bit of Saturday over are the club helping out on the track construction. They had a good turn out, so there was a lot of debate about the merits or otherwise of this or that and slowish progress on the actual work. No doubt you know how it works.

I'll keep an eye on how you are doing on your build, but as this site doesn't send notifications I may miss something, so please feel free to email me direct if you have any questions.


Pete

[peteh]

Cheers Pete,

All being well I will be continuing tomorrow. Good news was Maz and I did our longest hike for rogaining - 20.1Km in just over 7 hours of bush walking - and are still mobile the day after

[doubletop]

Pete

That's good news about the mobility the day after. Still good today? The odd occasion I've done anything similar I've found the day after is fine, its the day after that that gets me.

Either way it shouldn't hold you back cranking that hand wheel.

Pete

[peteh]

OK Pete - I can take a hint

I did manage to move OK today so in between taking children to school and uni (and back!) managed to finish off the crossheads.

I broke the 3mm drill bit in one of the heads, passing through a cross hole, so ended up needing to make a new blank. With the new mill vice this was a breeze ;D should have got one ages ago. Both crossheads have been drilled exactly 6.35mm apart for each set of holes and the crosshole tapped 4BA.

Attachments:

[peteh]

Got the remaining parcels today so I am a happy chappy

Finished tapping the tender horn stay bolt holes and just used some 8BA bolts I had laying around to hold the horn stays in place.

Also made the two crosshead pins so very happy with the 2 hours spent in the shed tonight.

Attachments:

[Deleted]

Pete
You are making great progress and showing great perseverance. I for one haven't touched the Brit in weeks! I'm off to my boat tonight via St Malo, caravanning down the West Coast. Back in the late Autumn when I really do expect to finish the beast!
Cheers all
JB

[peteh]

Just a quick update today - drilled and reamed all axle holes in the tender wheels. Next stage is to finish the wheel mandrel and then finish turn all of the wheels. I will do the driven wheels first and then turn down the mandrel to suit the tender/trailing wheels.

Pete

[peteh]

2 down and 6 to go! I have finished the mandrel and completed the machining of the driven wheels for tread and profile, just the crank pin hole to add now. However while the mandrel is still in the lathe I will first re-machine it to suit the tender/trailing wheels and complete them. I must admit that the wheels were frightening me at first (mainly from the cost of the castings) but all has gone well for the first pair.

Attachments:

[doubletop]

Nicely done Pete

I know how you feel, I went through the same emotions. The drivers were my first ever attempt at wheels.

Apart from the ability to re-use the jig, it makes you wonder why we both didn't do do the small wheels first? Jigs are cheap.


Pete