Just getting started

[lescollier]

Hi I am just putting my workshop together to facilitate building a loco, but thats were my first problem of many lies.

'What shall I build'

Everyone I speak to says build something small like an 0-6-0 tank. However someone else said 'if you don't like what your building it will never get finished'. I am trying to love tanks, but feel that I may only ever build one loco, so make it a good un.

I think I would really like to build in 5" gauge and would prefer to build a tender loco. My skill set is not too bad in as much I did a mechanical apprenticeship and I have always modeled some thing or other, whether it's a radio controlled plane or 'O' gauge kits.

I have my eyes set on something like a 'Hall', Black 5, Princess or another loco along those lines an A3 maybe, but when it comes to sorting this lot out into easy and demanding build's. I do not have the experience to draw on to see the looming pitfalls. Thats where I need your help.

I need 4 tons of advice, a gallon of confidence, and three cubic yards of skill, not to mention the right machines for the job any words of wisdom gratefully received

[Steve M. W]

Hi
First stop join your local club, there you will be able to see many locos built by different people and to different standards. Do you want to build to scale to the last rivet or build to good working model or both. From a club once they get to know you will get to visit other workshops and see different types of machines and learn the good and bad points (in there opinion). Then you have to work out the good advice from the bad and make your own decision. the best advise I had was treat every component as a small job on its own and complete it the loco across six or eight sheet looks a mammoth task but each part as one job is not so bad. There is the same amount of work and number of components to make in a 3.5" as in a 7.25" it’s just the bits are bigger (and castings are dearer) but its only money.
Only my opinion there are wiser and more experienced people on this site who hopefully will give you some input.
Good luck

Steve

[SteveW]

Les (?),

I started out the same way eight, nine or maybe ten years ago along a similar line. I scoured the catalogues looking for something interesting and not too easy. The wheels had to be do-able on 3-1/2" centre height and no tapered boilers.

I reasoned that it had to be interesting/daft enough to keep my interest over the long term. The aim was to get good enough to pull it off. In the end I pushed the boat out and invested over a grand in the bits for Reeves' "Locomotion".

The next problem was to get good enough not to screw 'em up. To this end it's been all about doing loads of little jobs to get my eye in, get to see stuff, listen to folk and remember a load of stuff I did at school back in the late sixties when we did proper metalwork classes. This included doing sand casting of alloy, making a little steam turbine with boiler, a 1"x1" single cylinder steam engine plus other stuff.

It's not until you start cutting various metals that you get to know what goes wrong and how quick it can happen. Be ready to make mistakes. I've learnt more from screwing up and recovering the situation than from my successes. Have a long think before cutting metal, you just can't put it back on easily. Experience is directly proportional to the number of screw-ups made.

At the end of the day you have to JFDI.

[modeng2000]

JFDI?

John

[jones]

JFDI: Just ******* Do It!

Regards
Andrew

[Tony K]

It means Just Do It, with a little extra emphasis on the F! ;D
Regards, Tony

[spurley]

Same as RTFQ in exams! I had to tell my kids it meant Read The Full Question ;D

Which I suppose is true anyway!

Regarding the post; Sweet Pea is nice and simple and will get you started and you can learn all the little nuances and pitfalls that are there to catch out the unwary! I would have thought a Black 5 or B1 would be a great start for anyone capable of machining and reading drawings? Both outside two cylinder Walshaerts gear powerful and simple. Plenty of other built so lots of advice and pictures avaiable, The Black 5, as I expect you know, has a taper boiler so would be slightly harder for a boiler 'virgin' to build. How about an LBSC Speedy? These are tried and trusted locos and, being a tank engine, might avoid the possibility of you wanting to rush the tender build of the Black 5 or B1 discussed above?

Whatever you choose enjoy the build and keep us all up to date with progress please

Cheers

Brian

[modeng2000]

I must have lead a sheltered life!

John

[havoc]

There is the same amount of work and number of components to make in a 3.5" as in a 7.25" it’s just the bits are bigger

About the same advise I got at the club. "It doesn't matter what you make or what size. You have to make all the parts anyway." So if you prefer a tender loc over a tank, pick a tender loc you like. Motivation is a big factor in this hobby.

[Tel]

Keep looking and learning, the locomotive will CHOOSE YOU when the time is right. Thing is, if you don't love it, it won't get finished. In the meantime a couple of stationary engines and workshop projects will serve to get your hand and eye in.

[SteveW]

Les,

Just remembered the other bit of advice I had on loco choice: go for an outside action. Its the same amount of work (maybe less fiddly) as inside action but you and other folk get to admire it. It occurs to me that if you choose inside action it might as well be electric.

Re JFDI... I sometimes have to explain it as "Just Flippin Do It" but have to cross my fingers preferring the version above.

At the end of the day JFDI says it all when it comes to model engineering but you do have to choose one first.

[chris vine]

Hi Les,

It seems that for a first model it would be helpful if the plans are really good, with no errors and sufficient detail to make all the parts and not have to guess the later stages.

Years ago I built a "Bridget", a small 0 4 2 tank engine, designed by Ken Swan. I have to say that his drawings were excellent. You could almost make all the bits, put them in a drawer and build the engine when they were all done. Many designers have a lot of mistakes and leave a lot to the imagination.

[chris vine]

Sorry that got posted too quick.

What I wanted to suggest is that others could offer suggestions of designs they have built where the plans are really good as this would be a shortlist (very short?) for a new-comer to think about.

Chris.

[standardsteam]

I'd start with a test piece that you can "see the wheels go round" early rather than have a pile of bits for a long time if you haven't made anything before. That way it's cheap to make a bit twice (I've made enough bits twice during my attempts!). Maybe make a Stuart model or a hot air engine whilst you make up your mind about the engine, collect some tools and hone your skills on the way...?

[stevep]

I agree with the advice regarding size, and I would urge you, as a beginner, to think very carefully about building a small engine.

My first engine was a 3 1/2" "Rob Roy", which runs like a dream, but has such a small reserve of anything (fire, steam or water), it's not the easiest thing in the world to drive. This can be very dispiriting.

Build at least 5", especially if it's a tank, or a narrow gauge loco in 3 1/2". Building a 4-6-0 tender engine means 16 wheels. This in itself can be a challenging prospect.

I would urge a tank engine, ideally with a 2-6-2 wheel arrangement. This has the advantage of not too many wheels, all the weight available for traction, not to big or heavy to move, and a good sized boiler.

Cheers....Steve

[Shawki Shlemon]

I have been in the hobby for 26 years, I built over 20 engines of all kinds 2.5" to 7.25" tank and tender . The number of parts is more or less the same for the same wheel arrangement .The sizes are different but it does not mean the bigger is easier .I started with 0-4-0 Conway for experience , for me this proved to be a very good idea, but we are not all the same .However before selecting an engine visit few clubs and have a look ,ask questions,and then decide what you want .It is a good idea to join a club where you can get a lot of advice and even lend of special tools , plans and other things .Acquire plans ,castings and frame materials. Spend some time studding the plans,find any errors and identify any changes you may want to do if any .Be prepared to scrap some parts in the process of manufacturing as we all have done and continue to do .Plan your work and start and be patient as this takes a long time before you see real progress,but no despair as it will all come together later and the satisfaction is great.My last advice is ask always if not sure .
Good luck

[dscott]

My advice is to build an engine that you are interested in, and if it does include a tender, use this as your first loco, after all it does have 6 wheels and should run allong the track when finished. Then build your second loco which can be used to pull the tender.
I wish I had built a tender first.

David Scott.

[Garry Coles]

Hi
When I first started loco building, I wanted to build the 3 1/2 "Rob Roy" . I was advised on this site to build the 3 1/2 "William" as this would be a much better model, and tends to run a bit better. Well so far so good, should have a rolling chassis by this Xmas. Being a 2-6-2 the amount of wheels was not to bad. Horn blocks next, 2nd attempt !!! I still have the drawings for Rob Roy, and hope to build her one day as I like the look of her.
I was also advised to start with a 5" gauge loco as this might be easier because all the bits are a bit bigger, but still opted for 3 1/2" .
Cheers
Garry

[ilvaporista]

Or what about something quick and simple to start like a simple battery electric loco? Can be made fairly quickly, will serve as a test piece for devloping skills and will pull you about to have a bit of fun.

[paul]

I am trying to love tanks, but feel that I may only ever build one loco, so make it a good un.

TRYING to love tanks?! You should be ashamed Tanks are fantastic - I know I spent a day firing/driving one last month. YESSSSS!!