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Post by stuartk on May 18, 2012 16:11:53 GMT
Reading SME are actively considering an approx 900 foot extension of their multi gauge track, raised track in Prospect Park.
We have looked at a number of possible construction methods.
Rather than 're invent the wheel' , there is probably someone out there, who has also recently considered the most practical/cost effective and durable method for raised track construction ?
If so could you share your conclusions with us - please ?
Thanks
Stuart RSME
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Post by sncf141r on May 24, 2012 0:37:30 GMT
I think it depends on weather, and availability of materials, and skill of builders.
I like Hamilton Ontario's all-welded "portable" track, as it can (and, has) been moved and re-arranged.
The Ottawa Ontario's "post in ground" technique means that if the track needs to be moved sites, or even if posts lift (frost heave) then maintenance is an issue.
Not much help, I'm afraid.
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denis M
Part of the e-furniture
Posts: 300
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Post by denis M on May 28, 2012 22:19:52 GMT
When we built ours at Oxford 25 years ago we looked at all sorts of ideas but settled for B.R point roding longitudinal frames, with wooden sleepers and we used 9 inch or so concrete water pipes filled with cement.
The point riding is brilliant stuff but may be hard to get hold of now but is was so cheap at the time. In fact it was a member from Reading that got it for us.
Regards
Denis
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gwr
Involved Member
Posts: 56
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Post by gwr on May 29, 2012 20:24:58 GMT
We developed the point rodding theory to the following. (including structral calcs required for building regs, as the track was funded by local authority)2 no back to back 125 x 65 PFC, with 75mm box section supports at 3m centres. The concrete pads were precast and laid on sand and cement blinding. (150mm subbase underneath) The channel was rolled to various radius, ie toe in and toe out to enable the track alignment to be achieved. The 3m support centres allowed the best use of the 6.2 material lengths. The track is laid on two recycled plastic planks, 100 x 25mm and the sleepers on top. The profiled rail is then screwed to this, and ride is exellent.
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jma1009
Elder Statesman
Posts: 5,918
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Post by jma1009 on May 29, 2012 22:31:58 GMT
hi stuart,
i had the unfortunate task a few years ago of designing a new club track, and we looked at all the best tracks we were aware of at the time. part of the design solution was solved by don young donating the aluminium rail he had acquired for his planned track round his home at adgestone on the isle of wight. we were fortunate also to acquire a large lot of 4" dia steel tube used as glasshouse heating ( for growing tomatoes ) at no cost.
anyway, we decided upon the use of steel channel beams with hard wood sleepers attached, the sleepers being rebated for the rails of vignoles section, fixed with stainless screws (as we had noted from other clubs problems after a few years with ordinary screws). all joints were properly fishplated with stainless jig made fishplates and stainless screws with nyloc nuts (another tip we picked up from examining other club tracks). one of our members undertook the making of the sleepers (he subsequently wished he hadnt, but made an excellent job of them all!). the steel work was bent using a borrowed hydraulic ram set up. the 4" dia tube was cut into lengths and had channel supports welded on top, and was concrected in place in quite deep holes whilst attached to the beams all pre bent and assembled. this gave a very solid setting for the supports, as opposed to being laid on sand and cement on concrete pads as had previously been the case and had caused numerous problems over the years on the previous track supports.
ordinary steelwork will require repainting etc every so often which is quite a chore. the BR point rodding (if you can get it these days) doesnt seem to require such frequent treatment.
in hindsight i would strongly recommend the extra cost involved in buying proper steel vignoles section rail and plastic sleeper material, as opposed to aluminium rail and hardwood sleepers. i would also strongly recommend setting up the beams and concreting their supports into the ground (with the concrete being suitably tapered to allow rainwater to flow off). i wouldnt advocate the concrete pad method from previous experience. stainless fishplates and screws with stainless nyloc nuts can also be recommended. rebating the sleepers for the rail base can also be recommended. you will find that by far the most expensive item is the stainless screws for fixing the rail to the sleepers, but from experience the extra expense is well worthwhile!
hope the above is of interest,
cheers, julian
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Post by ejparrott on Jun 13, 2012 16:12:18 GMT
The Rugby track is bar rail in hardwood sleeps, on timber beams, and gives a very good 'soft' ride. I've found some tracks built on concrete and steel beams to give a very 'hard' ride.
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Post by Rex Hanman on Jun 14, 2012 12:05:26 GMT
We did ours like this. We concreted the posts into the ground at 8' centres. The larger post telescopes over them with a u shaped piece of steel welded on top. Once the timbers were fitted we simply jacked them up until they were level or at the right gradient, then a hole was drilled through both posts and a bolt inserted. Any future subsidence can be taken care of by removing the bolt, re adjusting, and a new hole drilled. simples! ;D You are welcome to come and see it/ try it out.
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Post by Deleted on Jun 14, 2012 21:58:06 GMT
Very ingenious re the height adjustment, but I would prefer to see anti-tipping rails fitted to the sides of the track. If a trolley tips and the footboard collides with a post, a very nasty accident could arise.
Of course, accidents never happen........until they happen.
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Post by Rex Hanman on Jun 15, 2012 9:30:16 GMT
You are correct about the anti tip rails. The idea is to weld brackets to the upper half of the post with anti tip rails on the ends. That way future height adjustment doesn't affect the relative position of the anti tip rails. We haven't got round to it yet. :-/If we did public running they would have been fitted from the start.
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Post by Rex Hanman on Aug 3, 2012 14:23:31 GMT
Does anyone know if there is a "standard" anywhere for raised track dimensions? Eg, Minimum/maximum rail height, minimum radius, clearances, etc? I have looked on the internet without success, I thought there might be something on the SMEE site but could find nothing. (I'm not a member so there may be something that I can't access).
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Post by ejparrott on Aug 6, 2012 15:44:12 GMT
I have a feeling I have seen a drawing...possibly in RMES's safety manual..its not a drawing of our track I hasten to add.
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Post by doubletop on Aug 25, 2012 11:16:10 GMT
This is how we are replacing our raised track at HVMES hvmes.com/new_track.htmlHopefully of use, it does offer a different approach. Pete
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Post by Rex Hanman on Aug 26, 2012 7:03:44 GMT
WOW! That is fantastic! I can only assume concrete is much cheaper in New Zealand. Our club could never afford that. We don't have access to the machine either, but I think you are doing a lovely job!
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Post by sncf141r on Aug 29, 2012 12:13:44 GMT
Pete; (some pictures did not display - is it my computer?) As a one-time member (did live in Lower Hutt back in about 1991), I remember well this track and club house. Very interesting build! I'm glad to see your elevated track going still. Another JohnS.
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