Steam pipe lagging

[robsedman]

Sorry if this is a very silly/common question! I’m new to ME, just completing my first project. What can I use for steam pipe lagging? I’m looking for the kind of thing that looks like sacking soaked in plaster on full size engines – usually whitewashed. All suggestions appreciated. Cheers. Rob (Hereford UK)

[spurley]

Hi Rob

The 'whitewashed stuff' on full sized engines is /was probably asbestos. This material is now banned from use and any asbestos found in applications will need to be removed by professionals at enormous cost and inconvenience.

Asbestos, especially the blue variety, was found to cause terrible damage to lungs ending up in terminal cancer or 'asbestosis' if/when the fibres were inhaled. Companies and corporations, including the Royal Navy, have been, and still are being, sued for exposing their staff to the stuff. Even asbestos clad buildings are being condemned and have to be dealt with by specialists. Boiler joints or gaskets cannot be made from it either under current regulations.

Having said all that I'm not too sure what could be used in a model form to look like the ropes and sacking that was used. I have a couple of oven gloves made from some form of heat resistant material which would look the same, and probably perform a similar function, in the larger scales.

However, best to check with the domestic authorities before helping yourself ;D
Cheers

Brian

[SteveW]

Rob,

The model steam boat guys at the club use common string and PTFE plumbing tape on all the exposed steam plumbing.

The string is wrapped tightly around the pipes and then a layer of PTFE tape is wrapped over that to keep it all together. It looks very authentic and really is the business. I'm not aware of any other fixings used, maybe a spot of glue on the string just to keep it together long enough to get the PTFE tape on. Try it.

[GWRdriver]

Rob,
Here is a trick I use for stationary engines which works well.. As mentioned by Steve, this is common cotton cord, a twisted strand cord which is called "chalkline" over here, wrapped around the piping. Once in place with the bitter ends thinned and tucked, I give it a coat of thinned varnish which serves to cement the ends and tighten it all up. The cord on this particular model (Stuart Beam) has been left "natural" although I could easily have painted it white. Another finish would be to use artist's "gesso" or sizing which is typically brilliant white and very tenacious.

[robsedman]

Many thanks for all the ideas. I'll have a few experiments and see which looks best/stays in place well. Rob

[havoc]

Round shoelaces have been used to good effect. Use the round cotton type. If you push it togheter, then it opens in the middle.