LNER Y4 Build

[donashton]

Callum,
Apologies if you are a total beginner. We have all neglected to say that the frames should be clamped as a pair and the holes drilled through both frames at once. A couple of roving clamps in addition will close-couple the area you are working on to prevent the burr under the top plate from lifting it up.
Enjoy your project even if/when you make a mistake!
Don.

[peter99]

Just finished spraying the chassis and wheel assemblies of my Y4. No, it's not to Doug's latest arrangement but to the previous Blackwall. Been working on it for some years now, have had one or two health probs which slowed me down somewhat. Anyway the colour(?) is Satin Black. Think I prefer what it was in the bare metal, but no doubt Satin Black will grow on me. I hope!
My query is, where do you stop with the Satin Black? The ash pan area, vermillion yes, but how about the brake, drain cock linkage and levers, brake cylinder etc?
Presumable, all to be Satin Black? Would appreciate your advice!

[dinmoremanor]

I would go with the satin black on the frames, wheels, inside of the frames around the firebox, running plates, smokebox, tops of tanks and cab roof. Everything but the boiler and external surfaces of the tanks which look best in gloss. This I feel gives a good representation of a clean full size engine. On the full size we paint the running plates, frames, wheels etc with gloss black but within no time at all it tones down to a satin effect as only the boiler, tanks, tender etc ever receive polishing.

It has worked well on my O2 I feel. Most important thing with a black engine is to have some contrast, nothing worse than an engine in high gloss or satin/matt from one end to the other, just looks wrong.




And a full size black engine as an example: www.flickr.com/photos/adashpifflemeister/7173929239/in/pool-dinmoremanorltd

[Deleted]

That's a lovely looking loco you have there dinmoremanor..

Pete

[Callum Darraugh]

I suppose an update is well overdue! I managed to find a part built loco on eBay, which consists of assembled wheels, axleboxes and machined wheels, machined cylinders along with various other parts. This should give me a better kick up the rear to get on with it!

I'll post some pictures of it next week when I'm home again.

Callum

[jma1009]

hi callum,
dont know what the GER livery was inside the frames (im sure if you email doug hewson he will tell you) or someone else on here will know, but there is a good reason for painting the inside of the frames red as it shows up anything missing or fallen off if kept clean! i would paint the inside of the frames, stretchers, inside and outside of the buffer beams gloss red enamel. signal red is correct for the BR era, with certain exceptions. drain cock linkeage and levers, brake rods, brake cylinder, and cylinder block black. some companies painted the area of the inside of the frames around the firebox black such as the GWR. vermillion was not used in BR days for insides of frames apart from a few exceptions usually due to old company traditions not being surpressed for the top link locos and to use up stocks of old paint/pigment. in my own current case there is some disagreement as to whether on LBSCR locos with Stroudley livery the inside of the frames ahead of the cylinders (and inside of the front buffer beam) was painted black! you think you know everything there is to know about a certain company's livery for a particular period then all sorts of 'grey areas' emerge!
it is a shame none of the Y4s ever received that glorious deep blue of the old GER passenger locos! if you painted yours this livery, i for one wouldnt complain same as i never complain about a SPEEDY in GWR green!
cheers,
julian

[ivanp]

Hi All
I am also making a Y4
I wonder how many more are ?
it would be nice to see how we are all getting on
I have the frames complete with wheels just doing the con rods , I will post some pic soon
Ivan

[Callum Darraugh]

Hi Ivan,

Nice to see that there are other people building this loco! Feel free to share your pictures on here if you so wish.

Cheers,
Callum

[ejparrott]

I've got bits and pieces under my bench for one...

[peter99]

Many thanks for all your comments and opinions on the colours to paint the Y4. I have commenced spraying the frames satin black using a Halfords aerosol. More difficult than I thought, as the paint goes on thick where you don't want it and thin where you do! I am learning all the time! Anyway it looks quite nice and if all goes well, tomorrow I will set the wheel assemblies in the frame and take a pic.

However, I do have a problem with the boiler fit in the frame. The frame, smoke box and boiler are all as per the Blackwall drawings, but the boiler sits too low in the frames and fouls the rear horn blocks.
So I have got some repositioning of holes in the smoke box and a sorting out of its internal pipework to do! /
Oh well! All this extra work will keep me out of the pub!

[Deleted]

Dec 13, 2013 22:06:36 GMT peter99 said:

the paint goes on thick where you don't want it and thin where you do!

Try using an airbrush for the detailed areas, and build up the paint thickness slowly. Spraycans put too much paint on at once.

By the way, the GER seems to have painted its inside frames a cream colour - check out the NRM's J69 and E4.

[peter99]

You are quite right 'superseven' the aerosol is too much. I have a couple of airbrushes and they will be ideal
for going over.
Interesting that GER painted the inside frames cream, but I think I will have my Y4, when it is finished!!
in BR colours. Doug seems to suggest in his E in M, write-up vermilion for the inside frames, at least part of them.
Cheers!

[Callum Darraugh]

Hi all,

Quick update - My part built loco arrived on Tuesday but I've only had chance to look at it today. There are a couple of things missing on the frames, such as a notch for an oil pipe and a slot at the back of the frame. I am disappointed with the wheels, as the crankpin holes have been counterbored at the rear and they are totally off centre (I shall upload a picture). Although having checked sizes of everything else, it seems fine!





Callum

[Deleted]

Not quite sure what is wrong with the wheels. Mike Sharman's "wheel specifications for the modellers" shows the Y4 as having the crankpins in line (I/L) with the spokes.

Am I missing something ?

Regards

Jim

[Callum Darraugh]

Hi Jim,

The picture is looking at the wheel from the rear. The counterbore isn't exactly central to the hole itself! Looking at the drawings, I think the crankpin goes in from the rear and sits flush, so I will have to see what I can do with the c/bore.

Cheers
Callum

[ivanp]

Hi Callum

I will post a picture of my frames during the holiday then you can compare I am about the same stage

Ivan

[Deleted]

Hi matey !!--------- I'd suggest that counter-bore is for riveting the crankpin in place ?? so its' being slight off-set is nothing to be concerned about------- The actual pin's hole as such seems to be visually central with the boss........Your REAL concern should be to check that the THROW of each crank-pin is the same......

[Ruston92]

I agree with Hagley in that the counter bore is only for cold riveting the back of the crankpin round to hold it in place, so its being off centre isn't a big issue. Just slightly annoying.

Glad to see your back on with the project. It'll be a lovely loco when its done.

[Callum Darraugh]

Hi Hagley and Ruston,

Many thanks for that - If that is the case, they are all the same but it is frustrating that it isn't right. When they are on they aren't visible (If they are, there's something drastically wrong somewhere! )

Callum

[Deleted]

Dec 27, 2013 10:31:40 GMT Callum Darraugh said:

Hi Hagley and Ruston,

Many thanks for that - If that is the case, they are all the same but it is frustrating that it isn't right. When they are on they aren't visible (If they are, there's something drastically wrong somewhere! )

Callum

-------------- might be for the Irish Ballybunion railway, perchance ??
--------------- www.lartiguemonorail.com/ ----------------