LNER Y4 Build

[GWR 101]

Strange, you would think it's as easy to get it right as wrong. Assume its been a slot drill plunged in, lucky as it appears to have nearly broke through the edge on one side. Paul

[Deleted]

Dec 26, 2013 18:27:09 GMT Callum Darraugh said:

Hi Jim,

The picture is looking at the wheel from the rear. The counterbore isn't exactly central to the hole itself! Looking at the drawings, I think the crankpin goes in from the rear and sits flush, so I will have to see what I can do with the c/bore.

Cheers
Callum

OK Thanks I see your point now. If you do rivet the crankpin from the back it will be well fixed because of the eccentricity and will never revolve in the wheel.

Regards

Jim

[Ruston92]

Ahh good thinking Jim!

[jma1009]

dont forget that the driving axle wheel crankpins will need fitting on before the wheels are put on the axles as they need pinning from behind because of the return cranks fitted to same.
i was surprised no balance weights on the castings. a bit of araldite will hide the counterbores, not that you will see them anyway.
cheers,
julian

[jma1009]

hi callum,
when you pin the wheels to the axles, and the driving wheel crankpins to the wheels, make a cut with a triangular file in the steel first, as the drill will otherwise wander into the softer cast iron.
how's the water level in the river bettwyscoed way? very high here at the bottom of the garden in south wales!
cheers,
julian

[Callum Darraugh]

Thanks for that Julian. I've actually moved from Wales, I'm now living in sunny Scarborough!

Callum

[Deleted]

Now't wrong wi SCAR-boro, lad..appen !! Oliver's Mount for the bike racing----close to the NY Moors railway,---- easy access to the Harrogate show as well..The Transporter Bridge, etc------------- I've just talked myself into moving I suspect ??

[peter99]

The horns on my Y4 loco are drilled 8BA for lubricating the axles via presumably 3/32" dia copper pipes. This was to the Blackwall design.
I note that Doug is suggesting drill No. 50.
Either way, how is the copper pipe connected? The Blackwall drgs dont appear to say and Doug has'nt covered lubrication yet.
I would appreciate your advice.

[jma1009]

hi pete,
just press fit the pipes in the horns! how on earth do you thread 3/32" copper pipe 8BA?!! ridiculous!
cheers,
julian

[Deleted]

--------- carefully ??

[peter99]

Jan 16, 2014 23:15:45 GMT jma1009 said:

hi pete,
just press fit the pipes in the horns! how on earth do you thread 3/32" copper pipe 8BA?!! ridiculous!
cheers,
julian

Hi Julian,
Thanks, I will do a press fit. I was considering reducing the pipe size down and making  up some small fittings
to suit 8BA, how else to connect up to a tapped hole? (    
Got to resolve this as I have a prob with the boiler fouling the rear horns. (a previous post).
So am considering to m/c down the tops of the rear horns
and press-fit to an opened out 8BA hole. 
Cheers,
Peter

[peter99]

Referring to an old set of Blackwall drgs they show 1/16" pipes running straight into
the horn oil holes.
On the Blackwall write-up 3/32" pipes are shown running from the oil tank.

[peter99]

Thought I would relate another prob I have with fitting the boiler to my Y4.
The drawings/write-up (so far) do not give the relationship of the boiler to the frame/smoke box.
e.g. how far into the smoke box does the barrel of the boiler be inserted? 1/4" 3/8" 1/2"?
This might seem of little consequence but I have a set of Doug's laser cut brass work,
tanks and cabin etc, and if the boiler is positioned incorrectly I am sure the brass work will not fit without a bodg.
So after sorting out the oil pipes I feel it best to complete the tanks and cabin which will determine
the position of the boiler and thereby the lagging and the reversing linkage could be accurately sorted.
I have completed one tank and there appears little room between the boiler and tank for lagging and linkage to the hand lever.
It is interesting that neither lagging and r/l linkage are mentioned in the drawings, in my possession, or write-ups to-date.
Yes! The Y4 'words and music' did need a going over. I have two sets of Y4 drgs issued at different times, some years ago and as an ex draughtsman, they are
a bit of a 'dogs dinner'!

[peter99]

Have now moved on to soldering up the left side tank, the most diff of the two to rivet up etc, as it has an angled coal slide.
Am certainly pleased I have Doug's set of laser cut brass work, as without it, it would have been quite a slog! The brass work is not tabbed & slotted as I have seen
some loco tenders but none the less with 1/4" x 1/4" brass angle (about 4/5 feet) 1/16" br rivets and 10BA br csk screws, it all goes together quite well.
Always thought I was a dab hand at soldering, hard & soft, but the tanks to get watertight is not easy, but I learnt a lot after the first RH tank!
I much prefer lathe & mill work but the tanks have been interesting and have taken a deal longer than I thought and I still have the cab to do!
I'm just so glad I did'nt have to hack saw out the plate work! OMG! I guess I'm getting lazy!

[Deleted]

PETER--------no, not lazy at all....it's called "Productive"...and helps get your loco back into traffic that much sooner..

[peter99]

Safety Valves.
The valve options shown on my drgs (old) are DIY or to buy out. e.g. Ross pop type 1/2" x 26.
Blackgates cat shows two types with this thread size. A)Tall type for simplex, sweet pea etc.
Alt. b) an Express type.
Which would you recommend for the Y4? a) or B)?
With my boiler and drgs with boss threads of 7/16" x 32, I will have to tap out.

[dscott]

Doug has done a re design of the 57XX pannier tank and it shows that this was needed as there was quite a lot of errors from the full size on Pansy! Cost much higher but the saving in time and frustration is so worth it.
I am going over the large prairie looking at which parts could be speeded up using modern methods of manufacture, Malcolm has many parts I hacked out by hand...no wonder I am still skinny at 54!!!
David.

[Deleted]

Mar 6, 2014 12:37:32 GMT peter99 said:

Safety Valves.
The valve options shown on my drgs (old) are DIY or to buy out. e.g. Ross pop type 1/2" x 26.
Blackgates cat shows two types with this thread size. A)Tall type for simplex, sweet pea etc.
Alt. b) an Express type.
Which would you recommend for the Y4? a) or B)?
With my boiler and drgs with boss threads of 7/16" x 32, I will have to tap out.

Hi Pete

Looking at a few pictures of Y4's online I would suspect that A ( tall) would be the correct shape although I'm no expert on this class of loco so others may have a different opinion, as the description says B is really for Express locomotives...btw I have B types on 4470. One thing to note sizes seem to vary between suppliers.. I've had both blackgates and Polly, both express type but they were different sizes... can't remember which one was bigger now but they are noticeable if placed together.

Regards

Pete

[peter99]

Hi Pete
Sure you are right, a) it must be. The Express type would most likely be for running at a higher steam pressure.
Have sent off for some up-to-date drawings covering this and other parts yet to be completed.
Best to build-in the latest thinking!

[Deleted]

Hey Peter99,
I think the difference between normal and express valves is a whole lot simpler than different pressures. Express engines have bigger boilers and therefore there is less room on top of them for safety valves before being out of gauge, therefore express safety valves are shorter.
Cheers
Ben